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changing my own tires 2010 R1200RT

oldsnort

New member
I would like to start changing my own tires on my 2010 r1200rt. Is there anyconcerns or worries about the tire pressure sensor in the wheels? I don't want to damage them. Is the Harbour Freight portable tire changer ok?

Thanks Ron
 
I can't speak to the pressure sensor, but I used to own a HF tire changer and it was a POS. You get what you get for 100 bucks I would say. I know of some people that have used them and they got the job done, but I didn't like it.

I am going to use the method the guy in the video below used, and balance the with Dynabeads. I have used them in the past and they worked perfectly.

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anyY0UO5gqk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my iPad
 
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I have a Harbor Freight changer and it gets the job done. If you want something better, look at Nomar. I have the Nomar bar, tire lube, and other tools and they are first rate. I use the Marc Parnes static balancer. Works very well.

If you get a Nomar with all the tools, you will have a lot of new friends!
 
I used dyna beads on my Michelin Pilot 3 front tire after realizing my wheel weights fell off. The tire has not shown any irregular wear in 6000 miles of riding. Also, as long as you ride smooth, the beads work great. They say they don't work good for racing.
 
I don't know what your abilities/skill level are, but I use tire irons to change the tires on my R1150 GS Adventure that has anodized rims...and we all know how easy it is to scratch those....which is why I change my own tires.

I use 2"x 5" strips of plastic cut out from windshield bottle (or similar) material. Those strips get placed between the tire iron and rim.

I haven't marked a rim...ever.
 
There is plenty of clearance to work around the TPMS inside the wheels, provided you know where it is and work around it so as to not to try to put the tire bead and TPMS in the same place at the same time. It is all technique.
 
changing my own tires

thanks to everyone for the help. I'll just find where the sensor is and be careful.

Ron
 
Look up the Scudman tire changing videos on YouTube -- hands down, the best I've seen.
 
Modified HF Changer:)

I am a welder and took the HF Tools Tire machine and made it work better! Cheap is right, as the HF Tire changer is indeed not the end all as it comes. BUT, with some talent, one still gets a great alternative to shop rates for tires on/off and a stiffened/welded HF tire changer works quite well, bolted to floor too. Use your imagination. I saved a LOT and still do my own, about 20+ tires now on the HF Tool. Randy
 
I am a welder and took the HF Tools Tire machine and made it work better! Cheap is right, as the HF Tire changer is indeed not the end all as it comes. BUT, with some talent, one still gets a great alternative to shop rates for tires on/off and a stiffened/welded HF tire changer works quite well, bolted to floor too. Use your imagination. I saved a LOT and still do my own, about 20+ tires now on the HF Tool. Randy

I've been using the top of a large trash can with lid as a working surface. Much easier with a helper. A buddy has the HF changer and like you, did some welding on it to make it better.
 
I would like to start changing my own tires on my 2010 r1200rt. Is there anyconcerns or worries about the tire pressure sensor in the wheels? I don't want to damage them. Is the Harbour Freight portable tire changer ok?

Thanks Ron

Not sure where your located Ron but if near central IL I have lift and nomar.
 
Well I tried!

Tpm wheels aren't bad but "plan" you work such that the toms are in the area where the beads aren't under stress. On my nomar I keep them near my right knee and I start the tool near my left knee working counterclockwise
 
Unlike the video link in this post, no reason to remove your rotor for a tire change. The last time I checked, those bolts technically are a one time use bolt and are expensive. By the time you do two tires, you could have bought a HF stand which works just fine. It takes a bit of effort, but it works fine. A search here or on other forums will show you some of the modifications people have done, particularly to the rim locks or part that holds the rim so they won't get scratched. The HF stand with the nomar bar etc is a great package. Parnes static balancer works great and for weights check your local hobby shop. Model trains use lead weights and they are cheap and can be cut if you need an odd size. They can also be removed, cleaned and reused with new tape.

There is also a method of mounting tires using tie down straps and no stand or mounting equipment. I have yet to use the method, but my brother has and said it works really well. Think this is the link.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597
 
Unlike the video link in this post, no reason to remove your rotor for a tire change. The last time I checked, those bolts technically are a one time use bolt and are expensive. By the time you do two tires, you could have bought a HF stand which works just fine. It takes a bit of effort, but it works fine. A search here or on other forums will show you some of the modifications people have done, particularly to the rim locks or part that holds the rim so they won't get scratched. The HF stand with the nomar bar etc is a great package. Parnes static balancer works great and for weights check your local hobby shop. Model trains use lead weights and they are cheap and can be cut if you need an odd size. They can also be removed, cleaned and reused with new tape.[/url]

Many thanks for the heads up on this!

I'm looking to save myself from misdirection and for any short cuts possible, as my right arm is pretty much useless after a severe wreck causing nerve injury, and this is one of my first attempts at possibly a physically demanding mechanics job with one arm.

There is also a method of mounting tires using tie down straps and no stand or mounting equipment. I have yet to use the method, but my brother has and said it works really well. Think this is the link.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597

Brilliant method here. Great post. Thanks again!

CLJ
 
My first attempt to change the rear tire on my 2010 R1200RT using Cycle Hill Tire changer. Technique is crucial due to the low drop center of the rim and very stiff sidewall. My previous tire changes were with my 2007 Suzuki Burgman 400, which is substantially easier. I install Michelin Pilot Road 4 tire.

I followed all the techniques in this video from No-Mar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egZFAxZSIR8
 
This is what I do:

I simply take the two wheels off the bike, and bring them to my corner garage.

The mechanic remove the old tires, mounts my two new tires on the wheels and balances the rear (It fits on a regular car tire changer) and charges me $20

I invested in a Marc Parnes wheel balancer and balance the front wheel myself when I get home and reinstall the wheels.
For me, Investing in the purchase of a tire changer, plus the effort to do the job is not worth it at that cost.

YMMV
 
I guess your lucky. Around here shops don't want to change/mount tires they don't sell. Some take the suggestion down right personal. Some say sure and charge as much as you would have paid buying the tire from the shop.
I did 13 tries of various sizes here last year........Some bruised knuckles, some swearing but no BS from someone who can't simply do the job and take the money. :dunno
OM
 
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