Hall effect sensor replacement question

I was reading through the BMW manual for replacement of the Hall Effect sensor and was wondering what the locking device below refers to. Can I short cut and make my own? Where exactly does it go? Also what flavor loctite is to be used for the adhesive noted in bold and underlined below?





ÔÇó Remove the starter motor.
ÔÇó Install locking device, BMW No. 11 5 640, to
lock clutch housing.
ÔÇó Remove poly-V belt pulley (3) with rotor gate from
crankshaft.
ÔÇó Disconnect plug of magnetic gate.
L Note:
If necessary, mark position of magnetic gate for reinstallation.
ÔÇó Remove magnetic gate (4).
ÔÇó Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
ÔÇó Locate rotor (5) of Hall-effect gate
on poly-V belt pulley (3) with adhesive.
Adhesive: .....Loctite instant adhesive or equivalent
e Attention:
Seat retainer (6) for Hall-effect gate rotor in groove
in crankshaft (7).
Carefully route cable for magnetic gate.
ÔÇó Tension poly-V belt in accordance with the adjusting
procedure (a12.7).

There is a hole in the front of the tranmission housing on the left, above the starter, into which you insert a rod when the engine is at TDC to lock the flywheel/clutch carrier against rotation.

Sorry, can't remember the dimensions (someone will be along shortly to add the detail ).

On the Locktite, unless the rotor has separated from the pulley, you don't need it -- the sensor plate and its wiring harness is the only component replaced in the typical HES R&R.

OLSENSAN said:

I was reading through the BMW manual for replacement of the Hall Effect sensor and was wondering what the locking device below refers to. Can I short cut and make my own? Where exactly does it go? Also what flavor loctite is to be used for the adhesive noted in bold and underlined below?





• Remove the starter motor.
• Install locking device, BMW No. 11 5 640, to
lock clutch housing.
• Remove poly-V belt pulley (3) with rotor gate from
crankshaft.
• Disconnect plug of magnetic gate.
L Note:
If necessary, mark position of magnetic gate for reinstallation.
• Remove magnetic gate (4).
• Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
• Locate rotor (5) of Hall-effect gate
on poly-V belt pulley (3) with adhesive.
Adhesive: .....Loctite instant adhesive or equivalent
e Attention:
Seat retainer (6) for Hall-effect gate rotor in groove
in crankshaft (7).
Carefully route cable for magnetic gate.
• Tension poly-V belt in accordance with the adjusting
procedure (a12.7).

Click to expand...

The locking device is a mandrel tool used for keeping the engine locked at TDC while you torque the pulley back on. Remembering to remove it before you crank the engine is REALLY important!!!

Here is a link from the ADV site on how to make one by Dana Hager: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_tdc_mandrel.pdf

Being too lazy to go to the hardware store and hunt, I found some threaded stock the right size in the shed, put it in a vise and heated it up real good with a plumbing torch and just bent it 90 degrees. A bit of filing to fix up the end and presto. I've got a long streamer of dayglo yellow tape on the end to remind me to pull the thing out when done now just in case!

I am an expert

The following advice stems from my extensive problem with this issue.

The HES is no big deal. I used a large flat screwdriver to hold the flywheel and forget about removing the starter.

1. Remove the tupperware.

2. Loosen the gas tank and set it back. There is no need to completely remove it; just set it back far enough to access the HES plug that goes into the wiring harness.

3. Remove the bracket that holds the left side tupperware on [located just above the exhaust header].

4. Remove the alternator cover.

5. Loosen the three nuts that hold the alternator and let the alternator fall into its lowest position.

6. Remove the front pulley from the crank and the rib-V belt.

The pulley will likely fall off in 2 pieces. IGNORE the BMW instructions. These two pieces should be permanently melded to one another. I used the recommended adhesive the first time and it failed. Once I put them together with JB Weld, I had no more issues.

7. Unscrew the 3 small screws that hold the HES on.

8. Raise the alternator as high as it will go and stick a p[iece of wood in to hold it up. You will need the clearance to get the HES plug under and around it and to put the new one in.

9. Use blue loctite on the pulley bolt. Don't even THINK about ignoring this step.

Put it all back together and don't be afraid of using too much hand strength to torque that pulley bolt.

locking tool

Go to the hardware place and get a 5/16 u bolt with about a 3 inch width. Cut one leg off above the bend so you have an l-shaped remainder. Stick the smooth part into the locking hole.
To make it more professional looking, tape a piece of ribbon about 10 yards long to the threaded end so you don't accidentally leave it stuck in the locking hole. Some people say you have to have a little bevel on the end., but I don't.

I use my 6mm allen wrench as a locking tool.

With Paul on this one and ANYTHING he says. I to uesd a 6mm with a extended lenth. ((((DON'T FORGET TO TAKE IT OUT)))) not that I have ever done that just saying

You guys are why I keep coming back and why this bike purrrs. Thanks again!

JDOCKERY132445 said:

The following advice stems from my extensive problem with this issue.

The pulley will likely fall off in 2 pieces. IGNORE the BMW instructions. These two pieces should be permanently melded to one another. I used the recommended adhesive the first time and it failed. Once I put them together with JB Weld, I had no more issues.


9. Use blue loctite on the pulley bolt. Don't even THINK about ignoring this step.

Click to expand...

I've done this job three times now and I've never glued the pulley and hall effect gate together and never had a problem. Seems to me that the 50nm of torque required for the bolt that holds it to the cranakshaft will make sure those two items are locked together. The BMW factory manual does say you should use adhesive though.

As for blue loctite on the pulley / crankshaft bolt, the manual does not call for loctite at all.

Wondering why you put loctite on there. Did you have a problem with the pulley coming loose or ???

Yes

Happy Wanderer said:

As for blue loctite on the pulley / crankshaft bolt, the manual does not call for loctite at all.

Wondering why you put loctite on there. Did you have a problem with the pulley coming loose or ???

Click to expand...

Yes. Not just once either. The first time it was because of EXTREME heat from filling up with fuel that had a very high alcohol content and caused the engine to run so hot that it blistered the fairing around the exhaust. I put it back together according to the manual and used the metal adhesive on the pulley because it came off in two pieces. The second time, I used loctite on the bolt. Taking tupperware off on the side of the road in 95 degree weather in the rain is not a task I wish to repeat.

How many carry a Hall unit with you on long trips?

kantuckid said:

How many carry a Hall unit with you on long trips?

Click to expand...

Have before, depends on where/what bikes we ride and who's riding with us. All our Oilheads have fairly new units in them now.

Same goes for stick coils, fuel QC's, clutch slave cylinder & EWS ring(not oilheads) among others...figure if you carry it, the chances go down on needing it

JDOCKERY132445 said:

Yes. Not just once either. The first time it was because of EXTREME heat from filling up with fuel that had a very high alcohol content and caused the engine to run so hot that it blistered the fairing around the exhaust. I put it back together according to the manual and used the metal adhesive on the pulley because it came off in two pieces. The second time, I used loctite on the bolt. Taking tupperware off on the side of the road in 95 degree weather in the rain is not a task I wish to repeat.

Click to expand...

The 3 pulley/HES gate assemblies I have removed ALL came apart in two pieces. None of them had any adhesive holding them together which is why I have to wonder why it says to glue them together in the BMW manual. I also wonder why they did not just spot weld them together in the first place.

One of those things that make ya go hmmm...?

kantuckid said:

How many carry a Hall unit with you on long trips?

Click to expand...

I replaced mine on my current RT recently before the original one failed. The original has around 20K miles on it but I know it still works so I carry it on the bike. The re-wired one installed currently has run fine for a few thousand miles now so I probably will never need the spare but as Henzilla said, parts you carry on the bike never seem to fail!