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Dreaded oil thread. So sue me...

BC1100S

Left Coast Rider
:) Apologies in advance for the subject.

Buddy of mine just bought an R1200S. What oil grade should he be using? Synthetic Mobil 1 15W-50 (car oil) ok?
 
Dreaded oil thread. So sue me...

Tell you what. Save yourself some money.

Send everyone on the forum a $5 bill and save yourself some attorney fees.
 
No, Mobil 1 15W50 is not a suitable "long term" oil for a motorcycle. Note I said long term. For one oil change cycle, or to get the bike home on a trip, fine. But for extended miles and use a motorcycle specific oil is the better choice. These engines still need the benefit of ZDDP and similar additives that are now only common to motorcycle specific oils and some brands of "racing" oils.

I used to use Mobil 1 automotive oil. That is until I found out the formulation changed and the ZDDP additives were replaced. I now use Valvoline Full Synthetic 20W50 Racing oil which does contain high amounts of ZDDP. Oh, and my bike now has 168,000 trouble free miles on it, so the right oils may have some impact on that.

There, oil thread started, jump on everyone!
 
No, Mobil 1 15W50 is not a suitable "long term" oil for a motorcycle. Note I said long term. For one oil change cycle, or to get the bike home on a trip, fine. But for extended miles and use a motorcycle specific oil is the better choice. These engines still need the benefit of ZDDP and similar additives that are now only common to motorcycle specific oils and some brands of "racing" oils.

I used to use Mobil 1 automotive oil. That is until I found out the formulation changed and the ZDDP additives were replaced. I now use Valvoline Full Synthetic 20W50 Racing oil which does contain high amounts of ZDDP. Oh, and my bike now has 168,000 trouble free miles on it, so the right oils may have some impact on that.

There, oil thread started, jump on everyone!

Thank you, Andy. When was the formulation for Mobil 1 15w-50 changed? I've been using it for years with excellent results. I suspect this is a recent change?

And to everyone else, no owner's manual. Please send me your addresses so I can put $5 in the mail for you. :D
 
Thank you, Andy. When was the formulation for Mobil 1 15w-50 changed? I've been using it for years with excellent results. I suspect this is a recent change?

And to everyone else, no owner's manual. Please send me your addresses so I can put $5 in the mail for you. :D

I understood that the zinc additive was reduced for the lighter weight oils, like for water cooled engines, but was optional for the heavier weights since they are not used in the larger fleet of cars.
 
Mobil 1 not a recent change

I used to work with a guy who changed jobs from Mobil fuels to lubricants about 10+ years ago. I asked him if there was any real difference and he sent a lot of information, but bottom line is car oil was different from motorcycle oil. This was when Mobil first started making the MC oil. Probably 10-15 yrs ago.
 
I used to work with a guy who changed jobs from Mobil fuels to lubricants about 10+ years ago. I asked him if there was any real difference and he sent a lot of information, but bottom line is car oil was different from motorcycle oil. This was when Mobil first started making the MC oil. Probably 10-15 yrs ago.

It needs to be different when the transmission runs in same oil as the motor.

Otherwise it does not need to be different.

This describes all boxers and most K-bikes.

ZDDP is bunk.
 
Am I reading this correctly that this would be SF or better, which is automotive oil pretty much.

Since dry clutch, no need to use MC specific oil?

Actually, back when a whole bunch of oils were tested independently, BMW (Spectrol) oil tested very well. Mobil 1 was ok, but not at the top anti wear wise. I don't think any premium oil will be noticeably bad for these engines. I, however, will continue to use oil specified (JASO-MA) for wet clutch engines in the wet clutch engines.
 
It needs to be different when the transmission runs in same oil as the motor.

Otherwise it does not need to be different.

This describes all boxers and most K-bikes.

I'll jump on with Ikchris here...if you're not running a wet clutch/gear box lubed with engine oil, why do we need a MC oil??

I selelected my oil (Brad Penn Green Racing Oil BTW) based on how it works for my engine (airhead in my case). Unlike a UJM, our BMWs are an engine that happens to have a two wheeled mount. The additives to make a Honda happy aren't relevant.


(I am a follower of the ZDDP cult though:stick)
 
Not sure that Paul Glaves will join yet another oil tirade, but I'm sure he'd disagree with these comments:

"Otherwise it [motorcycle oil] does not need to be different. This describes all boxers and most K-bikes. ZDDP is bunk."

What sets bike engines apart from car engines, regardless of the clutch issues, is that cycle engines are much more heavily loaded per cc or cubic inch size than car engines, they run at higher operating temperatures, and most all cycle engines spin their major rotating parts on plain aluminum journals, no where near as many roller or ball bearings as are common in car engines. Steel crankshafts and steel camshafts rotate on a very thin film of oil between the steel and aluminum plain journal bearings. ZDDP is critical in these areas.

Like I said, short term, in a pinch, use whatever oil you can get. But for long term life I would not suffer the consequences of a poor oil choice for my BMW.
 
Am I reading this correctly that this would be SF or better, which is automotive oil pretty much.

Since dry clutch, no need to use MC specific oil?

apprently, in your R1200, that would be correct. however, i would still prefer to use a m/c specific synth or semi-synth oil, especially in an air or air-oil cooled motor to better manage heat breakdown.

in your airhead, not at all correct. that one requires API SE to SG, 20W50 in common operating temps (down to about 15F, upwards of 100 F).

as always, you may choose to disagree (but you won't have a really good reason for doing so) :nyah.
 
ZDDP is necessary in most all BMW m/cycles due to their flat tappet design. this is unlike most modern automotive engines that have roller tappets so do not need the scuff protection of ZDDP.
 
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