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Thread: cracked the footrest plate, 2000 R1100RT questions

  1. #1

    cracked the footrest plate, 2000 R1100RT questions

    I dropped my new (to me) 2000 R1100RT and put a crack in the right side footrest plate. Is this something that is okay to be repaired with JB Weld, or similar product, or should the plate be replaced. I can find the piece on eBay for around $100 but none are from the 2000 model year. Do any of you know if this part is interchangeable between the 2000 - 2004 models?
    Thanks in advance for your input.
    John in Western NCfootrest plate.jpg
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    Last edited by uffdakid; 01-02-2018 at 01:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    John -

    Welcome to the forum! I'm not familiar with exactly how this ties into the bike/frame, but I'm thinking that JBWeld wouldn't be strong enough. I suspect it's an aluminum part, so aluminum welding would likely be the best approach.

    Is it part #1 in this picture:

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=46_0307

    Taking the part number 46712314968 and doing a part search on that seems to indicate that it's the same part 1994-2001. It would be good to confirm this from other Oilhead owners. Also have a look at some of the threads in the Similar Thread pane below...there might be some additional ideas there.
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  3. #3
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    If you don't know a welder that can do aluminum I would replace it.
    I checked Beemerboneyard and they don't have one. Your ebay price sounds good.
    If you have it welded you can repaint it using Wurth Silver Wheel Paint.
    https://www.autogeek.net/wurth-silver-paint.html

    Welcome to the forum.
    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    John -

    Welcome to the forum! I'm not familiar with exactly how this ties into the bike/frame, but I'm thinking that JBWeld wouldn't be strong enough. I suspect it's an aluminum part, so aluminum welding would likely be the best approach.

    Is it part #1 in this picture:

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=46_0307

    Taking the part number 46712314968 and doing a part search on that seems to indicate that it's the same part 1994-2001. It would be good to confirm this from other Oilhead owners. Also have a look at some of the threads in the Similar Thread pane below...there might be some additional ideas there.
    That is the part number I'm looking at and it is aluminum. I'll be doing some more research and checking out a new metal fabricator that opened up a shop in town to see if he welds aluminum.
    Thanks for the info.
    Peace
    john

  5. #5
    Registered User K7GLE's Avatar
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    Same thing happened to me...same bike, same year. My hotshot welder said he would probably only ruin it so chose not to try. I drilled a small hole at the very end of the crack, to keep it from propagating. That's worked for the past year. I also never have a passenger, so there isn't any ongoing stress on it.
    - Glenn
    2000 R1100RT (current)
    1982 R100RT (traded)
    1970 BSA A65T, 1969 Honda CB350, 1967 Honda CB160 all fondly remembered

  6. #6
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum!

    The part is for 1100RT's 46 71 2 314 968 http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...02%20314%20968 The 1150's are different

    My local welder has done a few similar repairs for me with good success. I take it to a recommended welder and get their opinion.
    Have them do it from behind and Krylon Aluminum paint is a close match

    I could not help but notice that you still have the stock rubber brake lines. This vintage is prone to catastrophic failure as well as damaging the ABS system with stray rubber bits internally. Also known to block fluid returning from the caliper(s)
    Change them out to Braided SS teflon ones - a great winter project.
    Spiegler brand is what I prefer. https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake...ne-kit-151.htm
    Be sure to let them know if you have barbacks or risers so they can lengthen the front master line accordingly.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  7. #7
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    Tip a 1100 over on the right side, and it will almost always crack the right plate. The most common place for them to crack is at the rear of the plate where the saddle bag attaches to the plate. Your crack is the second most common place to crack. If you look on ebay, the left side is dirt cheap, while the right side is expensive. The right side plates are in high demand. The problem is caused from the right side plate not being properly engineered. It is too weak. I used epoxy with an aluminum screening pushed into the epoxy to strengthen mine. As long as the crack isn't where the plate/bolt attaches to the bike, you should be okay. But, you'll have to decide whether to fix it, or replace it.

  8. #8
    Thank you for all the responses. I got a replacement plate but will repair and keep the original around, just i case.... Thanks for the brake line tip GSAddict I will be looking into changing them out.
    John

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