Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Anybody using Race Tech front suspension for a /5?

  1. #1
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    35

    Anybody using Race Tech front suspension for a /5?

    I'm rebuilding a /5 and plan on keeping the original forks and brakes.


    I'm looking for a basic weekend canyon road and city performance. Nothing too aggressive. I'd love to handle bumps without snapping my forearms and have a nice response when cruising in the twisties.

    Has anybody installed the Race Tech kit in the front springs?

    I love the idea of a better fork response that Race Tech supposedly offers.
    When i look up their spring guide, it says the stock BMW springs are .300 kg/mm.
    And it recommends a spring that is .834 kg/mm.
    What does that mean? The springs are going to be stiffer?

    I am also concerned about the Cartridge emulator kit. Does it require cutting the top of the dampening rod?
    Or do those cartridges and emulator adapters install without any modifications?

    Thanks in advance.

    -josh

  2. #2
    Registered User stanley83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Somerville, MA
    Posts
    270

    Yes

    Has anybody installed the Race Tech kit in the front springs?
    I installed some on my R75/6. According to the fiche, the forks innards look to be the same as the /5. I don't know if my front springs were original as they look like they're progressive. I did the front end and replaced the worn out rear shocks at the same time, about three years ago, and it's hard to remember if the front end is stiffer now. I do know that the bike sits higher unladen and is no longer in danger of blowing over while on the side stand.

    I am also concerned about the Cartridge emulator kit. Does it require cutting the top of the dampening rod?
    Or do those cartridges and emulator adapters install without any modifications
    Yes, the dampening rod must be modified by drilling out the bottom holes to a larger size and either cut off the top or enlarge the top holes as well.
    Justin in Somerville, MA
    _________________________
    76 R75/6, 78 P200E, 63 VBB
    Lots of bicycles

  3. #3
    I did it for my R90S and love the results. I found the spring recommendation from RaceTech to be dead on, but then I prefer a sportier front end. Stock springs on the /6 and /7's I've had were much too soft. You could probably choose a spring rate between the stock and RT's recommendation and be happy.

    Do a search using my name and Gold Valve for the 'how to' post I put up.
    '61 Clubman's Gold Star, '13 690 Duke, '13 Daytona 675R, '17 1290 GT, '18 Street Triple RS (gone but not forgotten: '76 R75/6, '84 R100, '76 R90S)

  4. #4
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    35
    Thanks guys. Drilling the cutting the dampening rod has me a bit scared. But i think i have a spare set just in case.

    I may go for it and purchase the Race Tech and rely on you guys when i get around to the install. I'm sure i will have questions.

    For example, is there a PVC at the top of the springs as well? (like when installing progressive springs, they say to put a piece of PVC about a .5 to 1 inch on top of the springs under the upper fork nut)

    And you said the ride is sporty...
    I'm don't want anything to aggressive. I would like something more 'modern' feeling so the ride isn't harsh over bumps and the bike glides into turns when out joy riding.

    The bike will be a stripped down cafe style bike. No Bags. no passengers. Just a weekend cruiser.

    Thanks.
    -josh

  5. #5
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    35
    Another question... I assume all the stock fork seals and gaskets remain the same?
    I'll need a rebuild kit when i rebuild these forks.

    It appears that is actually the top of the piston that gets cut... not the rod itself. Is that correct?

  6. #6
    Registered User stanley83's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Somerville, MA
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by j_withers View Post
    For example, is there a PVC at the top of the springs as well? (like when installing progressive springs, they say to put a piece of PVC about a .5 to 1 inch on top of the springs under the upper fork nut)
    Yes, the provide a length of PVC and you need to cut 4 pieces, 2 that sit between the top of the damper rods and two for the top of the spring.

    Quote Originally Posted by j_withers View Post
    Another question... I assume all the stock fork seals and gaskets remain the same?
    I'll need a rebuild kit when i rebuild these forks.
    Stock seals and gaskets.

    Quote Originally Posted by j_withers View Post
    It appears that is actually the top of the piston that gets cut... not the rod itself. Is that correct?
    Correct.
    Justin in Somerville, MA
    _________________________
    76 R75/6, 78 P200E, 63 VBB
    Lots of bicycles

  7. #7
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    35
    Hey Fellas,

    I am finally starting to build my forks.

    I drilled out the bottom holes of the dampener rod to 1/4"
    I drilled out a hole in the top of the pistons.

    I assume you leave the holes at the top of the dampener rod (up near the piston) alone?

    And it looks like each fork leg requires a 35-40mm PVC spacer at the bottom and a .5 to 1 inch spacer at the top. I'd assume that a bit more then a half an inch would effect the handling as well.
    smaller = not as stiff ?
    larger = stiffer ?

    I am running the Race Tech springs.

    Thanks

    -Josh
    Last edited by j_withers; 06-13-2012 at 04:36 AM. Reason: re-write

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •