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Rear Main Seal replacement Tips

jimv

New member
Doing an engine re-seal on my 95R100RT and got it down to the rear main seal and having a problem getting it out. Drilling a hole at 9 oclock, screwed in sheet metal screw and using claw hammer, tried several times, it distorted, started to move but then tore the screw out! All service manuals say pry it out, but not how. Before drilling another hole or two, any tips or hints would be appreciated and thanks in advance. JV
 
I tried the sheet metal screw approach to get out the input seal to my transmission...I pretty much had the same thing happen to me. I took the tranny up to BMW and they pulled it in less than 30 seconds. The tech used a hammer of sorts...it had a very sharp point on one end which he hooked into the hole I had already made. Then, like a hammer, he levered it back enough to further distort the seal and then it came out easily. Google "seal puller" and you'll see it...I need to add one of these to my tool box.
 
I did this yesterday.

Use a medium flat blade screwdriver and put the blade of the screwdriver on a 45 degree angle at the top of the seal and hit it with a plastic or dead blow hammer.
Do not touch the edge of the crankcase.

a few well placed hits and it will pop out or can be pried out.

BE CAREFUL!!!!
 
Be VERY careful not to push on the back end of the crankshaft while doing this job! If you push the front crankshaft shim off its locating pins, it WILL fall down onto the crankshaft stub, and you'll get to pull the crankshaft out to put it back where it belongs. Hopefully you put something at the other end to prevent this before you took off the clutch carrier- Don't let the crankshaft move forward!
 
Thanks guys, I first got some PB blaster around the seal and let that sit for a day. I then bought a puller from autozone and ground most of the top down so that it would by-pass the crank and after a couple of pulls, it came right out! And yes, saw many warnings about blocking the front crank and Ive measured the crank in relation to the back of the block several times now and it has not moved! Now once the parts get here, hopefully the back half will be done by this wknd.
 
You are likely well researched and all over this.....


As long as you're in there, be sure to change the oil pump cover oring as well.
That cover has been the real source of the leak when I went in to change the rear main seal.
 
Actually, the O ring cover for the oil pump WAS the culprit of the oil leak and not the rear main, but while I was there, did both! The rear main had very little oil at 6 o'clock position so better safe then sorry.
 
Actually, the O ring cover for the oil pump WAS the culprit of the oil leak

When I last put that cover on I added some DreiBond (aka Three bond) to the sealing surfaces to hopefully keep things dry a bit longer...
 
would love to answer this, but I keep getting in trouble, just ask my wife :)
so, here goes............who cares.............
seal it with honda 3bond, and of course the correct o- ring
ok flame on, tell me how im wrong
no leaks on any of my oil pumps yet
flame on
 
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