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Pictorial--2002 1150RT Spline lube
- Thread starter Olsensan
- Start date
Olsensan
New member
Once you have cleaned the old grease etc from the splines and clutch hub, you will want to use Honda Moly 60 Paste or GD 525 Moly Grease available at Beemer Boneyard. Both are recommended for this job and you should only apply it lightly to the splines. I used a tooth brush and did not cake it on, just a thin layer.
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Last edited:
Olsensan
New member
To finalize, I want to say that aside from replacing the clutch slave cylinder and gasket, I also replaced the seal. In my case it was a little more difficult than others since it appeared that sealant was used. By using the other links and info, you'll find that by drilling a hole in the seal and screwing in a screw, it can be pulled right out. I knocked one side in a bit and than yanked it out.
On reassembly, concerning the air box, don't forget what I said in post #28. You'll be a happier man.
If you replace the clutch slave cylinder, you will need to replace the dot 4 fluid in that circuit. I went to the CVS pharmacy and bought a 600 cc syringe and used that to push the fluid up to the reservoir from the bleeder valve with rubber tubing One thing worth mentioning is that once the splines are lubed up and fluid and slave is replaced, you will notice a definite improvement on how the clutch lever feels. I thought something was wrong, it feels very new so to speak. Almost too easy to pull in.
The other thing worth mentioning is the gear shift indicator wire. Once you have fished that out run it along the wire harness and secure it where it was. I found some tech info on this type of connector. Go to this link and go down to page 10. There is a description how you can unlock the pins and remove the connector shell to fish this wire through the impossible space.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/wiring_pdfs/deutsch_dtm_connectors.pdf
Instead of using red loctite as recommended by BMW, I used the medium blue which will provide the same result with less chance of destroying threads, but it still remains your choice.
This document is far from complete for this job and the links provided will aid you greatly. I hope I have helped anyone performing this job as the info and help from other members here has done for me, this was my opportunity to give something back; I am grateful to be able to do this here for you. Thanks! -Greg O
On reassembly, concerning the air box, don't forget what I said in post #28. You'll be a happier man.
If you replace the clutch slave cylinder, you will need to replace the dot 4 fluid in that circuit. I went to the CVS pharmacy and bought a 600 cc syringe and used that to push the fluid up to the reservoir from the bleeder valve with rubber tubing One thing worth mentioning is that once the splines are lubed up and fluid and slave is replaced, you will notice a definite improvement on how the clutch lever feels. I thought something was wrong, it feels very new so to speak. Almost too easy to pull in.
The other thing worth mentioning is the gear shift indicator wire. Once you have fished that out run it along the wire harness and secure it where it was. I found some tech info on this type of connector. Go to this link and go down to page 10. There is a description how you can unlock the pins and remove the connector shell to fish this wire through the impossible space.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/wiring_pdfs/deutsch_dtm_connectors.pdf
Instead of using red loctite as recommended by BMW, I used the medium blue which will provide the same result with less chance of destroying threads, but it still remains your choice.
This document is far from complete for this job and the links provided will aid you greatly. I hope I have helped anyone performing this job as the info and help from other members here has done for me, this was my opportunity to give something back; I am grateful to be able to do this here for you. Thanks! -Greg O
Last edited:
twinsig
New member
questions
Preparing for my maiden clutch voyage, wondering if i MUST completely remove the clutch disk to get it clean, etc...? I'm not at all worried about wear/cant really afford the parts & just trying to keep it alive at lowest cost.
I will be replacing some seals though. Not for the eng unless theyre leaking.
Also, how long do the "home-made" trans alignment tools need to be?
Preparing for my maiden clutch voyage, wondering if i MUST completely remove the clutch disk to get it clean, etc...? I'm not at all worried about wear/cant really afford the parts & just trying to keep it alive at lowest cost.
I will be replacing some seals though. Not for the eng unless theyre leaking.
Also, how long do the "home-made" trans alignment tools need to be?
