R1200RT Tire pressure

[ezec]

To make things easier on me I have taken a magic marker and written the pressure ranges on the wheel next to valve stim


Sweet idea, Thanks!

[Atomicman52]

oh no not again! Another freakin tire thread

bmw inc. Does not design, build, or sell tires (though their dealers do sell them). "maybe" they give some input to the tire manufacturers (unknown).
The riders' manual was written before the bike was produced (so it certainly hasn't kept up with tire technology), and it was written with only a very few "recommended" tires referenced.
I would much rather put my trust in the company that designs not only the tread, but the compound itself, and may even provide recommendations on what bike the tire is - or is not - good for, than in the limited general pamphlet written by any vehicle manufacturer and its lawyers.

Look on the sidewalls, and you will see part of the labeling stating the "maximum cold pressure". (note that pressure should be checked before you heat the tire up by riding on it.)

my personal method is to start at about 10 to 15 per cent lower than the "cold maximum" rating, and slightly adjust from that point for what "feels" like a balance of wear characteristics and handling.

Just Wrong!

[bernie]

how accurate are the tire pressure monitors?

[05biggray]

Been running 40 front 42 rear on 3 different RT’s appx 100,000 miles total over the years.
If I reduce the tire pressure in the front will I, increase or decrease tire life.
I, am 6’2” weight around 160 without clothes.
80% of my miles are Slab . I, get around 9K out of the back tire and 13K on front

[PGlaves]

Been running 40 front 42 rear on 3 different RT’s appx 100,000 miles total over the years.
If I reduce the tire pressure in the front will I, increase or decrease tire life.
I, am 6’2” weight around 160 without clothes.
80% of my miles are Slab . I, get around 9K out of the back tire and 13K on front

That is hard to say. Reduced pressure will somewhat widen the contact patch. But it will also increase squirm and increase the tire operating temperature. Increased pressure will narrow the contact patch and reduce operating temperature, but may increase wear down the middle. It also matters how much straight-up riding and how much leaned-over riding the tire encounters.

If deviating from optimum pressure both an increase or decrease are likely to increase wear and reduce tread life. I suspect that 40 p.s.i. in the front is slightly above the recommended (and presumably optimal) pressure. But that is only a guess. It depends a lot on ambient temperature, loaded weight, etc. It also depends on whether or not those pressures you cite are at 20C (68F) or at some other temperature.

[WalterK75]

I found the comments about tire pressure and riding in mountain areas interesting. Could someone expand on this for me? Without getting to technical, I'm not clear on the "physics" of this.

[PGlaves]

I found the comments about tire pressure and riding in mountain areas interesting. Could someone expand on this for me? Without getting to technical, I'm not clear on the "physics" of this.

I have never altered air pressure because I am at a higher altitude but I do generally drop pressures a couple of pounds in the winter so the tire will run slightly warmer.

[etiennelau]

I have been doing the 10%/20% FT/RT pressure. Seems to be working fine for the last several hundred miles. I previously ran FT/RT at at the 36/42 as recommended by BMW. What I got running at those pressures are 9000miles on PR3, I am close to the end of tread on them. Feathering on both Front and Rear, but I suspect that was due to riding with leaking Front and Rear struts....For the last 500 miles I have been running with new ESA II Wilbers from Ted Porter, night and day compared to the old ESA II stock from BMW.

Do I notice anything different running FT/RT 31/35 PSI instead of 36/42PSI? Probably a nice and softer ride. No fear taking fast right hand sweepers at 70mph with 41 degree lean angle.....But then I have nothing to compare as I never took the same sweeper at 36/42 PSI

Note also I am 163lbs without gear. I ride both without and without top and side cases. But generally nothing heavier than 10-20lbs of stuff. So not heavily loaded to even warrant 36/42 PSI.

[ramble]

Nice input Paul, lot's of variables, heat being big on my list of wear and contact. The silica and aggregates vary in the US by regions and batching plants. Cooler temps for the rider and tires work for me.

[galaxie]

carry max pressure on side wall of tire

[PGlaves]

carry max pressure on side wall of tire

I disagree. That is a government required maximum safe pressure at 20C, not the optimal pressure unless the motorcycle is loaded to the maximum allowed weight.

[SteveAikens]

I disagree.

That's two of us.

[etiennelau]

That's two of us.

That's three of us.

[brownie0486]

I run the RT with 18#'s in each pannier full time. The top box 24/7 gear weighs 8#. So 44#'s all the time in the boxes. I did tend to set pressures according to the 68F rule of 1# under or over increase from the 36/42 recommended at 68F.

On a trip coming up, the above weight and a 60# dry bag on the back seat. 104#'s total, I'm 180. I run 1 up + luggage in normal mode normally. On the trip, I'll run two up normal or comfort mode.

Get off the slabs, into the twisties, set it for sport mode and drop back down to 1 up + luggage.

My dealer gives me the bike back after service with the tires set to 38/40 here in the heat. I've gone to leaving the front at 38, rear still 42 compensated for 68F settings as above.

We'll see how this new set of RS4's run in the 4500 mile month long excursion starting mid next week. I've been getting 7500-8K on the rears of these dunlop rs4's. The michelins never gave me much more than 6-6200 on the rear, same roads, same riding style.

[brownie0486]

I run the RT with 18#'s in each pannier full time. The top box 24/7 gear weighs 8#. So 44#'s all the time in the boxes. I did tend to set pressures according to the 68F rule of 1# under or over increase from the 36/42 recommended at 68F.

On a trip coming up, the above weight and a 60# dry bag on the back seat. 104#'s total, I'm 180. I run 1 up + luggage in normal mode normally. On the trip, I'll run two up normal or comfort mode.

Get off the slabs, into the twisties, set it for sport mode and drop back down to 1 up + luggage.

My dealer gives me the bike back after service with the tires set to 38/40 here in the heat. I've gone to leaving the front at 38, rear still 42 compensated for 68F settings as above.

We'll see how this new set of RS4's run in the 4500 mile month long excursion starting mid next week. I've been getting 7500-8K on the rears of these dunlop rs4's. The michelins never gave me much more than 6-6200 on the rear, same roads, same riding style.

Update on the Dunlop rs4's. 3600 miles was door to door, new rear started at 9/32, 7/32 after the trip. Front started 5/32, after trip 5/32. Ran them cold 38/42 loaded up traveling most of the time. 3600 miles on 2/32's out of a possible 7/32, I'm on about the right schedule to get 10K on the rear but they'll be replaced before that.

I like these tires on both the 16RS and 11RT [ same size ]. On this trip, we caught quite a few rain days. Crossing over Wyomings high desert winds gusting to 40 from all directions, raining most of that time one day. The RS4's performed great. Beat us up a bit, when I got off the bike I felt like I'd run a marathon.