This is the no brake exercise. You can make slow u turns with just throttle, clutch and good body posture.
This is the no brake exercise. You can make slow u turns with just throttle, clutch and good body posture.
John
2004 BMW R1150R Black
Contact me 4 (1&1) training, Expert witness in motorcycle crash reconstruction
I'm sure this can be done, but I prefer to drag the rear brake on my K75. This clutch procedure may be better with integrated brakes, which I don't have. I feel it's too easy to change the pressure on the clutch during a turn and thereby accidentally unbalance the bike or cause it to lurch forward. On the other hand, maybe I need to practice better clutch control.
Walter
"Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it." Mark Twain
be aware that regular use of friction zone (the "other" FZ) on a single-plate dry clutch bike (all R and Klassic-K BMWs) will insure very short clutch life, which will insure either a costly or time-consuming replacement.
Ride Safe, Ride Lots
Hi John, long time no see.
Marty Hill
7 GS white
Ride till you can't
Yes - basically both stating something similar, just from different perspectives.
When I trained as a Motor Officer, use of rear brake drag was essential to the proficiency of most exercises. The trainers however mentioned that to become an H-D Motor Officer Instructor, they needed to demonstrate the same maneuvers without use of braking, so as establish themselves at a level 'above' the students they taught.
I had two (one from the Michigan State Police, the other from Gulfport, MS) that admitted that after mastering the finesse of 'no brake dragging,' they still preferred occasional pressure on the rear brake pedal to smooth out their maneuvers.
I respect Motorman, and his skills are most likely well above most average Motor Officers, such as myself.
But having tried both approaches, I'll still be a 'trail-braker.' But like BikerFish says, do that sparingly with a BMW clutch, or get out your wallet.
Ride safe, ride often and ride ATGATT!![]()
ok, taking the bait...
i feather y R1150GS' clutch a lot when traversing tricky sections off-pavement. At about 78k miles, the bike's rear main seal sort of needed attention and as a preventative I told the shop to replace my friction disk.
it was practically brand new.
so... either people are fanning their clutches while revving the bike too high (no need to rev) or something else is going on, but in my experience with both air and oilheads, the clutch is more than up to the task.
ymmv.
ian
Go soothingly through the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon.
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'67 Trail 90 || '86 R80 G/SPD+ || '97 F650ST || '00 1150 GS || '07 Xchallenge || '13 CB500X || '14 Grom
Last edited by Greenwald; 02-20-2012 at 02:21 PM.
Careful here, quoting this comment: "But having tried both approaches, I'll still be a 'trail-braker.' But like BikerFish says, do that sparingly with a BMW clutch, or get out your wallet."
Not to steal the post or create another dialog, but "trail braking" in not dragging the rear brake through a turn. I had a MSF student last year, in a BRC ask me to watch for him "trail braking" during the class. I asked him if he knew what trail braking was, and he thought it was dragging the rear brake through turns. He was a fairly new rider on a CBR600.
Real trail braking is a technique of using both brakes, while leaning into a turn, to in effect cause the bike to "squat" down at both ends, thus shortening the wheelbase/decrease the effective fork rake, and make a bike with a conventional front fork turn in quicker. The idea is that blended braking into the turn apex, along with rolling up the throttle, makes the bike turn quicker with good stability and even chassis attitude front to rear. I mention the conventional fork because the Telelever fork on the Oilheads does not squat significantly like a conventional fork during braking, so the trail braking effect is less significant.
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