Wideband O2 Installation Overview
Here is an updated installation guide as of March 12, 2013
For those who have followed my project to integrate an Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Wideband O2 Sensor and Controller onto my 2004 R1150RT, I wanted to give an overview of what you need to buy and how it is installed.
The goals of this project were to richen the stock stoichiometric AFR of 14.7:1 (a lean mixture) to something in the range of 13.8 to 14.2 (heading toward a Best Power mixture). Most motors produce more horsepower and torque; do not lean-surge; and run cooler and more reliably as you richen the mixture toward Best Power ratios.
It was an objective that both the Open Loop and Closed Loop fueling mixtures were improved. That meant that I would need to shift the Lambda sensor from 14.7 to the new target (e.g. 13.8). It was also an objective that the Motronic maintained its full function.
After extensive riding and datalogging, I am satisfied that AFRs in the 13.8 to 14.2 range do add power, improve driveability, don't lean-surge and the Motronic continues to operate as designed.
LC-1, Wideband O2 and Gauge (Red or Blue)
Here are the parts:
1. (optional) BoosterPlug to richen Open Loop by 6% or 3.5 Bar fuel pressure regulator (8%). This is to shift the Open Loop fuel table to reduce Adaptation time. If you don't add one of these parts Adaptation to the new AFR Target takes about a tank of fuel. N.B. I used an external adjustable regulator in the fuel return line so that I could make adjustments to pressure as I experimented.
2. Innovate Motorsports LC-1, Bosch Wideband O2, and DB gauge (package from Amazon).
3. Plastic project box 2" x 4" x 1", cable ties, heat shrink tube.
4. A computer with Serial Port to set the AFR on the LC-1.
Here are the steps, see the photos above.
1. Pull the fairings and fuel tank, disconnect ground from the battery.
2. Drop the exhaust, remove the old O2 Sensor (note where cable is routed), cut the sensor from the cable about 4" from the sensor, keep the cable with connector for the new installation. Save the old sensor in case.
3. This is the only tedious step. Take the plastic project box and drill two 3/8" cable entry holes in each end, drill two more holes along one side for the calibration switch and status LED. Insert the cables through rubber grommets as shown in the photo. Wire according to LC-1 instructions with the following additional notes:
a) The stock O2 sensor cable & connector has four wires: the two white wires (Stock O2 heater) can be taped over, they are not needed. The gray wire is sensor ground, tape it over also (or it can be connected through a 1.5K resistor to the controller ground inside the box). The black wire is connected to the LC-1 Analog Ouput 1 which is the Narrowband output.
b) Insert three 3' wires (18 gauge) into the proto box: heater ground, controller ground and 12V. The two ground wires get attached to a single lug which is bolted to the battery ground post. The 12V wire can be connected to the 12V lead on the left-hand fuel injector. This is the easiest fused, key-switched power source but it goes off after a couple seconds since it is the same source as the fuel pump. This source of +12V is on one of the two white wires in the O2 sensor cable so you could have access to in inside the junction box.
Better find a 12V line that goes on and off with the key. The fused side of F1 or F8 is a good choice.
4. Relocate the Motronic O2 sensor connector to the area near the fuel tank electrical connector, on the right hand side of the cycle.
5. Install the LC-1 and proto box where shown in the photos. Plug the Stock O2 connector into the Motronic input O2 connector; connect the power and ground wires; reinstall fuel tank; reset the Motronic; initialize the throttle.
6. Install BoosterPlug or 3.5 Bar regulator if you are using one.
7. Follow the LC-1 instructions for calibrating the Wideband sensor and it's heater.
8. Install the Wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust in the stock O2 sensor bung per the LC-1 instructions; reinstall exhauast; reinstall fairings when you're ready.
9. The AFR gauge cable is coiled under the seat and I connect the gauge as needed.
10. Program your target AFR. Start your engine.
Block Diagram of Finished System
Last edited by Roger 04 RT; 03-12-2013 at 10:54 AM.
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