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Thread: Spline lube 2002 1150RT

  1. #76
    Quote Originally Posted by OLSENSAN View Post
    Did any of you guys use lubricant on the fuel injector and throttle body o-rings during re-assembly? If so what brand/type/where to get. Thanks again --Greg O
    I use a little smear of ordinary silicone dielectric grease. I favor it because I know that it is benign with almost all types of rubber. Some formulations of grease don't like rubber bits. I use it on seals, O rings, and hoses so that they don't stick too.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  2. #77
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I use a little smear of ordinary silicone dielectric grease. *I favor it because I know that it is benign with almost all types of rubber. *Some formulations of grease don't like rubber bits. *I use it on seals, O rings, and hoses so that they don't stick too.
    The silicone grease seems a logical choice with the caveat that it is used sparingly and in a manner that it doesn't get drawn into the throttle body. Recently, I've been working O2 sensor issues and came across this:

    "A lambda sensor‘«÷s normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles, but the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer."

    I don't know much about lubricants, are there any that are benign to rubber and oxygen sensors?

  3. #78
    Curmudgeon nrpetersen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLSENSAN View Post
    I have a link here to share for RB racing and they address the issue of BMW spline problems with clutch plates which they sell. Here is the link, I'd like to hear what the Mech Eng and mechanical guys have to say about this. It seems to make good sense.

    http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmw_clutches.html
    They totally missed the reason for the failed male spline pictured.

    The rest of their stuff reads pretty well though the primary chain housing could have been made from stronger & easier to machine 2024 T351 aluminum, and not 6061-T6 which is only architectural aluminum. It does polish better than 2024 though.

    I was surprised at the level of compression on an engaged clutch disk. 1 N/sq mm means our M/C clutches have nearly 3000 lbs compression on them. I have always guessed only 1000 lbs. Actual probably is somewhere in between.

    That's some absolutely magnificent English Wheel work on the race bike fairing. Interesting THX
    Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT View Post
    The silicone grease seems a logical choice with the caveat that it is used sparingly and in a manner that it doesn't get drawn into the throttle body. Recently, I've been working O2 sensor issues and came across this:

    "A lambda sensor‘«÷s normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles, but the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer."

    I don't know much about lubricants, are there any that are benign to rubber and oxygen sensors?
    I have a tube of Dow silicone in a squeeze tube that is kind to rubber-been in my toolbox for 40+ yrs. Not kind to paint work as in repainting/adhesion. Glycerin is great for things like door seals on cars but only lasts for awhile, then needs redone.

  5. #80
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    I need to ask how any of you removed the Clutch rod seal. I looked at one thread the fellow had a 45 degree offset pic. What is the best way to tackle this and the input shaft seal to the FD?

    I am editing this now. I drilled a 1/32" hole in the seal in order to place a small screw in it and pull it out. Makes sense right? This seal is in so tight, the entire rear unit pulls along with pulling on the little screw holding just by about 1/16th imbedded in the seal. Yikes, any ideas?
    Last edited by OLSENSAN; 02-17-2012 at 01:26 AM.

  6. #81
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    I have seen posts where a seal was knocked on one side to cock it over for removal. Has anyone done this with the slave seal inside the slave cyl cavity? I have the entire unit heated up to 100 degrees and although the seal is pliable, it will not budge. Any ideas, I'm beat right now.

    Update, finally have it removed. Apparently some sort of gasket sealer or adhesive was used on the outer walls of the seal and it was really stuck tight. I had to wrap it pretty hard to free it up and get it cocked on one end. Drilled a hole in the opposite end and pulled it with a screw imbedded. I'm trying to figure a way to remove the substantial amount of adhesive from the walls of the slave cyl. cavity where the seal rests. I would not have expected that this would be done at the factory. Oh well. Any good ideas out there for solvent for the adhesive? .
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    Last edited by OLSENSAN; 02-17-2012 at 10:22 PM.

  7. #82
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    I tried Acetone and MEK, no good. Whatever the residue is, I can see an exact very distinct impression (including little ridges) of the seal on the outboard side of the cavity made by the outer surface of the seal. It is not on the shaft. Exactly what one would find if some adhesive or hardening gasket material was used. It is grey in color and will turn to powder if lightly scratched with a screw driver problem being with that is I don't want to scratch the aluminum seal baring surface.

  8. #83
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    I believe this is why this seal was adhered/liquid gasketed in. The little dot you see is one of 2 deep gouges in the sealing surface. This is the second dildo result I have found on this bike from the factory now that I have torn into it. When I replaced my pivot bearings with bushings, I found that the installer cocked the one bearing as it was being pressed or seated in. The result was a small pile of squashed aluminum in the base of the seat and the bearing never got to rest against the back properly. That I had to carefully grind out the excess aluminum.
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  9. #84
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    Olsensan allow me to give you my two cents: After having struggled through your drama, should something go wrong, like a clutch or whatever, you can just take it apart and fix it! That's the great part about messing with these bikes. It just takes a little time and effort. And maybe a few bucks? Good job. Keep up the good work.

  10. #85
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Well, the job is done and the feel of the clutch when shifting is much smoother and takes less pressure to squeeze the clutch on the grip. Nothing leaks, the innards are squeaky clean and I'm assured that all the hardware is torqued correctly. Best yet, that red loctite has been replaced with the medium blue. Why use the red, good grief, I have no idea. I actually had the threads come out with one m-8 bolt, still attached, great. Now its all blue and that is a good thing.

    I've compiled a slew of pics detailing the sequence of events and position of wiring etc which I want to post here, maybe 5-8 per day so people can chime in. Total, maybe 25 shots. Thanks for all of your help during the procedure!

  11. #86
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    Spline Lube 2002 R1150RT

    You caught my interest because I own this bike. My question is, is there any way to delay this major project? For example, if I change the rear drive, etc. oil frequently and with synthetic fluid, will that help. Comments VERY welcome. Thanks, All!

  12. #87
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorroscar View Post
    You caught my interest because I own this bike. My question is, is there any way to delay this major project? For example, if I change the rear drive, etc. oil frequently and with synthetic fluid, will that help. Comments VERY welcome. Thanks, All!
    I know of two options to delay the job an neither are particularly helpful:

    Park the bike until you feel like dealing with this.

    Put it off, keep riding, and hope for the best.

    On a more helpful note, you can pull the starter motor to get a look t how much play the clutch disk has on the input shaft. That will give you an idea of how much wear has already taken place. Go to post 36 of the following thread for a link to a video showing the play in question: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=57701&page=3


    How many miles do you have on your bike? Is it also a 2002?

  13. #88
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    2002 R1150RT Spline Lube

    Thanks for the reply - I have a 2002 R1150 RT with 36K miles on it. It was sitting for a year before I bought it with 32K miles on it - BIG mistake. This bike reacts poorly to sitting. It took me about $1,000 to get it running properly, and I'm just trying to avoid major "stuff" like the spline lube obviously is. If I can defer that job by frequent fluid changes, it's WELL worth it. Thanx!!

  14. #89
    Hi Karl:

    I did my first spline lube at 79,000 miles and they were fine.
    Luck is involved.
    YMMV

    There are no fluid changes that would affect this issue.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  15. #90
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    2002 r1150 rt

    Thanks, Mike - from the other posts, it sounds as though you're right on target about "luck" being the prime factor. I appreciate it.

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