Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 5 6 7
Results 91 to 102 of 102

Thread: Spline lube 2002 1150RT

  1. #91
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    North Ridgeville OH
    Posts
    1,529
    Quote Originally Posted by zorroscar View Post
    If I can defer that job by frequent fluid changes, it's WELL worth it. Thanx!!
    Frequent fluid changes (with the correct oil) are nice (especially for your final drive), but have no impact on the splines. Our clutches are dry. sorry / welcome to the club.

  2. #92
    Loading the Bike
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    8

    R1150 RT Spline Lube

    Thanx for taking the trouble to reply. Sounds like a good reason to line up a great mechanic aside from the dealer...Much appreciated!!

  3. #93
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,663
    Quote Originally Posted by zorroscar View Post
    Thanx for taking the trouble to reply. Sounds like a good reason to line up a great mechanic aside from the dealer...Much appreciated!!
    look up Tom High on MOA website. not sure how close to Tampa he is, but could be worth a drive.
    (someone else might know his business name, i'm not recalling it right now)
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  4. #94
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Trinity, NC
    Posts
    947
    Quote Originally Posted by zorroscar View Post
    You caught my interest because I own this bike. My question is, is there any way to delay this major project? For example, if I change the rear drive, etc. oil frequently and with synthetic fluid, will that help. Comments VERY welcome. Thanks, All!
    As others have said, fluid changes have no effect on the splines. Others may disagree, but I believe you may get some benefit from application of moly grease to the splines in place via the opening made by removal of the starter motor. Paint the exposed splines with an artist's brush and moly grease. It may take more than one application to work itself into the hidden spline area, but I believe it works.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  5. #95
    Rally Rat
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Madison, CT
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by zorroscar View Post
    Thanks, Mike - from the other posts, it sounds as though you're right on target about "luck" being the prime factor. I appreciate it.
    Too much is left to "luck." The word should be "confidence" but that would imply consistently high quality on the part of the manufacturer.

  6. #96
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    3,128
    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    As others have said, fluid changes have no effect on the splines. Others may disagree, but I believe you may get some benefit from application of moly grease to the splines in place via the opening made by removal of the starter motor. Paint the exposed splines with an artist's brush and moly grease. It may take more than one application to work itself into the hidden spline area, but I believe it works.
    I would disagree.
    - The part of the splines you can see and reach with the starter out have no sliding parts on them in that area
    - The clutch disk and it's hub slide forward from the exposed area
    - The hub moves forward and away from the rear part of the splines you can see a very tiny amount so it's hard to imagine how any lube could work it's way forward and in there. There's nothing to move it forward.

    Some have tried lubing with modified syringes to get some lube into the clutch hub. It's a long and laborious process and so far there are no reports of how much lube actually got into the sliding area where it's needed. You'd have to take it apart to find out. I could only see this method being marginally effective on splines that are already somewhat worn.

    Bottom line is to lube them properly the transmission has to come out and you must fully expose the splines, clean them and lube them properly.

    Problem is no one wants to take their transmission out after brush lubing or hypodermic lubing because avoiding that is why they did it that way in the first place!
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  7. #97
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Attica,OH
    Posts
    149
    - The part of the splines you can see and reach with the starter out have no sliding parts on them in that area
    - The clutch disk and it's hub slide forward from the exposed area
    - The hub moves forward and away from the rear part of the splines you can see a very tiny amount so it's hard to imagine how any lube could work it's way forward and in there. There's nothing to move it forward.



    (Bottom line is to lube them properly the transmission has to come out and you must fully expose the splines, clean them and lube them properly.) I agree, I use to have the wishful thinking that you could just take the starter out and go that way, but after tearing it apart this winter I don't see how it could work when the hub don't slide over the splines you can see. And with the needle if it does get some lube in their and can't be that much. But that is just my opinion.

  8. #98
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Trinity, NC
    Posts
    947
    Since I haven't pulled the transmission, I can only report my anecdotal experience. I was having difficult down-shifting from 3-2 and 2-1. I know what that feels like - I had my splines self-destruct at 48K miles - the bike was new to me, one month.

    After I painted my splines with Moly-60, it took about 40 - 50 miles of riding and then I could feel a noticeable smoothing out of the down-shifts. Removing the starter is easy enough, that I have done this procedure a few more times, usually when I have the fairing off to sync the TBs. I'm at 87K miles now and shifting is very smooth (for a 2001 R bike). I guess I won't know for sure until I pull the tranny or I lose another input spline.

    What I do know is there was a noticeable improvement in down-shifting after I did the procedure. If it's impossible for the grease to migrate under the clutch hub, then this was a convenient coincidence.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  9. #99
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Adirondaks and LI,NY
    Posts
    468
    I know the thought of doing this job is painful, it is a large commitment. After having done this once, although I do not look forward to the job in the future, I know now what needs to be done and the fear of the unknown is second rate. Take your time, take advantage of these threads and the experience and have at it. The rewards far outweigh the costs. What is crazy is after having done this I have gone back to check this and that even though I used a check list, mostly torqued fasteners. Insecurity I guess but now I'm sure nothing will come flying off the bike. I also just completed the throttle body sync'ing and brake fluid changes so a lot of good has come of it.

  10. #100
    Curmudgeon nrpetersen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    minnetonka mn
    Posts
    722
    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Since I haven't pulled the transmission, I can only report my anecdotal experience. I was having difficult down-shifting from 3-2 and 2-1. I know what that feels like - I had my splines self-destruct at 48K miles - the bike was new to me, one month.

    After I painted my splines with Moly-60, it took about 40 - 50 miles of riding and then I could feel a noticeable smoothing out of the down-shifts. Removing the starter is easy enough, that I have done this procedure a few more times, usually when I have the fairing off to sync the TBs. I'm at 87K miles now and shifting is very smooth (for a 2001 R bike). I guess I won't know for sure until I pull the tranny or I lose another input spline.

    What I do know is there was a noticeable improvement in down-shifting after I did the procedure. If it's impossible for the grease to migrate under the clutch hub, then this was a convenient coincidence.
    Interesting. In general a little bit of lube can go a long way, but you should probably renew it frequently.

    How much backlash did you have in your spline - as measured in the tangential motion at the clutch disk outside diameter. (I realize you may not have done this, but it is a good thing to keep track of it as an indication of spline wear.)
    Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6

  11. #101
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    3,128
    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Since I haven't pulled the transmission, I can only report my anecdotal experience. I was having difficult down-shifting from 3-2 and 2-1. I know what that feels like - I had my splines self-destruct at 48K miles - the bike was new to me, one month.

    After I painted my splines with Moly-60, it took about 40 - 50 miles of riding and then I could feel a noticeable smoothing out of the down-shifts. Removing the starter is easy enough, that I have done this procedure a few more times, usually when I have the fairing off to sync the TBs. I'm at 87K miles now and shifting is very smooth (for a 2001 R bike). I guess I won't know for sure until I pull the tranny or I lose another input spline.

    What I do know is there was a noticeable improvement in down-shifting after I did the procedure. If it's impossible for the grease to migrate under the clutch hub, then this was a convenient coincidence.
    Well, I'm no expert so there ya go. I just don't get how sticky lube can get from open splines into a tight location without something helping it along. Heat maybe?

    Or maybe James Taylor was right?

    "Once you tell somebody the way that you feel, you can feel it beginning to ease.
    I think it's true what they say about the squeaky wheel always getting the grease"
    -James Taylor
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  12. #102
    Registered User Bohan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Georgia - USA
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by josh00 View Post
    (bottom line is to lube them properly the transmission has to come out and you must fully expose the splines, clean them and lube them properly.) i agree, i use to have the wishful thinking that you could just take the starter out and go that way, but after tearing it apart this winter i don't see how it could work when the hub don't slide over the splines you can see. And with the needle if it does get some lube in their and can't be that much. But that is just my opinion.
    +1
    2004 BMW R1150RT

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •