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03 k1200GT fuel filter

jeffd

New member
Ok, another maintenance question. Manual says to remove the fuel tank and take everything out the bottom to replace the fuel filter. On my K11 I just reach in and replace it from the top after removing the fuel filler/cap. Is it possible to do this on the K12GT or is the opening just to small.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
The access for the fuel filter (and pump) is through the right bottom of the tank. It's a PITA, and the only way to get to it.
 
Exactly, totally different construction of the tank and filter assembly. Once you get in there - get the filter and pump out - you will likely want to change to screw clamps on the hoses as the stock ones are the factory crimped kind. There are at least two types of tank bodies providing for two different pump/filter 'covers'. One has several hex nuts around the large unit, others like mine, have a large screw on 'cap' with a rubber seal. It has been a long while since I did this myself but I seem to remember very good instructions in the Clymer manual, probably in the DIY section here, on the i-BMW forum, and also at Finley's Pirate's Lair. They all remind you to have a fire extinquisher handy, drain the fuel completely first, as this is of course the lowest point of the tank, etc, etc.

The filter is on a hose that comes in from the 'outside' then goes to the pump. It is way down on the right, you could never get to it through the filler hole let alone get the necessary tools to it or see what is happening.

While you are there, change your air filter. It resides under the tank.
 
Most of the bodywork is already off to do a brake bleed. Guess I might as well pull the tank. I have the Clymers and it does lay it all out. Of course the tank is clear full for winter storage. I have ordered steel disconnects from Beemer Boneyard since the tank will be off anyway.
Jeff
 
Also the rubber O-ring that seals the filter and pump plate tends to swell when you undo the assembly (gotta love ethanol!). You can let it sit a while and it will shrink back down, hit it with light heat from a hair dryer to speed up the process, or replace it and hang the old one up to dry out for the next service. In the summer, direct sunlight will dry it pretty quickly.
 
Also the rubber O-ring that seals the filter and pump plate tends to swell when you undo the assembly (gotta love ethanol!). You can let it sit a while and it will shrink back down, hit it with light heat from a hair dryer to speed up the process, or replace it and hang the old one up to dry out for the next service. In the summer, direct sunlight will dry it pretty quickly.

Good to know. Thanks for the tip. Not a big fan of the ethanol either.
Jeff
 
Oh...ho...I forgot about the O ring swelling.....That was frustrating, but fortunately I let it sit in the sun (when I lived in Fiddletown...) while I did other stuff and came back to it...then all was well.
If I remember right, those are relatively small screw clamps you will use to replace the crimped ones. Maybe look up online what size the replacement crimp style is so you can get the right size.
 
Here's what the filter and pump setup looks like on a 03K1200RS.

IMG_0097.jpg


When you change to the metal QDs, save one of the plastic male ends to make a hose for a clean, easy way to drain your tank the next time you need to remove it.
The plastic male end will fit the metal female end.

IMG_0095.jpg


This plastic funnel from Beemer Boneyard is a handy tool for bleeding your brakes. It screws into the reservoir.
IMG_0100.jpg
 
Finally had time to change the fuel filter yesterday. Since I had the new metal QD's ready to install, I temporarily used one to make a drain hose per Lee's suggestion. Worked like a champ.

I didn't have problems with the rubber gasket swelling. Biggest problem I had was with the little clamps holding the vent hoses on. What a PITA with the limited tools I had.

Anyway, filter is in and no signs of leaks. Waiting on the air filter before I put the tank back on and fill with fresh fuel.

Brake bleed is next. Let the fun begin.
Jeff
 
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