F800 series maintenance

I might trade my RT in on an F800 bike someday.

I'm curious: what are the valve adjustment intervals, and is that something an owner would usually shy away from? I do adjust the valves and sync the throttle bodies on my RT. How are the valves adjusted on these 798cc motors?

Do you adjust the steering head bearings?

Any comments on F800 series maintenance appreciated.

thanks,

Harry

Adjustment intervals are 12k. I haven't done one yet, but there appears to be a fair amount of disassembly to get to the valvetrain. None of it appears to be complicated, but does look time consuming.

gunderwood said:

Adjustment intervals are 12k. I haven't done one yet, but there appears to be a fair amount of disassembly to get to the valvetrain. None of it appears to be complicated, but does look time consuming.

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The local dealer said that they have checked many valves at 12K but none have needed adjustment. My bike has had just the regular maintenance. I just put a front tire on (Tourance), the Battlewing was down to about 20% at 9800 miles.
The tech checked the steering head bearings and all was well. The valve cover was leaking and BMW took care of it under warranty.
All and all, it's been a good machine. Gary

Throttle body sync....

Regarding throttle body sync....

I can find no mention of need to sync. the throttle bodies, and can't find a procedure on how to do it in the BMW shop manual.....

Has anyone else figured this out?
It does seem like something that should be checked....

jimbob59 said:

Regarding throttle body sync....

I can find no mention of need to sync. the throttle bodies, and can't find a procedure on how to do it in the BMW shop manual.....

Has anyone else figured this out?
It does seem like something that should be checked....

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I questioned that too, but they apparently do not need it. Not sure if there is a balace vent between the TBs or if its just done with electronic trickery.

I've got valve checks on this winters agenda for both my F800GS and my wifes F800ST. I do realise its a lot more work than what I was used to with my R1100RS, but as was mentioned, no one seems to have needed any actual shim changes at the 20,000Km (12,000 mile) mark. I anticipate it will be simply a measurment excercise.

Other routine maintenance is really not much different than any other BMW. Oil changes are straight forward, No other lube changes to do, just brake fluid annually and antifreeze every four or five.

As always, the best bet is to invest in a good manual which will outline all the correct procedures and list all the important data.

Idle sych is accomplished with the idle stepper motors. Basic synch is fixed by the mechanical linkage connecting the two. Don't mess with it unless you have to replace one throttle body for some reason.

Thanks for the information.

Harry

PGlaves said:

Idle sych is accomplished with the idle stepper motors. Basic synch is fixed by the mechanical linkage connecting the two. Don't mess with it unless you have to replace one throttle body for some reason.

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Paul:

Are you speaking of the vertical twins?
I did not realize they had two idle stepper motors!
If so, that makes sense - Thanks!

Jim

I had my 800S for 93,000 miles and the valves never did need adjusting; I took it to the Dealer every 12,000 miles and they didn't always check the valves; I had to insist they do it and I think at one time it went 48,000 miles without the valves checked or the plugs changed. I changed the oil at the 6000 miles in between the 12,000 miles. I now have an 08 800St that I bought with 6000 miles on it and now have 18000 miles; I think I am just going to take it to the Dealer every 24,000 miles and have them check the valves then. I always did the valves on our oilheads and airheads but don't want to tackle it on the 800.

i checked valves on my F8GS at ~19K, based on most reposrts saying "they don't go out of adjsutment very readily." mine were within spec, will check again at 35K or so.
checking was an annoying procedure, but not technically difficult. things are stuffed in there pretty tight under the faux gas tank. when/if necessary, I will likely leave an actual adjustment to my dealer.

It's a real pain to check the valves. The valve cover is buried in the frame, and the gasket is extremely oddball. If it is not put back right with sealer, it will leak, and there are many 'mechanics' who have some weird phobia against sealer.
Thus many people have leaks from the valve covers, ab initio, and after several trips to the dealer. BMW recommends sealer on the gasket, but yet ... there are those ...
Or there might be leaks after a diy valve check.
My valves were ok, and didn't need any of the shim adjustment.
There is only one stepper motor. I think the sync is not necessary due to the parallel proximity of the cylinders. But I never really knew the science as to why it was not necessary.
Or how it could be checked or adjusted.
All other maintenance is just usual motorcycle maintenance.
Sometimes there are belt drive issues, but to no great extent. And they do have chain models.
They are quite nice bikes to ride.
dc

Thanks guys!

Answering one of the original questions:

Yes, there is an adjustment procedure for the headset bearings, not very difficult to do ... but I don't have the book in front of me....

My valves were still in spec at 36,000 miles, at about 50,000 miles the cam chain tensioner and guides had worn out enough to allow the cam chain to stretch beyond hope, luckily it was caught before it broke and blew the motor.
Replacing the cam chain on an F800 is very expensive as the engine has to get dropped out of the bike and the engine case split, new bearings, etc, etc.

The valves seem to stay in spec for a long time, but the chain tensioner is really the thing to keep an eye on, and possibly replace well before it could wear. I know I'll be replacing mine after about 36,000 more miles.
If your bike starts to rattle more than it did before, don't go thinking it's just the valves out of spec.
Kind of like that sound an F800 makes when starting cold, before oil puts builds pressure on the tensioner.


Here's what it looks like to get into the valves, though you'd have to get a little deeper... this was in the Yukon when trying to fix an oil leak and doing an oil change.













Checking the steering head bearings is also a good idea and very simple, more often than not I find mine not in spec.