03 k1200GT Integrated brake bleeding

I bought my 03 K1200GT last fall and have no service records on it. I took the body panels off today and found the brake fluid to be almost honey color. Not a good thing. Anyway, my Clymer manual says that I need to have a dealer bleed the brakes on this bike. I would think that I could flush the fluid on my own. Anyone have proper instructions that they would share?
Thanks,
Jeff

Start here:
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=4385

I think the original document by Gary Hollinger is available at several places on the web, the above thread should get you started.

Check also for the updated SI from BMW relating to fluid change intervals, as the recommended intervals changed also. Sorry, I don't have the link for that handy right now.

Take your time and have a helper handy, it's not that bad a job once you assemble all the needed bits.

Good luck,

GTRider

I printed out that thread. Only 37 pages long! I will probably give it a go. Best case, all is good. Worse case, it goes to the dealer. It is only going to cost some time and a few bucks for brake fluid to find out.
Jeff

Be sure to look at the special tools recommended in the article. The article describes an elaborate spacer or block for the calipers but you can use two thin wedges and insert them between the brake pads to achieve the same effect. The funnel tool is offered by beemerboneyard, reasonably priced and no options that are significantly cheaper.
The bleed screw most difficult to get to is the one on the left side of the ABS unit, in the recess that is partly covered by the steel brake lines.
There is a special, expensive BMW wrench tool (made by Hazet?) but you can buy a 7mm box end wrench from Craftsman for $3, heat it over a gas flame and bend it 90 degrees close to the box end (taking care not to deform the box end...).
You should then be able to insert your special tool between the brake lines and open/close the bleed nipple.
Best of luck.

jurgen said:

Be sure to look at the special tools recommended in the article. The article describes an elaborate spacer or block for the calipers but you can use two thin wedges and insert them between the brake pads to achieve the same effect. The funnel tool is offered by beemerboneyard, reasonably priced and no options that are significantly cheaper.

Click to expand...

I am sure I can cobble something up for the wrench. Not sure what's going on with the funnel tool. I will have to go back and reread the procedure.
Jeff

JeffD said:

Not sure what's going on with the funnel tool. I will have to go back and reread the procedure.
Jeff

Click to expand...

The funnel is threaded and has a o-ring which works better than a regular funnel.
I like the fact that it's easy to see the fluid level in the funnel and you can run a large volume through the system in a couple seconds.
When doing the wheel circuit, like I'm doing in the picture, you turn the key on, press the brake lever and let the servo motor pump the fluid though. The harder you press the lever, the faster the fluid will be pumped through.
Without the funnel, it would be easy to empty the reservoir.

Lee, thanks for the pic. I see the plan now. Will probably whistle something up in the machine shop to adapt a dime store funnel, rather than pony up $40 for one
Jeff

Why can't you make a little adapter to replace the grub screw and power bleed backwards into the reservoirs? Seems like it should work as that is how the factory fills them, if I understand it correctly.
Jeff

Does the GT have two separate chambers in the reservoir like the LT or just one? If two like the LT make sure you have the funnel in the correct one.

roy said:

Does the GT have two separate chambers in the reservoir

Click to expand...

Yes it does. One chamber for the front brakes and one chamber for the back brakes. The reservoir on the right handlebar is for the control circuit.

The funnel is available from Beemer Boneyard and is well worth the price. Consider it a worthwhile investment in the ongoing maintenance of your bike.

Best,

GTRider

JeffD said:

Why can't you make a little adapter to replace the grub screw and power bleed backwards into the reservoirs? Seems like it should work as that is how the factory fills them, if I understand it correctly.
Jeff

Click to expand...

Fundamentally, I believe you are correct. So, why not try it out?
Put together all the tools, adapters, nipples, hoses, a suitable pump etc. and just do it. Take lots of pictures and write up the detailed instructions for all of us
Or, go with the posted instructions, successfully used by many of us.
Your call.