• Welcome Guest! If you are already a member of the BMW MOA, please log in to the forum in the upper right hand corner of this page. Check "Remember Me?" if you wish to stay logged in.

    We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMWMOA forum provides. Why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the club magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMWMOA offers?

    Want to read the MOA monthly magazine for free? Take a 3-month test ride of the magazine; check here for details.

  • NOTE. Some content will be hidden from you. If you want to view all content, you must register for the forum if you are not a member, or if a member, you must be logged in.

My auxiliary light obsession 2010 RT

...........

I've also considered the very well made (USA) hi power LED's from Rigid. As before, I welcome all comments, suggestions, and PICS !

Just picked up a set of Rigids from Amazon for $155, they sound like they were an "open package" type return so they knocked $35 off them..SWEET!
 
BMR brackcets

I mounted lights on my R1200RT with BMR brackets:

bmr-brackets.jpg


http://www.bmrproducts.com/proddetail.php?prod=020_DLM_R12&cat=42

Wired directly to the battery with a switch and an in-line fuse.

The lights are NOS Piaas that I have had on a shelf for years.
 
Last edited:
I mounted lights on my R1200RT with BMR brackets:

bmr-brackets.jpg


Wired directly to the battery with a switch and an in-line fuse.

Thanks Dean. A question and observation... What brand of lights did you hang on those BMR mounts and do you have a pic from the cockpit at night? Your garage is entirely too clean and tidy, just sayin...:D
 
T Link Mounts on 2007 R1200RT

Yes, ezymount has what you're looking for but they're temporarily out of stock for the 2010 model :doh

I've looked at Lumalink but they don't advertise prices unless you go through the process of ordering some mounts. That spells $$$ to me...

Anybody out there using Lumalink mounts can tell us a price?

PIAA also sells a bracket much like the ezymount which places the light underneath the nose/headlight area.

Just installed a set of Lumalink T Link mounts on my 2007 RT. Come powder coated with all the mouonting hardware. Fit perfect a.d they're beefy so I don't think they'll break. Mounted PIAA LP530s on mine. Seen here:https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...486673628040998_1997032878_n.jpg&size=960,642
 
Time to revive this thread and answer your question... they in fact work great! I added a set of LED Denali D2 lights from Twisted Throttle using the RT-P brackets. I am pleased with the amount of light that they put out for both conspicuity and night driving. I have found that they basically wash out the standard H7 low beams and produce light that is just slightly blue... I think they're rated at about 5000k which makes sense. They don't quite have the throw of the H7 high beam, but definitely make a big difference at night. I've had a few cars flash their lights at me, but hey, that means they saw me, right? I try to run them on secondary roadways and will shut them off when in traffic to be courteous to the cars that I am behind.

If you want to do this type of install, here is what you will need:

Lights - again, these are Denali D2 LEDs, but you could use anything that is compatible with the U-shaped bracket of the RT-P mounts. You can see in the photo looking down from behind the light that I used the supplied U mount as a spacer inside the RT-P bracket. As it worked out, using the bracket as a spacer also prevents the lights from ever pointing up past the horizontal position (you can still tip them down a bit).

RT-P Upper Light Brackets - 51 16 7 693 207 & 208

M5x16 Screws & M5 Washers - 07 12 9 905 120 and 46 63 7 658 638 (4x each)

Mirror Housings - The light bracket pops up through the outer mirror housing. You can solve this by using your existing housings and using a Dremel tool to open up a hole for each mount, or you can replace your standard housings with RT-P housings, which come from Das Motherland with the holes already cut :german I wanted my set-up to look factory so I used the RT-P housings:

46 63 7 714 537 for the left, 51 16 7 714 538 for the right. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver to make the swap and a little hand strength to separate the housing from the rest of the mirror.

Wiring the lights is very easy. Follow the plastic removal and nacelle removal in the Hexhead Tech Subforum. I ended up taking off all of the plastic which makes running the wires easy.

The Denali lights come with a push button switch that I mounted on the audio control blank just above the 12V power outlet on the clutch side. It's easy to drop your left hand from the left grip to hit the switch when needed in this position. Here's the final product:

LightsFront.jpg


LightTop.jpg


LightBottom.jpg


Oh yeah, they're kinda bright ;) My three 100W garage lights are on and the parking lights are on just for reference.

LightsOn.jpg


In a local school parking lot during their maiden voyage. My cell phone camera doesn't do them justice.

LightsOn2.jpg


Hope this helps anyone who has been following this thread since it's beginning.

I found this thread after doing a search on mounting auxiliary lights and decided to use the same mounts from a RTP. I went with the Denali D4 lights. I have them mounted and I'm starting the wiring, which looks pretty straight forward. My only question is where is the best place to find and tap into the high beam hot wire? Thanks.

Doug
image_zps7jmjzwbq.jpeg
 
I think the only easily accessible point for the high beam (white) wire would be at the six-wire connector on the back of the headlight housing. (Picture here)

In the post you quoted, it seems Stig used a separate switch for his lights. I assume you are just using the high beam to activate the D4s via a relay?
 
I think the only easily accessible point for the high beam (white) wire would be at the six-wire connector on the back of the headlight housing. (Picture here)

In the post you quoted, it seems Stig used a separate switch for his lights. I assume you are just using the high beam to activate the D4s via a relay?

I found it. Thanks. I wired them so that they go on and off with the high beam switch. The wire harness that comes with the lights has a switch that has to be connected. So I just left it under the seat.

Doug
 
BMR out of stock

Doug - That is Sickkkk.... Love the mounts man!

Got the same bug as all of you, and, I'm planning a 1500 Bun Burner this Summer 2016.

However, I think I'll elect to mount my second set of PIAA 55W's under the mirrors, as I have wind deflectors already mounted high up.

Just went here: http://www.bmrproducts.com/products.php?cat=30 And, BMR is out of stock for
my necessary mounts, and so, I will anxiously await an email that they've restocked this item and will order in 2016.

Ahhhhhhhh......Winter wrenching....!
 
I'm using the under mirror police mounts but they still needed some modification because of the size of my lights.





The lights are LX5's from LEDRider.com http://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=LX5&manufacturer=17 and use a programmable Skene controller. On the RT you can use an existed switch as a toggle.....mine is connected to the hazard light for toggle. In reality I never use it. The lights are on at 10% with the low beams and go to 100% with the high beams.

The money you save using these lights, you'll be able to pay for the brackets. The lights light up the night.

I have no financial interest in LED Rider, just a happy customer.
 
Back
Top