• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Broken Fairing Connection 1150RT

roger 04 rt

New member
The other day in my haste to get the O2 Sensor unplugged ( Open Loop AFRs ), one of the fairing connection tabs on the left hand fairing, caught on the cylinder head fins and broke.

The tab separated in two places:

In photos 1 and 2 you can see where it cracked and separated from the main fairing.

In photos 3 and 4 you can see where it was thermally welded to an inner plastic attachment.

My hope is that I can use a high performance plastic glue to repair the crack and then an epoxy glue or contact cement to re-weld two black areas. I don't know if I will need to reinforce with bolts and nuts or other, in the former thermal weld area.

I am a novice with plastic and glue so would appreciate any ideas or glues that could be used.

RB

bf1.jpg


bf2.jpg


bf3.jpg


bf4.jpg
 
I have had better luck with JB weld epoxy than I have with any adhesive products. Clean the area, put plenty of JB on and let it set up for a day or so. You can sand and shape the hardened JB if you need to. Plus JB won't be bothered by the heat like some adhesives may be. That area where the break is does get hot.
 
repair

+1 on the JB Weld. I have an RS fairing that has been wrecked and repaired with what appears to be MarineTex, another hard epoxy product. It also adheres to the ABS very well.
 
Instead of relying solely on the JB Weld for the attachment, whether it's a "butt" or "lap" joining, grab a wire coat hangar and cut & bend a couple of reinforcing ribs that will lay on the inside of the pieces and match their curves. After they fit nicely (they don't have to be perfect unless they'll be visible), coat them also with the JB, lay them in place, and slather more JB on top of them. Works well.
 
I agree - do Pauls metal backup maybe with some thin soft aluminum which can be hammer formed to lay flat across the back side.
 
Thanks everyone for the quick feedback. After feeling dumb for rushing, it is good to have good ideas for the repair. I will look into the JB.

RB
 
Go out and buy fiberglass batting used for auto repair. clean and layout a liberal amount of jb weld on the piece and than spread the batting cut to size on the piece. Coat the batting with a liberal amount of the jb weld again, let set. You will never see that piece break again.
 
Go out and buy fiberglass batting used for auto repair. clean and layout a liberal amount of jb weld on the piece and than spread the batting cut to size on the piece. Coat the batting with a liberal amount of the jb weld again, let set. You will never see that piece break again.

That sounds like a great idea. Reinforcing that area of the fairing has come to mind whenever I remove the tupperware on my RT. It's a tad flimsy down there and I can see how it would easily crack or worse, break right off. The wire or metal idea might attract too much heat on the back of the plastic and hold it there due to being a denser material. Don't want concentrated heat on the back of plastic bits...

Off topic question: I have a broken side cover pin and some face shield detent tabs that need fixing. I've tried crazy glue and Q-Bond but they just break again sooner than later.
Does JB Weld work on all plastics? Doesn't really say on the tubes and I've never used the stuff.
 
Does JB Weld work on all plastics? Doesn't really say on the tubes and I've never used the stuff.[/QUOTE]

Works real well on all plastics, and just about anything else. I've used it alot on just about everything.
 
I've used JB weld on my plastics, 02 1150RT. As long as you prep the tupperware properly this stuff will not ever loosen or break. Clean surface, sand with 400 grit paper maybe a little more abrasive, blow off the area and wipe with alcohol or a good solvent that won't eat the plastics. You could even use metal screen from the ace hardware in place of the fiberglass. Go with two or more layers of the stuff, whatever makes you happy. Use filler or sandable JB weld on the outside, smooth it nicey-nice, hit with touch up and whaaaalaa, you'll be so proud! :brad
 
Back
Top