Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: Adjusting Valves without removing plastic

  1. #1

    Adjusting Valves without removing plastic

    I have a 2003 R1150RT. Is it possible to adjust the valves without removing all the plastic if I use the cam chain gear method?

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,663
    i will go with "probably".
    you can read the cam gear once the valve cover is off, so if you have a clean line of sight to the gear face, then you'll be fine. if not- well, then just remove the lower fairing panels as necessary.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  3. #3
    Aspiring Profligate Jeff488's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Nacogdoches, TX
    Posts
    1,106
    I would think it's not worth the hassle.
    Trying to turn the engine to the proper TDC position without removing sparkplugs(just one per side) would be a problem.
    Additionally, after a valve adjustment, would you not want to do a throttle body synch?
    '08 BMW R1200RT
    '08 Suzuki DL650 "Screaming Yellow Zonker"
    Looking for Ed Sanders' Truck Stop.

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Tularosa, NM
    Posts
    666

    Buy an RS

    KIDDING!!!!! (But only a little).

    Regards,

    Walking Eagle

    '94 R1100RS
    '78 R100RS (MS)

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff488 View Post
    I would think it's not worth the hassle.
    Trying to turn the engine to the proper TDC position without removing sparkplugs(just one per side) would be a problem.
    Additionally, after a valve adjustment, would you not want to do a throttle body synch?
    Well I plan on removing the plugs. I would just rather not remove all the tupperware if I don't have to. I do not have the required tools to do a Throttle body sync. I am at least going to check and adjust my valves as well as change the Alt. belt.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Walking Eagle View Post
    KIDDING!!!!! (But only a little).

    Regards,

    Walking Eagle

    '94 R1100RS
    '78 R100RS (MS)
    I don't get it but I'm glad you're KIDDING.

  7. #7
    DBLUPPR snookers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Niagara Wine Region
    Posts
    444
    Trying to turn the engine to the proper TDC position without removing sparkplugs(just one per side) would be a problem.

    With the bike on the center stand, luggage removed to lighten up the rear end and to have access to the rear wheel, place the bike in 5th gear and turn the wheel to turn ovr the engine in order to attain TDC. There's a write up about this method around here somewhere. It worked for me.
    2000 R1100RT , 2005 K1200S w/hack
    Niagara BMW Riders #298 BMWMCO #45
    "Always look on the bright side of life" (Monte Python)

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,663
    yeah, 5th gear turnover (always turning normal wheel rotation) via rear wheel is fine- IF you pull the spark plugs first, otherwise, it's a real bear to turn the motor over, and near impossible to get it to land on TDC.

    do you actaully need to pull fairing to get to the sparky plugs on an RT? if so- off comes the tupperware!

    if you're changing the alternator belt, you're going to need to pull the frontal area of the fairing (between steering "head" area and wheel)- so stripping it down for the valve adjust may be in your cards anyway.

    jsut buy or make a synch gauge (plenty of threads about what to use). your purchase cost is same of less than the $ you'll have given to the shop to do it once; and now you have it, can do it whenever, every check/adjustment after the first one is free, and the shop is rarely better than you will be,
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  9. #9
    Rally Rat
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    123
    Quote Originally Posted by Phone Guy View Post
    Well I plan on removing the plugs. I would just rather not remove all the tupperware if I don't have to. I do not have the required tools to do a Throttle body sync. I am at least going to check and adjust my valves as well as change the Alt. belt.
    You can certainly check the valves, but any adjustments will bring it out of synch and your bike will likely run WORSE than if you just left it me. Feeler Gauges, Allen wrench and home-made manometer are all you need to set the synch.

  10. #10
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,663
    Quote Originally Posted by jfremder View Post
    You can certainly check the valves, but any adjustments will bring it out of synch and your bike will likely run WORSE than if you just left it me(sic). Feeler Gauges, Allen wrench and home-made manometer are all you need to set the synch.
    true dat (plus screwdriver), if you want to do it on the cheap.

    not really, as the TBS was originally done (one must assume) for correctly adjusted valves. The TBs do not re-adjust themselves to keep in alignment with any changes in valve adjustment


    however, long term easiest/best is to just bite the bullet, do it right the first time thru, and rest assured that your bike is running as it should be, and that you DIY'ed it!
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  11. #11
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    3,128
    The answer to the original question is yes, it is possible to set the valves on an RT without removing the side fairing panels. And you can pull out a spark plug without removing anything other than the plastic plug cover and the plug boot connector.

    You could do the valves, take it for a 20 min ride and see how she goes. If it runs poorly then you definitely should pull the panels and do a TB sync. Be careful or wait till she cools off a bit. Header pipe burns take a _long_ time to heal! (Yes, I did...)

    There is much trepidation about pulling the tupperware on an RT the first time. Once you have done it a couple of times it takes ten minutes or less especially if you use a portable screwdriver/drill with a 3mm ball end hex driver bit like these:
    http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-11099-...6224958&sr=8-2

    I _always_ pull mine off to work on the bike. It just makes things easier and I usually wash the bike when it's bare. Washing is a great way to check the bike over; always a good idea.

    Putting the tupperware back on can be frustrating so here's a tip. Always start the screws by hand first. The tank top ones strip easy so be careful. Get the nose (oil cooler opening) and the back of the tank (in front of the seat, above the battery) ones in first. For some reason, this seems to align things and makes it easier to get all the rest in. Start ALL the screws and turn them in but do not tighten until they are ALL started. I use hand tools for this. These are probably the most used tools I have: http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumati...8&sr=1-1-fkmr0
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  12. #12
    DonaldMac dfmcintyre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Port Huron, MI - 60mi north of Detroit
    Posts
    45

    another assembly tool

    I've heard that one or two dull ice picks inserted at certain screw hole locations can help hold the fairings in place, prior to inserting the 100 screws...

  13. #13
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,663
    when removing the fairing screws, insert them into a cardboard panel that has been labeled or drawn to indicate original placement. there are different length screws, and they want to go back where they started.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  14. #14
    Thanks for the input. I decided to order myself a Harmonizer so I can do the TB sync as well.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ght=harmonizer

    I've had the plastic off several times.

  15. #15
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    3,128
    Good choice. You're going to love that Harmonizer.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •