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Thread: Throttle Body sync.

  1. #1
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    Throttle Body sync.

    I have a 2003 1150rt and, I'm going to try to sync. the TB's myself for the first time.Just curious what type of gauges everyone likes to use?
    Thank's,
    Sam

  2. #2
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    I've used the Morgan CarbTune and the TwinMax. Both got the job done but this thing beats them both. Very nice tool.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625

    There are a couple of YouTube videos out there too.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  3. #3
    Certified Beemerphile TheRoss's Avatar
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    I use and like the TwinMax. I am however a tool junkie and might look into the tool mentioned above.

    If you are real new to wrenching on these bikes, I would suggest buying Jim Von Badens maintenance DVDs. They are detailed and good, and pretty reasonable pricewise.
    Christopher Ross
    Lubbock, Texas
    IBA# 522
    2016 R1200RS, 2012 R1200GSA, 1975 R90/6 (x2)

  4. #4
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    Twinmax

    +1 for the Twinmax, BUT -- as with many things, you must follow the directions exactly, make sure that you re-set the sensitivity knob properly, don't bang the needle off the stops, and keep testing the 9V battery before use, as it has to be at least 8.5V to work properly. . .etc., etc. This device has detractors, but at least SOME of these haters aren't following directions, I'm betting.

    Article: Throttle Synching for Dummies over on ADVRider site. . .priceless.

    Opinions differ on the efficacy of doing an "exact" synch while riding the bike at highway speeds -- something that (I believe) is only possible by using the TwinMax, but "some say" that it allows for a more precise adjustment. . .and it IS easy to do.


    MANY great synch tools out there now, so read and research before buying -- they all seem to cost about the same.

    Have fun.

    Walking Eagle

  5. #5
    Registered User David13's Avatar
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    I just got the Harmonizer as mentioned on Advrider above.
    I'll try it. It looks really easy, and can be used while running the bike to get some under load balance, if you are of the opinion that is needed.
    There is the most controversy, I think with dial type gauges. However, I do know some that have used them for many years with good results.
    Motion Pro is the best of the tube types that I have seen.
    dc

  6. #6
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking Eagle View Post
    +1 for the Twinmax, BUT -- as with many things, you must follow the directions exactly, make sure that you re-set the sensitivity knob properly, don't bang the needle off the stops, and keep testing the 9V battery before use, as it has to be at least 8.5V to work properly. . .etc., etc. This device has detractors, but at least SOME of these haters aren't following directions, I'm betting.

    Article: Throttle Synching for Dummies over on ADVRider site. . .priceless.

    Opinions differ on the efficacy of doing an "exact" synch while riding the bike at highway speeds -- something that (I believe) is only possible by using the TwinMax, but "some say" that it allows for a more precise adjustment. . .and it IS easy to do.


    MANY great synch tools out there now, so read and research before buying -- they all seem to cost about the same.

    Have fun.

    Walking Eagle
    Hey WE! Where you been?

    At the end of the day one should used whatever one is comfortable with. I agree that the TwinMax is an effective synching tool when used properly but having used both I have to say the Harmonizer is simply a "better mousetrap". Lighter, less finicky and eliminates most if not all the deficiencies of "other" synchronizers out there.

    Looking at the points one at a time:
    - Eliminates the sensitivity knob. The Harmonizer auto calibrates at startup after it checks the barometric pressure where you are. No guesswork on "zero"
    - No needle to bang off the stops. The display is a smooth (not bouncy like TwinMax) with nicely de-bounced digital quartz display.
    - No need to remove and test the battery. The Harmonizer has a battery voltage indicator on the display. Dead batteries caused by forgetfulness are eliminated with auto shutoff feature.
    - I put a piece of electrical tape at the top of my RT windshield to protect the plastic, hook on the Harmonizer using the handy plastic clip provided (the device is not heavy) and go for a ride after I balance to check it under load. The hoses happen to be exactly the right length to do this. I can watch the road and the display without looking down which is very cool.

    Reading through the features list shows several items not found on any other synch tool product.
    Two other things I really liked:
    - See your exact RPM on the same screen as your balance readout. Very handy!
    - An LED light for better visibility (you can toggle it on and off)

    I'm not associated with the Harmonizer dude in any way, shape or form but I have to say he's done a really nice job on this tool and I have no hesitation in recommending it because I have tested it and used it.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  7. #7
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    +1 on the hamonizer.


    Goodbye Twinmax
    Goodbye mercury stix
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  8. #8
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    Noooooooooo

    HW, and others. . .

    OK, one or more of you guys have to come explain to SWMBO why it is that I now have to have ANOTHER strange device to do strange esoteric things, when I already have a set of vacuum gauges AND a TwinMax, both of which work just fine??? Jeez! I just bought a new torque wrench, and I already had two that work just fine. . .

    In fact, can you guys come explain to ME why it is that an itch has been started that can only be scratched with some, uh, scratch for a Harmonizer????

    You people are SICK!!!!! (Seriously, THANKS for the details on the Harmonizer, which sounds like a superior product to the rest of the offerings. I'm sold.)

    I'm never reading this site again. . .

    Walking Eagle

    p.s. I'm going through a friend's '78R100RS (MS) - winter project. Since I know NOTHING about Airheads (yet) I've been spending time over there on that forum. THOSE guys really do need professional help, and I'm not talking about mechanically.

  9. #9
    Certified Beemerphile TheRoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking Eagle View Post
    HW, and others. . .

    OK, one or more of you guys have to come explain to SWMBO why it is that I now have to have ANOTHER strange device to do strange esoteric things, when I already have a set of vacuum gauges AND a TwinMax, both of which work just fine??? Jeez! I just bought a new torque wrench, and I already had two that work just fine. . .

    In fact, can you guys come explain to ME why it is that an itch has been started that can only be scratched with some, uh, scratch for a Harmonizer????

    You people are SICK!!!!!.
    Are they the sick ones? I think not, and I have the same affliction. I too am a tool junkie. I must be fully self sufficient to continue avoiding service departments and continue saving big money. That requires the right tools for any possible job.... At least that's the justification for my wife when she asks why I need another whatever it is. I don't try to justifiy it to myself. I just like tools.
    Christopher Ross
    Lubbock, Texas
    IBA# 522
    2016 R1200RS, 2012 R1200GSA, 1975 R90/6 (x2)

  10. #10
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking Eagle View Post
    HW, and others. . .

    OK, one or more of you guys have to come explain to SWMBO why it is that I now have to have ANOTHER strange device to do strange esoteric things, when I already have a set of vacuum gauges AND a TwinMax, both of which work just fine??? Jeez! I just bought a new torque wrench, and I already had two that work just fine. . .

    In fact, can you guys come explain to ME why it is that an itch has been started that can only be scratched with some, uh, scratch for a Harmonizer????

    You people are SICK!!!!! (Seriously, THANKS for the details on the Harmonizer, which sounds like a superior product to the rest of the offerings. I'm sold.)

    I'm never reading this site again. . .

    Walking Eagle

    p.s. I'm going through a friend's '78R100RS (MS) - winter project. Since I know NOTHING about Airheads (yet) I've been spending time over there on that forum. THOSE guys really do need professional help, and I'm not talking about mechanically.
    Ha haaa! You're cracking me up W E ! Sorry for the trouble caused.

    Don't take this the wrong way, but my wife has uttered many of the same sentiments. You know... "What do you need THAT for!!! LOOK at all these tools! You haven't even used THAT one for years!" etc. etc. Don't tell her but in some cases, she is quite correct! Some things you don't need all the time but they sure are nice to have when you do.

    I can synch my bikes with the Morgan CarbTune and GSAddict synched my RT up even better with his TwinMax last summer. I was impressed with the result and ease of use. But when I read about the Harmonizer I was like... holy cow, this guy has fixed all the issues with both and packed it into a nice lightweight little box! The first time I used it I knew I did the right thing. Good tools just make things easier.

    I also have to admit that since my background is semiconductors and electronics and having built a lot of prototypes I cannot help myself when someone comes up with a great idea and executes well. I had to have one!
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  11. #11
    SportTourer
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    Cheap way of doing it...works even better!

    I made a simple magnahelic (sp?)gauge using cheap 1/4 inch vinyl tubing, some light weight oil and a yard stick. This is sometimes called a U-gauge. Bend the clear tubing into a U of equal lengths and zip-tie it to the yard stick. Fill the tubing with light weight oil, (colored oil is easier to see), until you have about a foot on each vertical rise of hose. You only need enough oil to see if you're pulling left or pulling right. DON"T use anything water based? If oil gets sucked into your engine, you get smoke. If water gets sucked into your engine, you get a big headache, depending on how much water was sucked in. First ADJUST THE VALVES AND ZERO THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS. Then, hang the magnahelic (sp?) gauge above the bike, and attach each end of the hose to the vacuum port on each cylinder (they're on the bottom where the rubber hose attaches). The 2 cylinder vacuums will then be pulling AGAINST each other. This is a really simple tool, but VERY accurate! Adjust the idle air screws in small increments on both sides, until the oil levels balance in the hose, you have a glass smooth idle (look in the mirrors for vibration), and are idling at around 1200 RPM. Next adjust ONLY the Right Side throttle cable so the oil levels balance in the hose at ~3500 RPM. Be careful not to over-heat your Oilhead! It's a tedious process of not-enough...oops, too-far, but when you're done your bike will run soooooo smooth. This simple tool will set you back less than 5 bucks and you'll be able to dial-in your Oilhead perfectly.

  12. #12
    when you say "zero the TPS".... when do you put it back to .370?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SportTour View Post
    I made a simple magnahelic (sp?)gauge using cheap 1/4 inch vinyl tubing, some light weight oil and a yard stick. This is sometimes called a U-gauge. Bend the clear tubing into a U of equal lengths and zip-tie it to the yard stick. Fill the tubing with light weight oil, (colored oil is easier to see), until you have about a foot on each vertical rise of hose. You only need enough oil to see if you're pulling left or pulling right. DON"T use anything water based? If oil gets sucked into your engine, you get smoke. If water gets sucked into your engine, you get a big headache, depending on how much water was sucked in. First ADJUST THE VALVES AND ZERO THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS. Then, hang the magnahelic (sp?) gauge above the bike, and attach each end of the hose to the vacuum port on each cylinder (they're on the bottom where the rubber hose attaches). The 2 cylinder vacuums will then be pulling AGAINST each other. This is a really simple tool, but VERY accurate! Adjust the idle air screws in small increments on both sides, until the oil levels balance in the hose, you have a glass smooth idle (look in the mirrors for vibration), and are idling at around 1200 RPM. Next adjust ONLY the Right Side throttle cable so the oil levels balance in the hose at ~3500 RPM. Be careful not to over-heat your Oilhead! It's a tedious process of not-enough...oops, too-far, but when you're done your bike will run soooooo smooth. This simple tool will set you back less than 5 bucks and you'll be able to dial-in your Oilhead perfectly.
    that is what is generally called a home made manometer. ATF works better. accurate, cheap and easy, but not very portable. can be made to work on any bike at all.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by R1100RS View Post
    when you say "zero the TPS".... when do you put it back to .370?
    read this http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/zero528.shtml
    explains the entire process. note: only do zero-zero if necessary, and "necessary" means you're bike has a surge that can't be tuned out via the regular valve adjustment & TBS procedure.
    i have never been compelled to do a 0=0, as my bike has never surged.
    Last edited by bikerfish1100; 12-21-2011 at 12:01 PM.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  15. #15
    SportTourer
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    My '99 1100RT didn't surge either, but I was amazed how far out the TPS were, even though the bike had just had it's 30K service at a BMW dealer right before I bought it. After I did the 0=0, idle balance, and high RPM balance, I couldn't believe how much better it rode, at all speeds.

    Since BOTH cylinders were now pulling EQUALLY, the low RPM, all torque, parking lot speed, performance was much, much better! Now I can lug it right down to idle and it won't stall. Pulling away from a stop is much smoother now too...hardly any need to slip the clutch any more.

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