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planning a trip 2 Nova Scotia> Niagra Falls

A couple of thoughts from someone who thinks Cape Breton is one of the most beautiful places on earth.
First, you'd be absolutely nuts to blow through any part of Nova Scotia from the Bay of Fundy eastward. Take your time here, it is gorgeous, with little traffic, and so much to enjoy.
Route-wise, as pointed out already the border crossing at Lubec via Campobello Island and the various connecting ferries is SOOO much better than the Calais crossing and Route 1 route. Slower, but. . .who can resist a tiny ferry that putters by fishing villages? If you're a trucker, take Route 1 via Calais but otherwise, go through Lubec and take the ferries.
Second, the whole Bay of Fundy area/Fundy Nat'l Park is a natural wonder that is not to be missed, and ripe for exploring on a motorcycle (yes, the roads are paved). The Provincial and national parks around the Fundy area are clean, uncrowded, well maintained and are terrific to stay at ; I'm sure there are good B&B's also. I've hit a few parks on the Northern side (the PEI side) that were overcrowded with none of the beauty of the Bay of Fundy. . .maybe just bad luck, tho.
Re: Cape Breton .. . .be aware that tourist season starts in June, and you WANT to go at that time (things close in the off season, including many restaurants, pubs and lodging) Bras d'Or is beautiful and the Cabot Trail (northern circle) is a must for scenery, but--do you like music? Following Route 19 down the west side (this is called the Ceilidh trail) will bring you to the musical heart of Cape Breton, including Inverness and Mabou. I highly recommend the Inverness Beach Village for lodging and a stopover. . family run, humble cottages but on a swimmable sandy beach. Be sure to stop in Mabou at the Red Shoe pub, and explore to the West as far as Mabou Mines, Mabou Harbour, and West Mabou. And go to a square dance--not just to dance, but to see the whole community--all ages from 3 to 90-- come out at once and have fun together.
The only problem with stopping and exploring in Cape Breton is that you won't want to leave.

Additionally, consider September as a good touring time. Campgrounds are still open and many of the tourists have taken their kids home for school and thus less traffic. Better weather too. Red Shoe in Mabou is a fine stop. Don't forget to stop at the Glenora Distillery on your way. - Bob
 
If you're a trucker, take Route 1 via Calais but otherwise, go through Lubec and take the ferries.

There's a brand new crossing SW of Calais/St.Stephen at Milltown that's designed for high volume unlike the old crossing on two lane city streets. It connects directly to Rte 1 in New Brunswick, which has had major construction the past few years to make it a divided highway. It's still being worked on in some sections. (Update your GPS maps) Very pleasant crossing and ride to the Salty Fog in 2011.

And yes, I've taken the ferry from L'Etete to Deer Island to Eastport -- beach departure and beach landing on Deer island and in Eastport. It's a good ride if you can take the time and the weather is nice.

Bumpy roads? I like bumpy roads.

Old crossing is near "A" -- New crossing at St. Croix reservoir. There is also another tiny crossing at Milltown between the two.

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Don't forget to stop at the Glenora Distillery on your way. - Bob
And if you're REALLY lucky - the Distillery might have a room cancellation the day you stop. If they do - TAKE IT. The whiskey is amazing ($$$ but still amazing), and the food and entertainment in the bar even more amazing.

One of those "glad I did it.." sort of stops. Something really memorable. You don't have to worry about drinking too much - no one I know could afford to..

Gotta get back to NS soon..
 
+1 on the Glenora stop. . . forgot that one.
One more important thing though- - the people in Nova Scotia are as nice as you will ever meet, from an ice cream stop to an emergency. Another reason to slow down a bit and take some back roads up there.
 
+1 on the Glenora stop. . . forgot that one.
One more important thing though- - the people in Nova Scotia are as nice as you will ever meet, from an ice cream stop to an emergency. Another reason to slow down a bit and take some back roads up there.

slowing down a bit can be meditative and pleasant. It may take a few days to decompress but when you do you can get into a nice little zone. People and places seem somehow more vibrant. However, your planning must include a stay much longer than plugging in a couple of days to "do Nova Scotia". With about 5,000 miles of shoreline roads it might take a spell to get to even half of it. Personally I think a /5 a perfect bike for the task..... but I'm biased.

Glenora's too pricey for my wallet but the visit is excellent, entertaining and very educational.... with top drawer Scotch (yes, they have now received Scotland's blessing to call it Scotch :clap

One more note: it is quite possible that a 'slow ferry' between Portland and Yarmouth may happen by summer. Worth keeping an eye on. - Bob
 
I found that 2 weeks is Nova Scotia, Was, if anything, just enough! I didnt want to leave.
Bob tell them about the Bakery near the ferry; I cant remember the name.
 
I found that 2 weeks is Nova Scotia, Was, if anything, just enough! I didnt want to leave.
Bob tell them about the Bakery near the ferry; I cant remember the name.

That must be the one down in Lahave on what we call the South Shore. Going south on route 103 take exit 10 and then #3 highway ( one of those backroads). Visit Mahone Bay and then onward into Lunenburg (stop here for a while and walk around and stay if you can!). Now, just out of Lunenburg on #3 take a left on #332 (Lighthouse Route) Soon you'll be in East Lahave. There's a little cable ferry that crosses the Lahave River. Get off the ferry and turn left and the bakery will be there on the riverside. Go in and listen, smell, look around ...... mmmmmmm. Great folks with equally great food (more in the bakery line) Sit and enjoy. A slight drift back in time can be had. Buy a little sumpin' fer later. That whole beautiful journey was only 16 miles long but you could easily spend the day.

Those that 'do Nova Scotia' on the main highway system (103 for example) are condemned to the most modest of experiences and will leave this beautiful Province without ever seeing it. Come and enjoy! Consider our Salty Fog Riders Rally in September as an option :thumb - Bob
 
More time or skip Niagra

My opinion based on a September 2011, 3 week trip to the Salty Fog.
Bob W. is the guru & his two thousanth seven hundred fifty post is true... slow down & enjoy a coastal ride like you can only dream of! You wont be sorry. The roads are fine for "sightseeing" speeds there, especially 2 up... they add character :blush
 
My opinion based on a September 2011, 3 week trip to the Salty Fog.
Bob W. is the guru & his two thousanth seven hundred fifty post is true... slow down & enjoy a coastal ride like you can only dream of! You wont be sorry. The roads are fine for "sightseeing" speeds there, especially 2 up... they add character :blush

:blush .... However, speaking of characters......:rofl Looking forward to meeting up again with you and Dara. - bob
 
From Quebec, it appears to get complicated. A preferable route would most likely be a northern one, away from busier roadways, staying away from Montreal?

Out of Ottowa, it appears the Rte 7 is a direct route that may be similar to our US hiways- smaller than a major motorway with at-grade intersections, down to Peterborough or Lindsay? from there a wide swing around North of Toronto somehow would be welcome, to arrive at lakeside in order to come into Niagra from the West, perhaps on Rte 3?

Don't know how easy that would be but any suggestions are welcome.

Tom

I have taken motorcyclist friends' advice and routes and gone around Montreal and I have also just taken the most direct route through that city. I prefer the most direct route.

Hwy 7 from Ottawa to Peterborough is a not too heavily travelled two lane road. You should enjoy that route. From Peterborough, there are a number of back roads, all north of Toronto that could take you to Orangeville and Erin and from there, head south to the Niagara region. Do visit Niagara on the Lake.

It will not be necessary to go as far south as Hwy 3 to reach Niagara as there a number of paved county roads north of Hwy 3 that will lead into Niagara, once you have an Ontario map.
 
Paul is right, once you get into Niagara on the Lake make sure you take River Rd.
south to Fort Erie, about 30 miles of million dollar homes 60 km road past
Niagara Falls. Lots to sightsee and beautiful ride along the niagara River.
 
SO much great advice...

you guys are awesome,

Thanks!

We may have to rethink this a bit.... of course our real problem is time. I am with all of you in that i don't like whirl-wind tours- they leave you feeling like you have missed the Heart and Soul of a place. To miss the H&S of Nova Scotia might be regrettable!

Perhaps, as someone suggested, we might just forget about going over to Niagra Falls, and spend the bulk of our time on Nova Scotia as everyone suggests, then meander over to Quebec for a taste of that great city (one night, maybe two), and just go home from there. It looks like we'll have two weeks, with weekends on either end.



Reality check please?

We definitely will take US 1 from Round Pond ME up to St John (if they open a ferry from Portland to (Yarmouth?) Nova Scotia, we'll re-think that). We'd probably want to take the slower route and the small ferries and crossings. I see a night in St John. Google Maps puts it about 5-6 hours from Round Pond to St John (?)

Next day, we take the ferry over to Digby, and meander our way along the coast for a full day to a night's stay in Lunenburg. it's unclear to me but i think it's realistic to expect to do this in a day of riding the slower, coastal roads?

I'll have to really look at the locations of that small beach, the Glenora Distillery, and the other nice suggestions, to see where along the way these places are- then we may adjust accordingly.

From Lunenburg, it looks like a full day up to Sydney? Sticking to the coast, maybe longer with another night's stay in there somewhere? We DO want to ride the Cabot Trail, and "do" Cape Breton. As i said, we will almost certainly get to the Distillery and the beach village mentioned above....

Leaving Nova Scotia, it seems like a solid two day ride to Matane? The ferry ride to Baie-Comeau and the ride down to Quebec in one day?

*****************************************************************

I really see this shaping up into two targets- Nova Scotia being primary and Quebec City (Olde Quebec) secondary- with some serious get-along up, to, between, and back. Well, *serious* being relative- with us still staying off the Superslabs, sticking to secondary roads... i guess by serious, i mean utility stops only with no real sight-seeing on these legs between, say, Nova Scotia and Quebec, for example, or between Quebec and home.
The Scenic riding days will begin in earnest when we leave Round Pond to go North to St John, and end when we leave Nova Scotia- tho from Baie-Comeau down to Quebec will be a leisure run, i think- this looks like an easy day's ride.

As for the roads, suspension, and whatnot, my 93 RS has the Ohlins gas shock on it, so i'm guessing the suspension is OK here- Ohlins was at the National last summer and i had those guys "tune" my shock- which was far off the factory settings. It's now set for my weight and riding style. My alternate ride is my 88 K100, also with a recently rebuilt (by the factory) Ohlins gas shock... so i THINK we can handle whatever comes our way. Our travel partners are on a new D/S Moto Guzzi- i don't see them having any issues at all. We're planning no camping, so there's a huge load of gear we WON'T be toting. I don't see the bikes being overloaded, or packed to capacity.

SO...
Thanks a million, everyone, for your input and suggestions. Please keep 'em coming. I love things like the small bakery, and the little beach village with square dancing. I think i can speak for everyone and say this is what we are looking to discover on this trip. This is the very stuff that, in my mind, comprises the heart and the soul of a place.

I've written this post before going back to the maps and PC, so please excuse if my proposed path has skipped any of the suggested stops.

Cheers, all!
Have a great day.

Tom
 
Tom,
That's a more realistic target. Take your time, Halifax is a lovely city, see Lunenburg, and spend at least two or three days on Cape Breton Island. Stop in at Pictou on your way to eastern Quebec, as well. You'll enjoy that pace much more.
 
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Tom,
That's a more realistic target. Take your time, Halifax is a lovely city, see Lunenburg, and spend at least two or three days on Cape Breton Island. Stop in at Pictou on yor way to eastern Quebec, as well. You'll enjoy that pace much more.

Thanks Dave,
looks like that's going to be the gist of our focus.
we'll look at Pictou.

Tom
 
I found that 2 weeks is Nova Scotia, Was, if anything, just enough! I didnt want to leave.
Bob tell them about the Bakery near the ferry; I cant remember the name.

more elaboration on the Bakery location, please? somewhere in St John? or Digby?

sounds like it's right up our alley!
small places for good local food are exactly what we are looking to discover. any and all info on out of the way or low key spots to eat is A-OK.

we've decided not to go to Niagra and to just spend more time on Nova Scotia.
we WILL get over to Old Quebec City for two nights.


we'll probably try the low key border crossing in St Stephen, might be a good place for lunch if anyone knows of a decent place in town there?
 
The bakery is not far from Lunenburg, towards Halifax. We spent several hours there.
If you visit Quebec city, you can leave your bike close to the info booth and take a bus for $3.00 to the old city. You will want to leave your boots behind and wear walking shoes.
 
The bakery is not far from Lunenburg, towards Halifax. We spent several hours there.
If you visit Quebec city, you can leave your bike close to the info booth and take a bus for $3.00 to the old city. You will want to leave your boots behind and wear walking shoes.

we are planning to stay 2 nights in Old Quebec City.

i was looking at reviews on Trip Advisor
(a fantastic resource BTW) but what i really want to know- is there a GARAGE?- isn't what folks are talking about in their hotel reviews...

any advice about hotels in Old Quebec would really help. i know it's gonna be expensive but what the heck- i also know it'll be worth it. and a nice chance to just get of the bikes completely for a couple days...
 
any advice about hotels in Old Quebec would really help. i know it's gonna be expensive but what the heck- i also know it'll be worth it. and a nice chance to just get of the bikes completely for a couple days...
Well - there is Le Ch?óteau Frontenac.. (been staying there on and off for about 40 years.. it was a LOT cheaper 40 years ago..) http://www.fairmont.com/frontenac

The Frontenac is the premier hotel in the old city.. and the prices reflect that, but there are some deals to be found at it if you shop with things like Priceline and Orbitz. Right across the street is IMHO one of the world's best resturants (Aux Anciens Canadians), and the Frontenac is right on the boardwalk/prominade. You can walk to almost any old-city attraction you want to, tour buses leave from right in front, the funicular to the lower old city is right outside.. It's a great location, and if you're only doing it once, it's worth the $$$$. When we've stayed there (about a dozen times now..) we parked the car and spent several days walking. It is safe to walk at 2AM in the morning in old Quebec..

Bikes aren't allowed in the old city.. but you should be able to find parking not too far from the gates. I believe there are public buses you can then take into the old city. Just outside the gates of the old city there are some large chain hotels like Hilton, etc. Not bad - but modern. Small hotels and B&B's are all over - in and outside the old city. They usually have some parking available (for a price.)

FWIW - the first time we stayed in the Frontenac - we first had a room for $17/night. It was up in very top of the tower, and we found out about the early AM 21 gun salute for some battleship entering the city.. so we moved down a few floors and paid $14/night. Things have gone up just a bit since then..

Gotta get back there soon - hmmm.... always wanted to do the winter festival.. (January-February..)
 
more elaboration on the Bakery location, please? somewhere in St John? or Digby?

sounds like it's right up our alley!
small places for good local food are exactly what we are looking to discover. any and all info on out of the way or low key spots to eat is A-OK.

we've decided not to go to Niagra and to just spend more time on Nova Scotia.
we WILL get over to Old Quebec City for two nights.


we'll probably try the low key border crossing in St Stephen, might be a good place for lunch if anyone knows of a decent place in town there?

see post #27; if you would like a map I can post. mmmmmm .... don't want to miss it eh? - Bob
 
see post #27; if you would like a map I can post. mmmmmm .... don't want to miss it eh? - Bob


got it Bob.
thanks. that's the kind of stuff i typically seek out, the little places that make up the character of a place, a spot the average person passing thru might not find.
 
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