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2011 GSA hard to shift

selyab

Member
My GSa with 6000 miles on it has become difficult to down shift. I have come to a stop several times where it did not want to downshift into a lower gear. So I end up stopped at a light stuck in 3rd trying desperately pumping the clutch while tapping to get into first. I checked the oil level in the transmission and it is good. Any ideas?
 
Usually the not wanting to shift into a gear means the transmission has spun down, ie - the clutch has been pulled for too long a period of time before trying to get it into gear. Motorcycle transmissions are different from car ones, they rely on large "shift-dogs" (squarish lumps on the sides of the gears) to allow gears to mesh, and on splines in the center of the gear mating with splines on the shafts the gears ride on.

If the gears aren't spinning, and the dogs aren't lining up male/female - the gear won't engage. The usual cure for this is to partly release the clutch to get the gears spinning, then pull it in and immediately put it into gear.

If this isn't the case - and yours won't shift immediately after pulling in the clutch, I'd say take it to the dealer - you're under warranty, and something is wrong. If you're new to BMW transmissions (which is unlikely given your list of bikes) - it's not uncommon to have this problem until you develop the technique. Even quite experienced BMW riders can have it when sitting at a light in neutral, after they pull the clutch in and hesistate a bit to put it into gear. A quick release of the clutch lever, followed by pulling it in, and shifting usually makes this a non-issue.

Good luck!
 
Same issue with my 2011 1200gs, down shifting letting clutch out in every gear no problems since. Coming up on 6000 miles dealer will syn. Oil in says it will improve shifting
 
I am finding this when I am coasting to a stop, which is the time you would normally start moving the transmission towards first gear, it gets down to third and thats when it balks going to second then first. I didn't think much of it the first time it happened a few weeks ago but it happened again this morning. I am riding 400+ miles a week on 4 different BMW's so I don't think it's "operator error".

As far as just take it to the dealer, I like to be armed with some expectations when I visit the dealer for service. I don't have time or patience for "couldn't duplicate" scenarios when tends to happen when you just leave it to them to figure out.

The service schedules I have been looking at don't show a transmission oil change at 6000 miles but I don't have the 2011 Service Manual either.
 
Were going to due the 12k service at 6k at least as far as tranny and final drive are concerned. Greg from long beach BMW has recommended this both will get 75-90 with moly added sin.
Same shift issue you have. Double clutch between down shifts help. If your at a stop and stuck in a higher gear it helps to partly let clutch out then down shift. I have been told this is typical of BMW trans.
Keep us posted on what you find
 
Different indeed!

My GSA1200, R100/7 and KLR650 all shift differently. Technique may be the answer, but IF you have a biker best friend, trade bikes on a ride around the countryside and see what happens? Maybe a best first option, before going to a dealer? Randy:thumb
 
Sucker won't go into 1st.

That should have been the title to this post. It's not hard to shift/clunky etc. It's sitting at the light stuck in 3rd gear and the sucker wont down shift into 2nd or 1st and now the light is green!!! Cycle the clutch multiple times while stabbing the shifter and finally get it into 1st. I have 6500 miles on this bike in the last 4 months and never had a problem until now. I was hoping someone would say the clutch needs adjustment or a shift fork might be bent. :fight
 
That should have been the title to this post. It's not hard to shift/clunky etc. It's sitting at the light stuck in 3rd gear and the sucker wont down shift into 2nd or 1st and now the light is green!!! Cycle the clutch multiple times while stabbing the shifter and finally get it into 1st. I have 6500 miles on this bike in the last 4 months and never had a problem until now. I was hoping someone would say the clutch needs adjustment or a shift fork might be bent. :fight

Well - clutch might not be operating correctly (AFAIK there is no adjustment, it's self-adjusting for wear) or you might have a bent shift fork.. You might make sure the clutch reservoir isn't overfilled. The level actually rises as the disk wears (sounds odd - but it does) and if it was overfilled it may not release fully...

BTW - how can you text this message to us while sitting at the light and trying to shift? Inquiring minds want to know.. :dance :wave
 
BTW - how can you text this message to us while sitting at the light and trying to shift? Inquiring minds want to know.. :dance :wave

I said it wouldn't go into gear, so what else is there to do but text? :brad Anyway, I haven't checked the clutch fluid level. Thanks for the input.
 
I had the same experience (problem) with my RT and stumbled upon a post here that has solved the problem for me. Before each shift, up or down, I preload the shifter before pulling in the clutch. Voila! It pops right into whatever gear I needed. I always am in first gear before rolling to a stop at a light or other destination.
 
"It's sitting at the light stuck in 3rd gear and the sucker wont down shift into 2nd or 1st and now the light is green!!!" (Quote)

You should never be stopped at a light in third gear in the first place. The essential need for SA (Situational Awaremess) should dictate this. It is your business to know what gear you are in. Your life can depend on it.

It is also your business to know how a motorcycle transmission works. Throw in the dry clutch which does a great job of separating engine from gearbox and you have the beginnings of the solution - understanding.

First, the dogs in the transmission must be in a position to engage. If the gears are not in position to mesh, all the stomping on the lever will do nothing to make it happen, and can only cause you great expense when you bend a shift fork.

If you are sitting in third gear, it may take several revolutions of the gear shafts to allow for engagement of second gear. That is not a good situation to be in. Fanning the clutch does nothing to remedy the situation, because neither shaft is capable of rotating at this point. The best you can hope for is to transit the "neutral" between gears, allowing the mainshaft to turn with the disengaging clutch to the point where you incur substantial shock loads on the dogs of second gear. My guess is that you don't want that.

So it should be your habit to make sure you are at least in second gear when coming to a stop. At that point, finding neutral is assured.

Here is a tip. Because the dry clutch of the R bikes works so good, the mainshaft will slow to a stop fairly quickly. If the shaft stops in an incorrect alignment to engage first (or any) gear, one of the shafts has to rotate. You can do it either way.....Fan the clutch slightly to get the mainshaft in motion, or rotate the countershaft by moving the rear wheel, easily done by rolling the bike backward (works best) a distance of less than one foot as you maintain SLIGHT pressure on the shift lever. It goes in every time, and without any unnecessary shock loads.

Take the bike out to a quiet parking lot and try the "move the rear wheel" technique. From neutral, pull in the clutch lever for, say, 5 seconds and try to engage first gear. If it goes in, try it again until it won't. At this point, keep that slight pressure on the shift lever, and roll the bike back until the shift lever depresses to engage first gear. Practice that a few times and you have your best, kindest and gentlest shift that can be made. Note that this technique works for the bike in any gear. It just may take more distance to make the gear alignment for the shift.

Good luck.

Paul
'05 R1200RT
 
Hey guys,

I don't stop at intersections in a high gear and then try to downshift. My problem has been that the transmission has refused to down shift at I approach a stop. That's how I find myself stopped in 3rd for example. I appreciate all the zen techniques about how I should shift but I have 15 years and probably 80,000 miles of dry clutch experience. I do intend to try the technique Paul suggests to get a stopped bike into another gear by backing up. Thanks.

And as for my "Situational Awareness" :sick
 
Simple test. If stopped the dogs might not line up. So, while lightly depressing the shifter pedal slightly let out the clutch to get things turning a bit. It should snick right into the next lower gear. If in 3rd, go to 2nd. Then repeat into first.

If this fails to work take the bike straightaway to the dealership and have them fix it.
 
Paul
Said what I was trying to say
play the clutch while working the shifter
If if fails return to dealer
 
I don't stop at intersections in a high gear and then try to downshift. My problem has been that the transmission has refused to down shift at I approach a stop. That's how I find myself stopped in 3rd for example. I appreciate all the zen techniques about how I should shift but I have 15 years and probably 80,000 miles of dry clutch experience. I do intend to try the technique Paul suggests to get a stopped bike into another gear by backing up. Thanks.

And as for my "Situational Awareness" :sick


Awesome response!! :rofl

No issues on my '11 shifting - are you planning to take it to the dealer? - free warranty use it while you got it! :lurk
 
Update

My dealer is backed up for a few days so I have time to troubleshoot it a bit. The clutch fluid quantity is good. I found the shift lever had migrated inboard about a 1/16" from flush on the splined shaft. Not too sure that influenced the free movement of the lever since it is connected to the gearbox with pushrods rather than directly and there is a bit of lateral free play in the shaft as well. I told myself that it was an improvement on my daily commute, all seemed smooth and normal. On the way home (42 miles), after making a stop 7 miles from home the problem came back multiple times so that is telling me the transmission has to be hot for this to happen. Never any issues shift up in the gears or down until I get to 3rd then it fights me to get to the lower gears. I did follow the advise and either shifted up a gear or lifted up on the lever which seemed to work. I had previously checked the gearbox fluid level and found it good. I said what the heck and changed the fluid last night but have yet to take it for a ride. Figured it couldn't hurt in case there is a little debris from manufacturing in the gearbox. 6000 miles since the running in check. No obvious metal in the old fluid but I will put a magnet in it to be sure. I also went to BMW synthetic gear oil from the golden (a little darker now) stinky stuff the dealer used. I am used to the sometimes clunky shifts from my BMW's but have never had any shifting issues before now.

Also, I popped for the extended warranty and this bike is only 11 months old!:dance
 
Two things:

1 - The gearbox spec's synthetic. Wonder why the dealer put standard oil in it. Synthetic is more resistant to viscosity change when the gearbox gets hot. Many of us use 75W-140 BMW synthetic in our gearboxes with good results.

2 - Make sure the extended warranty you purchased doesn't start until your factory warranty is used up. Many extended warranties start on the date of purchase, and the "term" would be X years from that date. I know the Contego Direct warranty has those terms, so when I purchased mine I bought it a month before my factory warranty expired.
 
I sometimes have trouble with my 2011 GSA. When down shifting or up shifting, if I don't let the shifter come back to its neutral spot, it does not want to shift. I have been playing with shifter location to find a good spot with my boot. I do agree with you that it is picky when messy with going in and out of first and second.
 
Found the problem

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The rod end connecting the shift lever to the gearbox had a bolt backing out that was catching the bottom of the control box for the exhaust valve.

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The control box kept the bolt from backing out completely but with a down shift it caught on the bottom corner of the box. The bolt is a 13mm and access is kind of tight. I tightened it up but will probably go back and put some Locktite on the threads.
 
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