$4 carb synchronizer

Would like some feedback from anyone who has built and used the $4 carb synchronizer I've read about.

$4 manometer

I built one and if the carbs are close enough it would work. Problem was if they were very far off the atf would suck up into one side and air would get into the atf makeing it useless. I ordered a carbtune. Uses ss rods instead of mercury. About $100 and have used it on my /6 as well as the GS.

I made one years ago. I have containers at the top to keep from sucking out fluid if the balance is off too much. The fluid just collects in those and bubbles until I get the balance closer. I made it for the oil head I used to own, but now use it for my airhead. Works great.

dpmonk said:

Problem was if they were very far off the atf would suck up into one side and air would get into the atf makeing it useless.

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My solution is to watch the stick as I start the bike, and if it's off too much, I kill the engine. I then make a slight adjustment, and start the bike again. I do this until it's close enough not to suck in any fluid. I only run into this problem when I've had the carbs/cables off. Otherwise, it's always been close enough not to suck in any fluid.

As far as using it goes, I've been happy with it. It's very sensitive and works better than the Twin Max I have.

yep kill the engine, make small adjustment. once you get good this allmost never has to happen. The other problem is that people are stopping over to use it. Then we have to have a beer, talk, shoot the breeze, go get more beer, look at a few manunals, rip someting else apart fix it . O this is why we have airheads.

My comments echo the others. At start up you will see if one side is rising too quickly and will suck in ATF --- quickly shut off bike and make an adjustment which is generally to screw in the throttle stop screw on that side. Both cables have been previously slacked off in the cable adjusters. Then start again and see the that one side rises slower.

I had trouble getting a good synch initially and keeping a good synch until I replaced the throttle cables. After new cables using the $4 tool worked great and would keep a synch between valve adjustment intervals. Also if the carbs are full of old o-rings and dirty or worn jets and needles it will be hard to get a good synch that lasts a while.

It helps slow things down if you put a restriction , like small hole carb jet, in each tube, or the tiny valves that come with the gauge type syncronizers. It will also eliminate the bouncing of the fluid in the tubes at slow idle.

GeorgeRyals said:

It helps slow things down if you put a restriction , like small hole carb jet, in each tube, or the tiny valves that come with the gauge type syncronizers. It will also eliminate the bouncing of the fluid in the tubes at slow idle.

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I agree with that. Its also how I fixed mine. except I made mine with small dowell and drilled a small hole in them. I made mine with hoses long enough so I could mount it on the wall. Used it for years. still hangs on the wall.

However I have since gone electronic

Made one, too

The only addition I have to the above comments is to put different colored tape on each end of the tube and and the corresponding side of the column. This way, when you're on your back, it's easier to remember which side corresponds to which carb.

Compared it to a Carbtune

I made one. Works great. But just to make sure, I recently (last week) compared the readings from mine with a carbtune unit I borrowed from my friend. Same results. In fact, I find my home made version easier to read because I used blue 2 stroke oil on a light background.
Worth the $4 for sure.