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Cam Chain Tensioner replacement--simplest method?

You don't have to really dissasemble the throttle body. Just disconnect the fuel line, slide the air tube back, remove the TB from the rubber spigot, and dangle it all out of the way.
 
PGlaves said:
You don't have to really dissasemble the throttle body. Just disconnect the fuel line, slide the air tube back, remove the TB from the rubber spigot, and dangle it all out of the way.
Click to expand...

What about the ground wire, and the TPS connector? When you say rubber spigot, do you mean unbolt the TB from the cylinder head?
 
When you are at the point of removing the lower portion of the old cam chain tensioner just use a magnet. It will leap up out of the hole.
 
mgordon said:
What about the ground wire, and the TPS connector? When you say rubber spigot, do you mean unbolt the TB from the cylinder head?
Click to expand...

You get more clearance if you loosen the ground wire. I've not disconnected the TPS. At the head, just loosen the clamp and slide the TB out of the rubber sleeve (spigot) but leave the spigot bolted to the head.
 
PGlaves said:
You get more clearance if you loosen the ground wire. I've not disconnected the TPS. At the head, just loosen the clamp and slide the TB out of the rubber sleeve (spigot) but leave the spigot bolted to the head.
Click to expand...

Awesome! thanks all...
 
Replaced mine over the winter bordom salted road days.Took it out when the salt was cleared and noticed it was less noisey.But it still rattles once in a while.Anyone else have this problem?
 
brewmeister said:
Yes that's what I used,a magnet on the end of a radio antena.It worked great.:type
Click to expand...

When I couldn't get the tensioner up fully out of the hole, I advanced the cam chain with the back wheel slightly until the tensioner dropped back down--lots more room to pull it up. Once I had the tensioner body removed and the spring was sticking out by itself a little slight pressure against the wall of tensioner hole as I removed the spring (rather than pulling it straight out) brought the plunger with it!
 
froggy said:
Replaced mine over the winter bordom salted road days.Took it out when the salt was cleared and noticed it was less noisey.But it still rattles once in a while.Anyone else have this problem?
Click to expand...

Did you replace it with another OEM BMW part or with the improved aftermarket unit? The BMW unit will continue to rattle as the oil drains from it.
 
schlitzohr said:
Did you replace it with another OEM BMW part or with the improved aftermarket unit? The BMW unit will continue to rattle as the oil drains from it.
Click to expand...

how do you figure?
the new upgraded OEM part is the only one available- the older style unit has been superseded by the newer one (common BMW behavior). I am completely unaware of any aftermarket part having been produced for this application. the part you now order from BMW for any year oilhead is identical to the item being used in the hexheads. either oil is no longer used to pressurized the tensioner, or it is unable to drain out of it (haven't looked at the internals to know for sure which method is employed).
 
Has anyone _ever_ heard of the old tensioner falling into the engine when being replaced?

The reason I ask is I stopped at Ozzie's BMW in Chico on the way home from the 49er rally a couple days ago and picked up the parts I need to replace mine tomorrow.
The mechanic there was telling me to make sure and remove the left valve cover and use a magnet to hold on to the bottom of the tensioner so it did not fall in when the top half is removed.

Since the tensioner is held up by the arm I cannot imagine how this could happen. :dunno
 
156327 said:
Has anyone _ever_ heard of the old tensioner falling into the engine when being replaced?

The reason I ask is I stopped at Ozzie's BMW in Chico on the way home from the 49er rally a couple days ago and picked up the parts I need to replace mine tomorrow.
The mechanic there was telling me to make sure and remove the left valve cover and use a magnet to hold on to the bottom of the tensioner so it did not fall in when the top half is removed.

Since the tensioner is held up by the arm I cannot imagine how this could happen. :dunno
Click to expand...





Impossible. The tensioner is held up by the chain.
There is absolutely no need to remove the vavle cover.
Check the link posted above.
 
Make sure that "mechanic" at Ozzie's never ever touches your bike.
Feces maximus.
 
bikerfish1100 said:
how do you figure?
the new upgraded OEM part is the only one available- the older style unit has been superseded by the newer one (common BMW behavior). I am completely unaware of any aftermarket part having been produced for this application. the part you now order from BMW for any year oilhead is identical to the item being used in the hexheads. either oil is no longer used to pressurized the tensioner, or it is unable to drain out of it (haven't looked at the internals to know for sure which method is employed).
Click to expand...

The new parts include a two-piece tensioner assembly that stays together, with a check valve almost but not quite identical to those on the F650/F800 bikes, plus the screw in outer housing that it goes into. It does have a check valve - on its top side, and sits with the male half at the top and the female half at the bottom making it "right side up" as far as drain down is concerned.

This contrasts with the old style which had the male half on the bottom and female housing on the top - no check valve - and a gravity path for oil to flow out.
 
nbsdave said:
Impossible. The tensioner is held up by the chain.
There is absolutely no need to remove the vavle cover.
Check the link posted above.
Click to expand...

I think he must have been pulling my leg or something. I've read the ADV link over a couple of times and have never heard of anyone having the bottom of the left chain tensioner fall into the engine. Maybe just looking for easy money for an easy job ?
Anyway, the new one goes in tomorrow. Thanks.
 
nbsdave said:
no spring in the upgraded tensioner, different piston and different cylinder
installed mine last month, not too difficult at all
look here, good info
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/CamChainTensionerSwap.html
Click to expand...

Actually, there definitely IS a spring in the new upgraded tensioner. It is inside the top of the cylinder and you cannot see it but it is there.

Place the piston inside the cylnder and squeeze it up. You will feel the spring in there.

I put mine in yesterday. Piece of cake.

And the old one did not fall into the engine. :D
 
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