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Just checked MAX BMW online, rod/crank bearing on '05 to '09 and '10 to '12 have same part number. Perhaps they did just change their mind after getting a bulk buy on 10W40 oil, that's now labeled "BMW" oil.
Just checked MAX BMW online, rod/crank bearing on '05 to '09 and '10 to '12 have same part number. Perhaps they did just change their mind after getting a bulk buy on 10W40 oil, that's now labeled "BMW" oil.
The '10, '11 and '12 models of our R1200RTs have an Owner's Manual recommendation of 10W40, then they list other possibilities. So what changed besides valve arrangement and method of activation? Apparently that is all. Interesting that this "head" configuration came from the HP2 and it had the very same oil weight recommendations. There's gotta be a reason, the head alone must be it.
The BMW dealer here in Seattle has always recommended 10-40 weight in my '09 RT that I purchased new in May of '09. Probably due to our generally cooler climate and rare hot summer days.The Cam Head has added out-of-plane shearing (wiping) and side-loading forces present at the cam lobe/follower interface that don't exist in the hex head, yet BMW now recommends 10W-40 for the Cam Head. They used to "recommend" 20W-50 for my '07 Hex Head, yet I know my '07 RT was delivered with BMW 10W-40 dino in it, and I continued to use it until I finally switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 at 12,000 miles. I think this now reflects a more modern and realistic view of the capabilities of current oil technology on BMW's part. The general trend now is toward "lighter" oil...with fuel economy/carbon emissions in mind, and BMW is admitting that modern 10W-40 is now more than adequate to the needs of the boxer. It may also be an attempt to recover some of the energy required to overcome the added frictional losses inherent in the Cam Head design vs the Hex Head. Of course, this is all just "picking-fly-specks-out-of-pepper" speculation...
I'd be surprised if the Cam Head's tolerances were any tighter than the Hex Head's, as they're essentially the same modern, air/oil-cooled engine with the only exception being the different cylinder heads.
Any concern about the fact the it's additive package is specifically designed for wet clutch?I'm of the old school in that I would not run synthetic before 10K. You will not hurt anything if you do that and you may improve the rings setting.
Once you have made the move to synthetic, You would do well to look into Red Line Synthetic as in my experience, it consistently outperforms the more well known brands; (this based on seeing the results of drivetrains which have been running Red Line over time). My cousin is the Technical Editor for the BMW Car Club of America and he swears by the stuff.
You will probably have to order it and keep your own supply on hand unless you have an enlightened auto parts store near you.
If you can't access the stuff without heroic measures, the BMW Synthetic while overpriced is VERY good and has more anti-friction additives than most.
That having been said, Mobil 1 is by far the most accessable of them all and not a bad choice.
Regards,
Will
Any concern about the fact the it's additive package is specifically designed for wet clutch?
Now for a question, does anyone besides me have a HAZET BMW filter wrench that doesn't fit the current filters? I had to drive a screwdriver into the old filter to get it off of the bike. No matter how hard I pushed, that wrench just wouldn't grab the filter enough to loosen it. Is it a new design to get us to buy a new wrench?
Now for a question, does anyone besides me have a HAZET BMW filter wrench that doesn't fit the current filters? I had to drive a screwdriver into the old filter to get it off of the bike. No matter how hard I pushed, that wrench just wouldn't grab the filter enough to loosen it. Is it a new design to get us to buy a new wrench?
No, viscosity is not what protects your engine. If you believe that you should try a really heavy weight gear oil in your engine. Perhaps molasses or honey would work well too since their viscosity is off the charts compared to plain old motor oil.But if you really read the report, you will learn that all oils, synthetic or mineral, will begin to lose viscosity around 3k miles, and this is what really protects your engine.
Just because a fluid has a high "internal friction" or "greater resistance to flow" does not mean it will protect anything better. It's a measure of how "thick" a fluid is, nothing else.Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear or tensile stress. In everyday terms (and for fluids only), viscosity is "thickness" or "internal friction". Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while honey is "thick", having a higher viscosity. Put simply, the less viscous the fluid is, the greater its ease of movement (fluidity).[1]
Viscosity describes a fluid's internal resistance to flow and may be thought of as a measure of fluid friction. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity
For any given weight, there is a range of acceptable viscosity values. Some oils, regardless if they are synthetic or mineral, are manufactured towards the low or high ends of those ranges. Thus, two 10W-40s can actually have a fairly big difference in actual viscosity. That may impact how you perceive the operation of your vehicle.Gunderwood
As for my response to the oil information, I am merely going from the information in the article and do not claim to be a chemical or fluid engineer, nor have I played one on TV. I do know that my Harley seemed much happier on mineral oil of the same viscosity than on Amsoil (which seemed much thinner and failed to stay loaded in the hydraulic lifters-leading to a hell of a clatter under acceleration.) I just tried to use this information to provide me with a middle of the road oil that would protect my engine. I have always said that any day that you can learn something is a good day. Thanks for the information.