2011 R1200 RT Motor Oil

tonk · May 16, 2011

I just did my first oil change on the new bike. I used Mobil 1, 15W-50 based on an oil analysis in American Iron magazine two or three years ago. AI is about Harleys, however, so I'm only assuming the analysis works for BMWs. I figure they're both twins, both relatively low-revving engines (although the Beemer revs a bit higher), so the same logic should apply. Maybe.

Having said that, I'm certain there are a myriad of opinions on the best oil to use for a camhead engine. I've done a bit of research and haven't found anything definitive. I suspect that oil sold by the manufacturer of any brand of motorcycle is probably a rip off. They all claim it's worth an inflated price just 'cause it's so darn good for their product.

Anyone have any actual data?

Retarded Jarhead · May 16, 2011

No data on the oil, but...

This is just an observation, question really...

Why synthetic oil so soon?

I am not being sarcastic here, my uderstanding was that (due to nikasil (sp)) coated cylinders the predominate wisdom has been to wait until near/past 10K to make the swap.

If you do have that many miles on the girl already I'm jealous because we have had far too much rain and cold around here.

Leaving for Chicagoland in the AM and lookin fwd to some sightseeing along the swollen Mississsippi.

roborider · May 16, 2011

I switched at 12k to synthetic on my 05 RT. That is what was recommended. I use M1 VTwin and I've had two analyses done. At 7000 miles on the oil, it still had enough buffering to go another 1000 or so. But I shoot for 6k.

M1 is good, but any oil meeting the BMW specs will be fine. I always say, I had an old airhead and it ran forever on dino oil. We baby these bikes!

tonk · May 16, 2011

Actually, I only have about thousand miles, and had the same question about using synthetic versus dino. Thought I needed to use dino to properly seat the rings. But someone, think it was a mechanic, at the dealer told me I could use syn from the git-go. Was he wrong? Now I'm worried. Dealer is closed today, but I'll call tomorrow and check again.

Gotta baby them. If you can't be anal about your bike, what can you be anal about? Be nice to them in the good weather, cause sometimes you're gonna really need'em to keep running when it's foul.

marchyman · May 16, 2011

BMW used to say this in their Rider's Manual

Engine oils of API classification SF or better. Engine oils of ACEA classification A2 or better. BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 10,000 km. Please do not hesitate to contact your authorised BMW Motorrad dealer if you have any questions relating the choice of a suitable engine oil for your motorcycle.

However, in the 2010 version of the Rider's Manual it now reads

Engine oils of API classification SF or better. Engine oils of ACEA classification A2 or better.

The bit about not using synthetics has been removed. Not surprising as the BMW recommended oil per the Rider's Manual for the newer bikes is now "Castrol GPS SAE 10W-40". That is Castrol GPS, not the older GPX. GPS is a synthetic based oil.

Retarded Jarhead · May 16, 2011

Tonk, my apologies for hijacking the thread but this is interesting.

That blows quite a few theories regarding ring sealing right out the window.

I am about to do an oil change next week when I get back for Chicago and I am glad this came up.

tonk · May 16, 2011

No, RJ. It's cool. When were you in? I did a hitch from '63 to '66, and the crotch and I parted with mutual relief.

I did some checking and I agree there is nothing in the owners manual about not using synthetics. (I noticed that BMW calls it "run in", not "break in" in a clear attempt to further confuse the issue.) I also called an out-of-state dealer (neither of the two in CT are open today), and the tech there said they're taught in school to use dino for the first 6k. Probably that's the safe thing to do, but I wonder if it's really necessary any more. Hard to believe BMW would obligate themselves to honor a warrantee if correct break in depended on info they failed to give you - and, in fact, had deliberately changed.

Another mystery for the truly anal among us to solve.

Retarded Jarhead · May 16, 2011

Yessir, I survived an extended tour from 1970 - 1996.

Retired as the Maint. Chief of a Helicopter Squadron at New River.

Obviously different heads, but I have no idea of any other differences that would require oil changes from my 08 GSA. I ran that for 16K before going to synthetic.

I find it interesting because at 2K miles now I get the slightest puff of blue smoke when it first fires.

To an old school engine guy that would indicate a valve guide weeping - no big deal.

Because I am Old and set in my ways I will go over 10K before going synthetic just because I am a stubborn old goat.

Amsoil is my choice. It's woked well in everything else I've owned and is universally accessible.

Semper Fi!

roborider · May 16, 2011

I think there is plenty of evidence to suggest the "early switch" to synthetic being a problem is BS. BMW cars have synthetic from the get go, don't they have Nikasil? I thought they did.

But, just to be safe, I switched at 12k miles. After all, Dino oil doesn't HURT anything, so I used it.

43883 · May 17, 2011

+1 with this. Did exactly the same thing - switched at 11,800 miles. Went with Mobile 1 cus it's easy to get and of course it's good stuff. I used to use Slikolene on my ST1300 but it is hard to find. My Honda did not have that clunk going into 1st gear when the engine was cold when I used Slikolene.

Btw, I thought oil discussions were not allowed.

tsp
2010 R1200RT
Blog: www.swriding.blogspot.com

RoboRider said:
I think there is plenty of evidence to suggest the "early switch" to synthetic being a problem is BS. BMW cars have synthetic from the get go, don't they have Nikasil? I thought they did.

But, just to be safe, I switched at 12k miles. After all, Dino oil doesn't HURT anything, so I used it.

tonk · May 17, 2011

I break a rule? Darn.

Anyway, here's the correct and final skinny on synthetic. BMW ships the bikes (or at least my bike) with dino oil. After the first 600 miles, it's ok to replace the dino with synthetic, as the dealer does. The kid who told me this works in their service department and seemed to know what he was talking about.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

roborider · May 17, 2011

But there's the problem. My BMW mechanic says not to switch until 10-12k miles, and they at this dealer don't go synthetic until that time. It's that conflict that causes the confusion. To me, I still say it is BS and the engine will be fine, period. Others will chime in that I'm wrong, and I may be. I went the conservative route as I wasn't willing to put my money where my mouth is, and again, Dino is not "bad" oil. You can run that engine on dino oil for its entire life w/o an issue.

tonk · May 17, 2011

LOL. This is great. We need to stand both mechanics off at about 20 paces and open fire.

By the way, synthetic at the dealer was about $14.50/qt. Mobil 1 is about six bucks less. Could be they push the synthetic hoping you'll get it at the dealer's. But if it was going to void the warrantee, don't think they'd do it. On the other hand ....

I need to get a life.

ponch1 · May 17, 2011

I have a 2009 (bought new last November) and I will switch after 6000 miles. It's been 1500 since the first service and the oil level is down a quarter of an inch, so it's hardly burned anything. I've read some people blow through a quart in that time when it's new. YMMV. I'll probably use Mobil 1 when I make the switcheroo.

marchyman · May 17, 2011

RoboRider said:
But there's the problem. My BMW mechanic says not to switch until 10-12k miles, and they at this dealer don't go synthetic until that time.

Tell your mechanic to stop being so 2009.

roborider · May 17, 2011

When my 05 RT was new, for the first 6000 miles or so, it was like it used more oil than gasoline! Just cruising around, not much, but in aggressive twisties, I'd add about 1/5 QT in 400 miles of twisties.

mpmarty · May 17, 2011

When I bought my first BMW a 2004 RT and rode it home from the dealership I hadn't read the manual yet and pushed it hard for its first hundred miles, running in fourth and fifth gear at speeds close to a hundred miles an hour on the highway. That bike never used a drop of oil in 38,000 miles I had it and is still going strong with its new owner. I used 20/50 oil from the dealership then. Now my 06 RT is getting Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic 20/50 or Mobil 1 V-twin 20/50 whichever is cheapest. I bought the 06 used with 13,000 miles on it and never did learn what oil the original owner used. It too uses no oil between changes. :dance

1analguy · May 18, 2011

Mobil 1 V-Twin is formulated specifically for air-cooled H-D V-twins, which have a different set of lubrication demands than our RTs do. My '05 Night Train has very few plain bearings in its dry-sump engine. Mechanical bearings can get by with an oil mist for lubrication, so the v-twin runs relatively low oil pressure. H-D oil doesn't see the shearing action that our high-pressure plain bearings do. The challenge for H-D oil is strictly thermal in nature...that rear cylinder runs hot. Conversely, the current wet-sump boxer's oil requirements are much closer to automotive in nature. All higher-oil-pressure plain bearings (more shearing load), oil-cooling (less thermal load), etc.

I only point this out because, when switching to Mobil 1, you're probably closer to the ideal oil for your current boxer if you go with one of their automotive oils rather than V-Twin. When I did my pre-winter-storage oil change last fall (at 12k miles), I did switch from BMW's 10W-40 dino to 15W-50 Mobil 1. Being retired now, I could no longer afford BMW dino oil. Mobil 1 is 25-30% cheaper than BMW dino around here!?! :clap

ponch1 · May 18, 2011

1analguy said:
Mobil 1 V-Twin is formulated specifically for air-cooled H-D V-twins, which have a different set of lubrication demands than our RTs do. My '05 Night Train has very few plain bearings in its dry-sump engine. Mechanical bearings can get by with an oil mist for lubrication, so the v-twin runs relatively low oil pressure. H-D oil doesn't see the shearing action that our high-pressure plain bearings do. The challenge for H-D oil is strictly thermal in nature...that rear cylinder runs hot. Conversely, the current wet-sump boxer's oil requirements are much closer to automotive in nature. All higher-oil-pressure plain bearings (more shearing load), oil-cooling (less thermal load), etc.

I only point this out because, when switching to Mobil 1, you're probably closer to the ideal oil for your current boxer if you go with one of their automotive oils rather than V-Twin. When I did my pre-winter-storage oil change last fall (at 12k miles), I did switch from BMW's 10W-40 dino to 15W-50 Mobil 1. Being retired now, I could no longer afford BMW dino oil. Mobil 1 is 25-30% cheaper than BMW dino around here!?!

So you are saying that the Mobil 1 V-Twin doesn't meet the specifications for the RT? If it doesn't, we shouldn't use it, if it does, regardless of your premise, we can use it without negative consequence. Considering the oil analysis someone here did with that particular oil and the results, I would say that your premise is incorrect. IIRC, there are other V-Twins that are air-cooled that don't use ball or roller bearing. Mobil's oil has to meet a broad enough set of requirements, not just for a HD.

bikerfish1100 · May 18, 2011

its really simple. use an oil that meets the correct specs as stated in the manual. It does NOT need to be BMW branded oil (you guys do realize that BMW does not now, nor have they ever, made their own oils, right?)
For my 2001 oilhead, that means using 20W50 of SF or SG rating. For that, i will use a m/c specific oil, as NONE of the car oils i have seen (including Mobil1) meet that standard.
I believe that M1 V-Twin does, but have never bothered to use it as the price is more than i am willing to spend. I just bought some dino Castrol m/c specific for $2/qt at Autozone (on sale to end of month), some Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50 (up to 6qts with a max $50 rebate thru end of month- basically free), and i normally run Castrol ACT-Evo m/c specific semi-synth 20W50. Those all meet the standards that BMW has stated for these bikes.
You want to call it differently than that? Well, your bike, your choice.

2011 R1200 RT Motor Oil

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