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Thread: 2006 R1200RT ABS brake bleeding

  1. #16
    Small road corner junkie pffog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmkahuna View Post
    ....................

    or 18 ft/lbs, which in retrospect, seems quite low.
    Pretty shaken by the close call....I don't feel very confident of that value now, or maybe my memory with the damn torque wrench. Can you guys confirm, or tell me what values you use?
    That is why I never use a torque wrench, except on engine components and Cyl heads.

  2. #17
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    Re that DOT3 question.
    Always use at least what the factory specs. Unless the spec calls for 3, don't, and even then you might want to use 4 or 5.1 (NOT 5!!) that are all by definition compatible with DOT3.

    I've had bad experiences with some DOT3's gumming very easily causing stuck pistons so never use it even when it is the original spec now that 4 and 5.1 are available. I use BMW DOT4 in my bike and Motul 600 in all my 4 wheel stuff because I keep a lot of it around for track use vehicles.

    The use of Ford DOT3 by racers as noted in your referenced thread is obsolete and comes from ancient texts by Carroll Smith. It boils at far too low a temp to survive track use in modern, fast and heavy cars because their brake temps get too high. I've seen many examples of folks using it having problems. You might get away with it in something like a Spec Miata that can't hit 130 on the straights of most tracks but it will surely fail in a 'vette or Viper that is a lot heavier and will top 150 in the same spots. mvsquared, etc - mass and speed equal more heat.

    I own the tools needed to measure boiling point of brake fluid in a vehicle and have made hundreds of such measurements. From them I can tell that it is essentially a myth that brake fluid boiling points degrade greatly from absorbing moisture from the air - typically I measure 10 degree drops in badly discolored but not obviously contaminated or dirty fluid. What does go out quickly (and the discoloration serves as a fair indicator of) are the anti-corrosion additives in the fluid that degrade in the presence of dissolved air in the fluid. Also obvious is that if you get enough water in system so it separates and collects anywhere near a piston, you are in danger of boiling that water because pad backers are at the rotor temp and up against the piston - but you have to do something pretty stupid to get that much water in a brake system. Dissolved air in brake fluid is a problem and can degas (in effect "boil out") when fluid gets hot. Some race teams have actually gone to the trouble to heat brake fluid prior to filling system to drive it out but that's pretty extreme.

    The published wet boiling points come from the most extreme possible abuse- equilibration of fluid in a water saturated atmosphere. This is not about to happen in your bike with its sealed reservoir and rubber diaphragm. 2 yr old fluid on my RT comes out almost as clear as when it went in except that very small particulates form in the bottom of the reservoir. I remove those with a syringe prior to flushing the system so the they don't get pushed into the expensive ABS bits.

    And I'm with pffog on torque wrenches. I spin bolts in by hand and torque by feel with the exception of certain engine fasteners and similar though I own 3 torque wrenches for various ranges. I don't use one on brake systems- waste of time. Also, it is wise to pay attention to what bolts go in dry, which get threadlockers (and what type), etc...
    Last edited by racer7; 06-02-2011 at 03:09 AM.

  3. #18
    Registered User
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    Servo Assist Brake Bleed/Flush Funnel Tool

    Beemer Boneyard has a funnel ready made that fits perfectly.

    Servo Assist Brake Bleed/Flush Funnel Tool
    Regular price: $49.95
    Sale price: $34.95

    See here:

    http://www.beemerboneyard.com/abs3funnel.html

  4. #19

    Hi. I need tithe procedure for bleeding '06 R1200Rt brakes

    Hi. I am a new owner of an '06 R1200Rt and a new member to this site. I require the the above mentioned procedure. I tried to open the PDF mentioned in this thread and it was not available. I have bled all 4 circuits but the brakes are very grabby so I expect the other bleed valves on the module need to bled in a certain order for each circuit.
    Can someone please direct me to the right info/procedure?
    Thank you

  5. #20

    +1 on NLA Brake Bleed PDF

    Folks seem to be quite pleased with the contents, but the Link no longer works...

  6. #21
    Aspiring Profligate Jeff488's Avatar
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    Try this.
    It will take you to apage with a download button.

    http://advrider.com/index.php?resour...ervice-v2-0.7/
    '08 BMW R1200RT
    '08 Suzuki DL650 "Screaming Yellow Zonker"
    Looking for Ed Sanders' Truck Stop.

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