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Thread: Stick coil help!!

  1. #1

    Stick coil help!!

    With no dealer in my home state, I'm going to have to replace stick coils and plugs myself and my repair manual isn't very enlightening. Can someone give me a step-by-step breakdown of the procedure? It's a 2004 RT.

  2. #2
    Rally Rat
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieAllnutt View Post
    With no dealer in my home state, I'm going to have to replace stick coils and plugs myself and my repair manual isn't very enlightening. Can someone give me a step-by-step breakdown of the procedure? It's a 2004 RT.
    disconnect wire connector from stick coil
    remove stick coil
    remove plug
    install new plug
    install new stick coil
    reconnect wire

  3. #3

    A follow-up question....

    Can this be done without the official BMW plug socket puller, #12 3 520, and spark plug wrench, #12 3 510? Or will ordinary, less high-end tools suffice?
    Last edited by CharlieAllnutt; 04-09-2011 at 11:18 PM.

  4. #4
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    The spark plug deepsocket in the toolkit is fine; I stick a fat screwdriver thru its holes to loosen & re-tighten. (Contrary to what some may advise, I also apply a tiny bit of oil + moly grease to the plug threads before re-installing - it is an interface between dissimilar metals.) Any thin-wall deepsocket of the right size should also be fine.

    It is strongly recommended to blast the airflow ports on the head with high-pressure air, to kick out all the little stones & debris that collects around the spark plugs, prior to loosening them. Places to point the air hose into are: directly into the plug area from the center of the head; directly into the exhaust port area; directly into the intake port area. Repeat.

    The plastic "cap" (stick coil) puller in the toolkit is pretty flimsy, and a poor fit, especially after it has been used a few times. After slipping its lips into the grooves on the outer (top) end of the coil, squeeze GENTLY to lock the lips into place, and pull STRAIGHT out. This may require a little "gentle persuasion" if they haven't been pulled in a long time. They will "pop" when removing or re-installing.
    (If you don't get a small pop when re-installing, the cap/coil may not be fully seated.) If you are a believer in dielectric (silicone) grease on the booties, make sure it stays on the rubber only and doesn't get migrated onto the actual connection.

    The after-market metal pullers area better fit and will last forever. While not especially cheap, as with any good-quality tool, you only have to buy it once.

    Don't try to pull the cap without a proper tool - they are easily damaged.

    The coils are pretty expensive; are you sure one or both has a problem?
    Test (one at a time): depress the little retainer on the 3-wire connector at the top (outer end) of the coil and remove it. (No this will not damage the ignition system.) If the motor displays zero change when idling, yes that coil is nfg.
    Note that this works only for the stick coils - if you remove the lower/outer plug wires, that may damage those coils. Disconnecting the primary side of those coils is a bit of a PITA due to their remote buried location.
    Last edited by Pauls1150; 04-09-2011 at 03:58 PM.

  5. #5

    Stick coils.....

    The job is looking less intimidating than I originally thought. I did order an aftermarket puller, just to be safe, and already have some thin-walled sockets for the plugs. Coils are on order from BeemerBoneyard, and I hope they have more life left than those I'm removing. -g-
    I don't usually gamble and buy parts before having a firm diagnosis, but wasn't sure of test procedures. Symptoms are slow cranking when cold and a rough idle until the engine warms up. I have to help it along with the throttle or it will die before warming up. Once it heats up, it runs great, except it begins to feel a little rough at higher speeds (80+ mph). Coils? I suppose we'll see. Anyway, thanks for the help!

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