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Fuel quick disconnects

jcbappliance

New member
Are the CDC brand QDs on my 1150RT good or bad. They appear to be stainless steel but I don't know if they're the right ones. I have the side off of the bike for a few days. If there are better QDs I'll change to them. Any opinions?
 
Have they been working okay? If so, why change?

I agree with this sentiment if they are metal and the O rings are holding up. But if they are plastic they can look fine one minute and fracture the next. Sometimes because you disturb or touch them; sometimes just because.
 
I put a set of Colder Products (CPC) quick disconnects on my 1100RS and have been very happy with them. Both sides have valves in them that prevent any fuel from spilling out when they're disconnected. They also have viton o-rings that are fuel safe.

Just make sure to get the 5/16 barb size, it corresponds to our metric size of hose.
 
Get the ones from www.beemerboneyard.com
Pricy but after breaking two in my garage and having to yell for my wife to round up clamps for the open fuel line before setting the house on fire I've had it with the plastic garbage.
 
Several people have posted before about these brass ones from smallparts.com.

http://tinyurl.com/4hy7x8f

The price is certainly great! I bought 3 this winter and will be installing them shortly. Two for the bike and one for a tank drain line. 30 bucks for the whole deal.
 
Maybe they're CPC and not CDC. The ones on the bike look just like the ones in the picture. Even the logo that I must have read wrong. Thanks for the help.
 
Several people have posted before about these brass ones from smallparts.com.

http://tinyurl.com/4hy7x8f

The price is certainly great! I bought 3 this winter and will be installing them shortly. Two for the bike and one for a tank drain line. 30 bucks for the whole deal.

The problem I see is that the O Ring on these is a Buna-N which is for gaseous applications and does not have the characteristics to resist petrol like the Viton O Rings. Keep an eye on them. I'd be interested in how well that O ring holds up to fuel applications.

Personally, I'm going with the Boneyard kit because of the Viton O rings. You could piece the kit together for less, but they have assembled a complete kit, with spare O rings, sealant, and hose clamps. For less than $80, they've done all the work for me and I'm willing to pay a bit more for that level of detail and service.
 
BeemerBoneYard Q ..

"Both sides have valves in them that prevent any fuel from spilling out when they're disconnected."

Does the BeemerBoneYard set also have this capability? Valves in both ends of the QD?
 
I believe the QDs (stock and Boneyard) are valved only on the female end. [edit-see post below] But the side that needs the valve has the valve. That is, I have disconnected mine many times and you only get a few dribbles at most, so it is not an issue.

It is funny that the Buna-N o ring is really for gaseous compounds yet has a valve to prevent liquid flow when disconnected. We use connectors like this with these O rings for pumping chilled ethylene glycol so I guess the type of liquid is important. But you can't beat Viton O Rings.
 
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FWIW, the Beemer Boneyard QDs have liquid shut offs on both sides, while the Small Parts ones only have a shut off on the female side.

Either can be made to work satisfactorily, but the Boneyard ones can be installed backwards to each other (to prevent incorrect hookup), while the others must both be installed the same way (requiring careful consideration when reconnecting).

JP
 
I believe the QDs (stock and Boneyard) are valved only on the female end. [edit-see post below] But the side that needs the valve has the valve. That is, I have disconnected mine many times and you only get a few dribbles at most, so it is not an issue.

It is funny that the Buna-N o ring is really for gaseous compounds yet has a valve to prevent liquid flow when disconnected. We use connectors like this with these O rings for pumping chilled ethylene glycol so I guess the type of liquid is important. But you can't beat Viton O Rings.

Buna-N is a nitrile compound seal and actually is suitable and recommended for gasoline, diesel etc. according to what I have read.

http://www.atlanticgasket.com/materials/nitrile-buna-n-gasket-material.html

There are riders who posted in another thread who have used these for years without problems.
 
FWIW, the Beemer Boneyard QDs have liquid shut offs on both sides, while the Small Parts ones only have a shut off on the female side.

Either can be made to work satisfactorily, but the Boneyard ones can be installed backwards to each other (to prevent incorrect hookup), while the others must both be installed the same way (requiring careful consideration when reconnecting).

JP
These inexpensive brass quick disconnects are installed backwards to each other also. Without disconnects installed, when I disconnect my tank fuel lines, the return line starts draining fuel out of the tank, unless my fuel line clamp is in place of course. :) You put the female disconnect on that end, coming from the tank to prevent this when you disconnect.

The other line (the fuel pump line coming from the tank) gets a male since it only dribbles a few drops when you take the tank off. I put a rag under the lines when I pull them apart to catch this.

You make a drain hose with some old fuel line or whatever and third male end that plugs into the return line to the tank so you can drain gas in a controlled fashion.

The Beemer boneyard quick disconnects are a fine product I am sure but you are still going to need a third set to make a drain line if all four pieces seal up when disconnected. How are you going to drain your tank when you remove it for service? You either need a third disconnect or you need to remove one which takes the "quick" out of quick disconnect.

FWIW, I spoke to SmallParts.com over the phone and they checked with an applications engineer. The Buna-N seals are synthetic and are indeed suitable for gasoline and other petrochemicals.
 
FWIW, the Beemer Boneyard QDs have liquid shut offs on both sides, while the Small Parts ones only have a shut off on the female side.

Either can be made to work satisfactorily, but the Boneyard ones can be installed backwards to each other (to prevent incorrect hookup), while the others must both be installed the same way (requiring careful consideration when reconnecting).

JP

I don't understand how you figure both "must" be installed the same way. :scratch
 
These inexpensive brass quick disconnects are installed backwards to each other also. Without disconnects installed, when I disconnect my tank fuel lines, the return line starts draining fuel out of the tank, unless my fuel line clamp is in place of course. :) You put the female disconnect on that end, coming from the tank to prevent this when you disconnect.

The other line (the fuel pump line coming from the tank) gets a male since it only dribbles a few drops when you take the tank off. I put a rag under the lines when I pull them apart to catch this.

You make a drain hose with some old fuel line or whatever and third male end that plugs into the return line to the tank so you can drain gas in a controlled fashion.

The Beemer boneyard quick disconnects are a fine product I am sure but you are still going to need a third set to make a drain line if all four pieces seal up when disconnected. How are you going to drain your tank when you remove it for service? You either need a third disconnect or you need to remove one which takes the "quick" out of quick disconnect.

FWIW, I spoke to SmallParts.com over the phone and they checked with an applications engineer. The Buna-N seals are synthetic and are indeed suitable for gasoline and other petrochemicals.

I don't drain my tank when I remove it. I just remove it. Not sure why I would bother to drain it. It has some weight, but not so much I can't lift it off. I have a syphon though if I had to.

Yeah, the information you posted conflicts with what I know of Buna-N, but yours is in writing so you win that one!
 
This discussion got me off the sofa and I installed the Boneyard kit tonight. It was simple. Like mentioned, it is a nice kit with the exact parts, thread sealant, and hose clamps. I think it was worth the cost.

My plastic connects were in fine shape (2005 with 55k miles). I even beat them with pliers and they just laughed at me. But I do a lot of distance travel and didn't want to take the chance on a failure. Also, I often ride with guys on Harleys and if my BMW EVER breaks down I will not hear the end of it....
 
Buna-N chemical compatibility charts

Here are a few links to chemical compatibility charts for Buna-N

http://www.pep-plastic.com/pdf/ChemGuide.pdf

http://www.sisweb.com/vacuum/o-rings/buna.htm

http://www.robinsonrubber.com/pdfs/NitrileRubber.pdf

In my day job, I work with all kinds of dangerous and corrosive liquid streams and read these charts all the time. The charts always fudge a little bit, just to be on the safe side. For everyday riding, Buna-N would be fine. However, for extended very cold (< 20 oF) or very hot (110 oF <) temperatures, someone might want to install Viton just to be on the safe side.

BTW, I tried looking around and could not find the pump pressure produced by our Oilheads for the injectors. Anyone know, just curious.
 
Call me crazy, but had the plastic ones break in my hand while trying to remove the gas tank for the first time. I added the tie wrap just to make sure they weren't coming apart until I was ready.
 

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1995 r1100rs

Main question: I've had my RS for several months now and I'm preparing to replace the fuel filter. Inspecting the fuel lines I do not see any quick disconnects. When did BMW start installing these? Do you recommend that I add them now? If so, I think I'll go with the one's on Beemer Bone Yard.

I'm also tempted to move the fuel filter outside the gas tank, but I think I'll leave that for a future project. Anyone done that? Are you glad you did it?
 
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