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Valeo Starter re-hab

gstom

New member
A few years ago I was passing through and stopped in Grassroots BMW in Cape Girardeau, Mo. Noted airhead Guru John Simmons gave me a few tips on maintaining my 92R100GS in tip top running order.

One of his tips involved taking the starter apart, cleaning it and re-lubing it to prevent drag which leads to overheating which leads to the magnets falling out.

I cannot remember all the details involved in doing this. Does anyone have suggestions or advice on performing this service on the starter? Type of solvent to use in cleaning, type of grease, what to grease, etc? Mine is starting to drag when disengaging.

Thanks for any advice.
 
"Starters" haven't changed too much in the ninety years since they were invented; pretty basic stuff. Just pay attention to what you're doing, clean everything well, and apply grease in an adequate, but sparing manner.

Anton Largiader's rebuild article is a good one.

This is an automotive starter, which is basically what airhead starters were/are.

Automobile_starter_2.JPG


1. Main Housing (yoke)
2. Overrunning clutch
3. Armature
4. Field coils (no need to remove)
5. Brushes (remove carefully and note location for re-installation)
6. Solenoid
 
No BMW Valeo's don't look anything like what's pictured. Gear reduction, field coils and brush holders being the MAJOR difference.

Magnets are bonded in place, gear reduction housing, and brushes aren't at all like that either.

Gear reduction housing.
IMG_1076.jpg


Magnets bonded in housing. NO field coil

IMG_1078.jpg


Armature for oilhead, airhead is a little different.

IMG_1087.jpg


Brush housing- a bad one though.

IMG_1100.jpg


You can get MOST of the parts to rebuild the Valeo.
 
Dragging?

Just an observation here but.... You say your starter is beginning to drag. This will be obvious upon taking it apart as the magnets or field coils along with the armature will show signs of rubbing. You need to plan on replacing the bushings that serve as bearings for the armature. These bushings wearing allow the armature to shift out of place and rub the coils or magnets. Replacing the bushings is easy. All you need is a bushing tool. It is inexpensive and looks like a punch except the end will have a flat on one side and be round on the other. It will also have a sharp bevel like a chisel on it. You can easily make this tool using a regular punch, about 1/8th' dia or slightly larger and a bengh grinder. The idea is to use the tool, flat side towards the bushing and round side to the housing to collapse and split it. The bushing can then be pulled out with a pair of needle nose pliers. To install the new bushing you really need a bushing drift. It is another simple tool. It will be a shoulder punch with the smaller diameter a close fit to the ID of the bushing and an OD larger than the hole the bushing goes into. The smaller dia. will be no longer than the bushing. This tool will allow the bushing to be driven into the hole without deforming it. You can get by without this tool if you are very carefull and press it in rather than tapping with a hammer. You can use a drill press or a vise to do this job.

Richard... Great photos! They explain a lot to the inexperienced mechanic.
 
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