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Thread: Valeo Starter re-hab

  1. #1
    Rally Rat gstom's Avatar
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    Valeo Starter re-hab

    A few years ago I was passing through and stopped in Grassroots BMW in Cape Girardeau, Mo. Noted airhead Guru John Simmons gave me a few tips on maintaining my 92R100GS in tip top running order.

    One of his tips involved taking the starter apart, cleaning it and re-lubing it to prevent drag which leads to overheating which leads to the magnets falling out.

    I cannot remember all the details involved in doing this. Does anyone have suggestions or advice on performing this service on the starter? Type of solvent to use in cleaning, type of grease, what to grease, etc? Mine is starting to drag when disengaging.

    Thanks for any advice.

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    In the Resources and Links area, there's a list of several starter rebuild websites. Most are for Bosch but there's one for Valeo's:

    http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r-elec.html

    Look them all over to get ideas for cleaning, etc.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    "Starters" haven't changed too much in the ninety years since they were invented; pretty basic stuff. Just pay attention to what you're doing, clean everything well, and apply grease in an adequate, but sparing manner.

    Anton Largiader's rebuild article is a good one.

    This is an automotive starter, which is basically what airhead starters were/are.



    1. Main Housing (yoke)
    2. Overrunning clutch
    3. Armature
    4. Field coils (no need to remove)
    5. Brushes (remove carefully and note location for re-installation)
    6. Solenoid
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  4. #4
    ONE LESS HARLEY 04r1150rs's Avatar
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    No BMW Valeo's don't look anything like what's pictured. Gear reduction, field coils and brush holders being the MAJOR difference.

    Magnets are bonded in place, gear reduction housing, and brushes aren't at all like that either.

    Gear reduction housing.


    Magnets bonded in housing. NO field coil



    Armature for oilhead, airhead is a little different.



    Brush housing- a bad one though.



    You can get MOST of the parts to rebuild the Valeo.
    Richard
    2004 R1150RS
    1984 R80 G/S
    2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S

  5. #5
    John. jstrube's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    In the Resources and Links area, there's a list of several starter rebuild websites. Most are for Bosch but there's one for Valeo's:

    http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r-elec.html

    Look them all over to get ideas for cleaning, etc.
    Where is the resources & links area? I checked the header like in Hexheads, but didn't see one.

    John.

  6. #6
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JStrube View Post
    Where is the resources & links area?
    John -

    It's in a separate forum here:

    http://forums.forums.bmwmoa.orgdisplay.php?f=76

    It's not specific to Airheads, although most of what is there started from my collection of Airhead related links. Since then, I've been adding links from a variety of resources as I run across them.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #7
    copandengr
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    Dragging?

    Just an observation here but.... You say your starter is beginning to drag. This will be obvious upon taking it apart as the magnets or field coils along with the armature will show signs of rubbing. You need to plan on replacing the bushings that serve as bearings for the armature. These bushings wearing allow the armature to shift out of place and rub the coils or magnets. Replacing the bushings is easy. All you need is a bushing tool. It is inexpensive and looks like a punch except the end will have a flat on one side and be round on the other. It will also have a sharp bevel like a chisel on it. You can easily make this tool using a regular punch, about 1/8th' dia or slightly larger and a bengh grinder. The idea is to use the tool, flat side towards the bushing and round side to the housing to collapse and split it. The bushing can then be pulled out with a pair of needle nose pliers. To install the new bushing you really need a bushing drift. It is another simple tool. It will be a shoulder punch with the smaller diameter a close fit to the ID of the bushing and an OD larger than the hole the bushing goes into. The smaller dia. will be no longer than the bushing. This tool will allow the bushing to be driven into the hole without deforming it. You can get by without this tool if you are very carefull and press it in rather than tapping with a hammer. You can use a drill press or a vise to do this job.

    Richard... Great photos! They explain a lot to the inexperienced mechanic.
    Robin Coleman Marion, Arkansas, Retired locomotive engineer.

    "All my life I dreamed of retirement so I would have the time to play.. Retirement is here now but I'm so broke I can't afford to pay attention"!

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