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Complete Restoration of BMW R75/5 into Cafe Racer

Status

Sooo o .. .. what's going on in the "rear set" fabricating department?

Josh is getting everything ready for powder coating, he is on vacation in Mexico right now and enjoying the waves, he is a big surfer. He is a jack of all trades really. Pretty neat fellow, never met him, but I have every intention of flying to Southern California when the bike is done and meet him and take it for the first spin. Maybe spend a day or two at Pelican Hill, my wife just loves that resort, let kids play in the sand while Dad checks out the bike, we will see what 2012 brings but hopefully we will finish the bike this coming year. Happy New Years everyone, I will keep you up to date as we go forward. Paul from the Vintagent is going to call Dane next week and get some information for the story with any luck, takes some months for him to finalize and put everything to paper from what it sounds.

thanks again every,
Shane
 
Photo

Here is a photo of the exhaust, I believe it is fron Europe.

Thanks,
Shane
 

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Keihan =
images
 
Drive Shafts Pulled from Swingarms

Josh did a little more disassembly getting us one step closer to powder coating the frame, have a great weekend,

Thanks,
Shane
 

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Shane,

I know one thing for sure, from personal experience ... while the "coupler bell" on the end of the drive shaft, can be removed with a good puller, a little heat, and a dead-blow hammer, reinstalling them, with 150-180 ft. lbs. of torque (as spec'd) will require the BMW tool to keep it from rotating while torque is applied to the nut. The mating taper-fit on the end of the drive shaft, and the inside of the bell, is the only thing that secures that joint; there are no splines, or key. If it's not blue-torqued on there is a pretty good chance that it will break loose and spin.

Locking up the u-joint end, to torque the bell, is risky because it was designed with no more than the torque of the engine/gearbox in mind, roughly 43 ft. lbs. (58 N?Àm); between this and the drive shaft itself loading up (twisting) and disrupting torque-wrench indications, it's not an accurate way to go about reassembly.

After I took mine apart for painting I ended up shipping the whole thing up to Ted Porter to ensure that the bell was properly torqued.

Just another niggley little detail to be thinking about while the swing arm is being painted.
icon_wink.gif
 
Thanks

Shane,

I know one thing for sure, from personal experience ... while the "coupler bell" on the end of the drive shaft, can be removed with a good puller, a little heat, and a dead-blow hammer, reinstalling them, with 150-180 ft. lbs. of torque (as spec'd) will require the BMW tool to keep it from rotating while torque is applied to the nut. The mating taper-fit on the end of the drive shaft, and the inside of the bell, is the only thing that secures that joint; there are no splines, or key. If it's not blue-torqued on there is a pretty good chance that it will break loose and spin.

Locking up the u-joint end, to torque the bell, is risky because it was designed with no more than the torque of the engine/gearbox in mind, roughly 43 ft. lbs. (58 N?Àm); between this and the drive shaft itself loading up (twisting) and disrupting torque-wrench indications, it's not an accurate way to go about reassembly.

After I took mine apart for painting I ended up shipping the whole thing up to Ted Porter to ensure that the bell was properly torqued.

Just another niggley little detail to be thinking about while the swing arm is being painted.
icon_wink.gif

Thanks for the head up, Josh reads this thread so he is aware of any pointers sent our way, it is much appreciated, thanks for following,

Shane
 
Clean Up - BEFORE PICTURE

Josh did some elbow grease on the Final Drive, getting ready for paint as well.

Thanks,
Shane
 

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So...

Is this bike going to be a SWB or a LWB? My bike is built on a LWB frame but I've been thinking off-and-on about making it a SWB. That would make a real fun bike!

Also... Are you going to have your swing arm braced before powder coating it? If you haven't thought about that, I'd highly recommend that mod for both safety and performance reasons. The /5 and /6 swing arms can and do twist under hard acceleration and braking and not only can you feel t but you can see it!

With the extra torque that you'll be putting through your drive train, you'd do well to discuss that with your builder.
 
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