s fairing

Are there any s fairing specific threads that I am missing...I did a search and couldn't find anything really specific to the ins/outs of installing, parts lists, resources, etc. I am on the hunt for one for my bike...

Eric,

There are several, my favorite is this one:

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=16427&page=1

I'm just finishing up a S fairing installation on my 77 R100. Ask any questions you might have.....

I am planning on writing up a summary of my experience with installing a S fairing on a naked R100. There are alot of small undocumented steps that I am trying to capture in one document and share with the forum. Many of the points I gathered up while researching and doing the installation.

Diamond in the rough, but there are many points you should know about when installing a S fairing on a naked bike,

I did the evilbay bidding thing and a used beat-to-shiat fairing was selling for 90% what a new one sold for so don't rule out a factory NEW unit.

Many of the finer points were brought to my attention asking questions here where the collective patiently answered them all......

----------------------- cut here -------------------------


Hello,

I wanted to share with the forum my experience with installing a factory S fairing on a naked R100. Much what I documented below can be found in a splattering of posts found in BMWMOA.ORG. I wanted to gather my thoughts and experience in one post with emphasis on the odd-ball 'not documented' little things that can derail your project.

First, I found the BMW fairing is very competitively priced when you look at the other 3rd party S fairings when you add in the dash etc. . For me, the authentic look of the factory fairing with the brass inserts and labels was important for my project. I should note (as of December 2010) the factory fairing is a one-piece molded plastic with metal inserts inside it for the 'L' brackets. Some third party fairings use glass-in metal tabs that simple do not look right or does not convey the factory look. One fairing I researched actually had the dash molded with the main body. As I said in the beginning, once you add everything up, the BMW fairing is competitively priced.

Don't attempt to install a S fairing without replacing the turn signal stalks with the longer version. The S type are about 3/8in longer. If you can find a nice used set go for it. US dealers want about $130/ea for them. A little shopping around I found the exact same parts (BMW PNs) from an European dealer for $50/ea shipped!

To replace the stalks you have to pull the handle bars, shock top threaded plugs, top plate of the tree, and the two headlight 'ears' on the shocks. Note the turn signal wires are routed through the ears and through the stalks to the turn signal lamps. I won't hold back about the 'fun' of disassembling the top end of the shocks yet it is necessary step to do the job right. Routing the signal wires through the ears at assembly is sort of like a 3D puzzle. Feed, push, feed, push, rout, try not to pinch anything, etc. Heck, I thought pulling the shock caps (with the spring load underneath them) was going to be the problem. That was easy. Routing the signal wires was the PIA!

Speaking of the shock caps, to loosen them I used an impact driver with a custom modified 36mm socket. I found the socket on evilbay for $10 shipped. I guess many European cars have oil filters that are installed with a 36mm socket. The mod done was to remove about 3/16in of the purchase so the full socket mated with the thin profile of the cap.

My bike had the standard rise handlebars with the '81 handlebar mounted disk brake reservoir. A test fit of the fairing showed me the interference of the reservoir with the fairing. I guess I could have rotated the bars to clear the fairing but it didn't have look I was looking for. It reminded me a HD 'low rider' with pulled back bars. Definitely not for me. I guess the standard handle bars would have worked with the 'under the tank' brake system but I can't verify it.

The solution was to get the R90S type of bars which has a ~ 1 1/2in less rise versus the standard bars. I sourced the bars at www.Flanders.com. You could leave the clutch cable alone but with the less rise, the cable gave the appearance of 'bowing' along the right down tube of the frame but it did not look professional. So, I purchased the medium and short length clutch cables (from BMW) and decided the short length cable provided the correct relief and still hugged the frame like it is suppose to do. This is one area where you don't want to pinch the pennies, therefore, get the correct cable and install it.

My naked R100 had the volt and clock installed on the shocks using the BMW (VDO?) mounts. The power cable was a homemade hybrid starting with a BMW factory harness. Wiring was good and was neatly routed underneath the speedometer/tachometer pod. With upgrading to the S fairing, I elected to invest in the BMW harness that is still available from the dealer. The wires are correctly color coded and it has the 90deg spade connectors with the rubber boots. As with any harness that enters the headlight shell, there is a dedicated hole on the port side of the shell for it. One secret I learned was to push the rubber grommet up on the new harness until it is off the outer jacket of the harness. Route each spade connector through the opening. Then install the wear grommet into the hole. A pinch of liquid soap will help to convince the grommet to seat itself squarely in the hole. Now, gently feed the harness into the hole to the outer jacket. Fold the end of the outer jacket into a "W" to reduce its diameter. With a dull tool, gently feed the jacket into the grommet until it extends about 1in inside the shell. Again, a pinch of liquid soap will cut down on the friction and help with the installation. I have never seen if there is a correct routing of the harness from the shell to the dash, I simply believe it follows the inside curve of the fairing to the cutouts in the middle of the dash.

I was lucky because the individual pods used the S fairing top mounts on the shocks. Unclear if the mounts were chrome from the factory or if the PO chromed them, however, I decided to stick with polished stainless steel for the two short extension arms and the "L" brackets that connects the arms to the inserts on the upper portion of the fairing. The polished hardware looks great, won't rust, and fits perfectly. By the way, almost all the factory mounting hardware is still available from BMW.

If you ever looked at the exploded views of the S fairing mounting hardware, it can be confusing and possibly wrong. At one time the port turn signal stalk must have used a one-piece molded 'eccentric' rubber mount versus a two piece mount that is used on the port side. I guess a design change occurred (ie bean counter's cost reduction) and the one piece was eliminated and replaced with the two piece mount. In the end the port and starboard sides share an identical mounting system to the turn signal stalks.

So, how exactly does the hardware (on the stalk) get assembled? I think (jury is still out) it goes this way:

"stalk- thick washer -eccentric mount- fairing -second half of the eccentric mount- horse shoe washer "

In the exploded view it is unclear which half of the mount gets installed behind the fairing (towards the shock) first. IF you look at the mount, it is sort of like a bushing with a shoulder on it. It is obvious the small diameter goes through the fairing, but does it go from the inside out, or from the outside in ?

Installing the fairing takes considerable 'pucker' patience and a gentle touch. I installed the thick washer and eccentric bushing on the stalk (both sides) and installed the fairing on the left turn signal stalk. Now, *gently"pull and slightly twist the starboard side being careful not to pull too much or twist too much the fairing. Be careful and do not pinch the signal wires as you are struggling with the starboard side installation. To protect the paint, I used the 3M paint protection 5mil clear film on the inside and outside of the fairing around the mounting holes. No kidding, it is a tight fit.

The factory windshield is installed with push-pin rivets. They are plastic and can break if not pushed squarely into the base. I heard there was a installation tool but never saw a picture of one. So, I designed my own from aluminum rod and a 1/8 steel drill rod.

Thanks for the info! Good stuff...I certainly will be in contact to ask questions as they come up when I start the project. Thanks much for the offer.

Just my 2 cents worth. First, rather than replacing the stalks with the longer model, I used the aluminum turn signals from a /5 and they fit easily without the extra length.
Then for the 2 extension pieces for the fairing mounts, I went to the hardware store and bought a piece of pipe for the toilet water inlet. I cut them to length and just took a hammer to the ends and drilled holes. Saves time and money.

Anyone ever get a s fairing from cafe racing parts?

Yep. I have ---- from BoxerWorks, but I have yet to paint and install them (fairing and seat).

The quality of the fiberglass is very good. I'll be posting a "build thread" very soon.

I have the longer turn signals already on my bike. I also have the mounting 'plates' but need the rest of the hardware...and a fairing. I am just getting started slowly acquiring parts.

Are there any bushings or washers that Go INSIDE the fairing?? This is not clear to me by looking at the microfiche.

I have all the parts that BMW Viking illustrates...what else do I need?

eric11 said:

Are there any bushings or washers that Go INSIDE the fairing?? This is not clear to me by looking at the microfiche.

I have all the parts that BMW Viking illustrates...what else do I need?

Click to expand...

My mounting kit included two steel washers that aren't shown in Dean pic. I'm not sure mine is mounted right, but I have steel washers on turn stalks, eccentrics from inside fairing to out, w/ rubber ring ans slotted steel cover on outside, been good for 6-7k miles, fwiw.

I had a hard time rotating eccentrics to get even gap around headlight.

The two steel washers are correct. They mount on the signal starks.

order:

"stalk- thick washer -eccentric mount- fairing -second half of the eccentric mount- horse shoe washer "

My setup is the same as awshucks. No problems with it.

I think at one time the eccentric washer was one piece and the dwgs show that.

Eric,

Seriously consider new 'S' handlebars too. It makes a big difference in the look with the fairing.

Thanks for the order of the parts. I think I am missing the steel washer. Should I get the BMW one or is there an equivalent at the hardware store?

have the euro bars...love 'em.

S fairing without holes for the turn signal stalks

I have a beautiful fairing that looks great on 77 R100/7 correction, will look great when I get it mounted. Looks fabulous attached with a bungee chord!
This unit doesn't have holes for the signal stalks. It's a used unit with a BMW mounting kit that may not have all the parts?
After mkt? I suspect, but this fiberglass fairing is in perfect shape.
Anyone out there have experience with mounting a fairing like this?

bones -

Can you upload a few pictures? That will help us figure out where to go.

S fairing without holes for the turn signal stalks

I'll give it a try

S Fairing Pics

20774 said:

bones -

Can you upload a few pictures? That will help us figure out where to go.

Click to expand...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ftfRNicak12huZXn6

Does this link offer you the photos?

Yes, I can see the pictures. Not sure if this is a true R90S type fairing, but you might look at this link on the Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owner's Knowledge Base. Maybe it will give some ideas.

https://vintagebmw.org/library_data/r90s_fairing_installation_english.pdf

I notice a piece of paper with a name, Hutchinson and what might be a phone number. Also, there's a part number near the name. If you go to RealOEM and type in that number, you get this page:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...973_2476_BMW_R75_6&diagId=46_0059#46631234405

Does that help any with the installation?

Just for fun ...

The Airhead tool kit included a 36 mm wrench. The hammer you needed to successfully use it wasn’t.

“VDO” in the copied post is irrelevant, as the auxiliary gauges are Motometer.

The brackets that mount the gauge pods on bikes without the fairing are the same brackets used to mount the fairing. Same gauges wiring harness too, I think.

In the first years of the S, there were different part number handlebar switches for the S—shorter wiring harnesses. This may have changed in later years.

Trivia: in 1978 BMW riders were getting crazy about mounting Vetter or Luftmeister fairings (it was one year yet to the RT) and to accommodate the market the USA marketer created some R100S bikes without the S fairing and instead with the usual /7 bars and the auxiliary gauges included mounted in pods. And, you got all the other S stuff like rear disc brake, higher (than /7) compression motor, and 2.91 axle.

So, I bought one of these in red smoke (553) but I fitted the S fairing. Not long after that I converted it all to an RS, which was a much bigger effort. Bought that fairing from—can you guess—Capital Cycle. My dealer filled out some paperwork identifying my bike as an R100ST ... which was not official with BMW. R80ST in 1983 iirc.