K1300GT dead Battery

Anyone have this problem? I ride my bike to work temp is around 30 degrees, bike sits outside all day, 9 hours later battery dead no start. Jump bike ride home 24 hours later battery has 12.6 volts starts just fine....thanks Mark..

It takes amperage to turn the bike over. You can be showing good voltage when the battery is not under load. If the bike won't turn over, you don't have the amps available, and the battery needs to be replaced. In cold weather the internals of the bike have contracted and more amperage is needed to turn over the cold parts. If you take your meter and check the voltage as you are hitting the starter, the voltage will significantly drop off if there isn't enough amperage available. I tend to be very hard on batteries during the winter as I have a short (4 mile) commute and hook up my gerbing liner. This doesn't give the system a long enough period for the charging system to fully charge the battery. Typically, even with the Odyssey battery, anything under 18 degrees is usually a no start situation.

I had my stock battery replaced within 6 months under warranty

When not riding the bike is on charge

The best thing to do is get the dealer to load test it - that is how they found mine

Thats the good news, the bad news is they replaced it with the same oem battery

Considering changing to the Odyssey battery

As I can't ride right now and the winter is here - I will ponder that over the winter.

Stock battery in a friends K-GT failed this way a few weeks ago. If it was right off a ride or charger, it would fire the bike fine but if left overnight or longer, wouldn't. Couldn't deliver any current if it sat for a while but would fire the bike right up again after a few minutes on a charger.
His also had developed a very small acid leak around the post but the volume leaking was not enough to explain the failure- though perhaps that cell had evaporated out over time.

He bought an Odyssey but any decent battery will fix your problem. Yours is toast.

Re the Odyssey- I've used them for many years in track cars that see a charger regularly. However, they have unusual charging requirements needing a higher voltage than the stock battery. So determining voltage compatibility of the bike is critical- it might only deliver a partial charge.
Also, though as AGMs they hold a charge much longer the flooded batteries, IF you kill one I can guarantee to you that you won't recharge it with the typical low amp maintenance charger no matter how long you leave it hooked up. Charging a dead one needs a higher amp output charger= 6A min and 10A is better. (I use an old charger I've got that was meant for "maintenance-free" batteries with calcium in the plates in cases lke this because I have it and it works but few of you are going to have one of these oddities in your garage. It has to be shut off manually, of course, becasue it wasn't designed for AGMs)

And if you want to install a handy device to monitor your battery so you can spot when its failing, one good one is the Battery Bug PS model. $50 but a cute display that is better than just a few leds. Or you can use any voltmeter that has a direct readout to 0.1V. The principle is keeping track of how low the voltage drops under starting load.

Decent bike jumpers are cheap at Motorcycle Superstore and elsewhere. A good thing for cold weather riders to have handy- you're not going to be able to bump start a modern fuel injected bike. Carbs and magnetos can be goods things in the winter.........(as long as they're not the old vacuum SUs on Brit sports cars that had no accelerator pumps- we carried a coke bottle full of gas in the door pocket of a TR-3 and poured it over the wire mesh air cleaners in cold weather to get a rich enough mixture to start. With the slow cranking speed and vacuum carbs, there was no other way except expenisve starting ether. Don't miss having to check the oil level in the carbs either)

Dead cell

Dealer replaced Battery under warranty, thanks for all the info..