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Thread: Removal of stripped screws/bolts

  1. #1

    Removal of stripped screws/bolts

    I have a 15 year old bike that had a couple of screws (phillips) and one hex head bolt that the heads are stripped.

    I have tried to drill them out a with fluted screw extractor after spraying with WD40 to no avail.

    Anyone have any ideas before I need to take it to the dealer to be charged $32,895.39 for the removal?

    BTW these are on the small size with the largest 20x6mm the others hold on the body pannel.

  2. #2

    Removal of stripped screws/bolts

    I have a 15 year old bike that had a couple of screws (phillips) and one hex head bolt that the heads are stripped.

    I have tried to drill them out a with fluted screw extractor after spraying with WD40 to no avail.

    Anyone have any ideas before I need to take it to the dealer to be charged $32,895.39 for the removal?

    BTW these are on the small size with the largest 20x6mm the others hold on the body pannel.
    Last edited by wzellwzell@yahoo.com; 12-06-2010 at 03:34 AM.

  3. #3
    Is there enough access to get a dremel tool in so you can cut a slot for a standard screwdriver?
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  4. #4
    Unfunded content provider tommcgee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorradMike View Post
    Is there enough access to get a dremel tool in so you can cut a slot for a standard screwdriver?
    +1 This always works for me.
    Salty Fog Rally 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012, 2014 And DRAT! Missed the last one in 2015!

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  5. #5
    Registered User rebake's Avatar
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    pictures of the screw heads and locations may get you better answers. Ed

  6. #6
    Registered User mpmarty's Avatar
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    I've found on "stripped" phillips screws that fitting a Reed and Prince tip to an impact driver often solves the problem. The R&P tip is more "pointy" than a #2 phillips and bites better. The impact driver is always the way to go if the item the screw is stuck in is solid enough to withstand a good whack with a bfh.
    Marty - in the western Oregon mountains.'06RT, (gone '04RT, '86 Venture Royal, '81 Yamaha Virago920, '82Suzuki GS1100GK, '76 Suzuki GT750, Triumph 750 Bonneville, BSA Road Rocket 650, 61" Harley knucklehead)

  7. #7
    I will get some pictures if it ever stops raining (maybe tomorrow).
    The hex head may take a cut with a dremmel, however the phillips have had their heads somehow removed.

    Also, I posted this in error on the gear forum. Does anyone know how I can remove it?

  8. #8
    I've had very good luck using Alden extractors.

    http://www.amazon.com/Alden-4017P-Dr.../dp/B00004Z2FC

    Heat and/or Kroil can help, WD-40, not so much.

  9. #9
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    To go further-You fail to explain just why you were unable to get them out with a "fluted" extractor. A more complete notion will help just as much as a picture,i.e., were you able to drill into the center of the bolt and then the extractor was slipping,etc..
    I have always preferred the type extractor that has a "twisted effect", sort of like a crude wood screw thread and am using the same set since the 1960's! Have you tried left hand drill bits? That is usually a good first tactic as they may come out that way without further ado-of course you do have the risk of ending up with a broken drill bit inside the first problem thus creating a second problem. If you have an assembly that can be removed a machine shop can burn it out with an EDM machine too. I have never udes a Dremel for such work and have yet to feel that was needed to get one out.
    As stated above-send us a picture.

  10. #10
    The extractor would not bite, it just kept spinning. The head of the bolt/screw is now round. I have not tried any other method, but a left hand drill bit has been mentioned. Is there any kind of prep work that needs to be done? Also Alden screw extractors.

  11. #11

    Alden extractors.

    Do you run these in forward or reversed?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Zaasu View Post
    Do you run these in forward or reversed?
    Reverse. The extractor is a two piece unit. One piece is a left handed (carbid tipped?) bit that drills the pilot hole. When the bit is deap enough the outer piece grabs the remaining wall of the screw.



    Notice the threads on the inner piece that allow the depth of the outer piece to be changed.

  13. #13
    To quote Hall and Oates, "It's a bitch"

    There are as many ways and means to get those wrecked screws out as there are 'boys with opinions'.

    Some will never work, some might. Your screws, you gotta decide.
    IMO, never give up.
    I would read everything posted, pick one that makes sense to you, and try that first. Then try everything else, then make up your own method and try that. Share what works. We are all listening.

    If you take it to the dealer they may charge the $32,895.39 even if they mess up something else. I've never met an awesome dealer, doesn't mean they don't exist, just means I have no proof.

    Sounds like your screws are fairly uncritical so you have time, if you get them out yourself, the experience will yank you from where you are now, to a more competent wrench.


    Sorry about the rant, sincerely trying to help.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  14. #14
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    Can you or have you used heat? Was the extractor hole sized properly for that extractor? A recent use of my extractors was to remove the security bolts that retain the ignition switch assy. under the triple tree casting. These are loctited(from oem installation) 8x1.25 and came out easily with a shallow hole & my regular easy outs, but no corrosion was involved , but lots of torque what with blue locktite.

  15. #15
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    if there is enough edge to the screw/bolt head, Vise-Grips can often get things moving. Sometimes a Torx will work where an Allen no longer does (and it may be that Torx was the right tool to be used at the start)
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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