Gerbing T5 Gloves - Wire Routing & Waterproofing

I finally gave in and got myself a pair of Gerbing T5 heated gloves. I like to keep my motorcycling as simple as possible (ie: less stuff to wire up is a good thing)... but I've been finding my hands the only part not keeping warm on chilly days. So now that I have the gloves, a couple of questions:

Any suggestions on routing the wires?? Is the norm to run them up inside the jacket and down the sleeves? Any tips on where to locate the controller? I put it under the seat, but I have a feeling I'm going to want access to it while I'm riding.

Other question... I was going to buy some Nikwax (Glove Proof) as the outer (leather) shell is not waterproof. Buy my local dealer suggested just spraying on a light coating of silicone spray instead. They said they've seen some bad side-effects of using Glove Proof on T5s (shrinking, for example). What do you think about silicone spray on leather gloves? My concern is that it might make them less grippy. Anyone have experience doing this?

Thanks!

Hey, Billmoto, welcome to the forum!

Assuming you own a Gerbings electric jacket, get the wire out of the pocket on each sleeve and hold the connector between a couple fingers as you pull on the sleeves of your riding jacket. Get your jacket zipped up, don earplugs and helmet, insert the ignition key, etc. with bare hands before you plug in the gloves and pull them on. With a bit of practice you'll get your routine down pat - unless you are like me, pulling on the gloves before putting on my glasses.

You DO want to be able to access both knobs on your dual controller. Since my riding jackets lacked pockets, for years I've worn a waist pouch and found I could slide the dual controller under that belt. Other alternatives I've heard of include velcro tape on the tank or fairing or... and the flat side of the dual controller.

Another point to consider is that you probably want enough wire to allow you to stand on the pegs without inadvertently unplugging - and not so much that it becomes a nuisance or safety hazard. A bit of experimenting with your bike on the center stand is not a bad idea. Mention the model of bike you ride to get better advice from the folks here.

I have NO advice on how to waterproof the gloves - but would love to hear some from people with experience waterproofing T5's. Winter in Seattle HAS to mean you plan to ride in the rain. Depending on your fairing, this may not be a huge issue. No need to repeat my experiment of submerging most of your hands in a bucket of water for a couple minutes. (This did prove that your hands stay dry while the gloves take on enough water to take a couple days to dry.) But that may well not be the case, even in heavy rain.

Stay both safe and warm.

I wear the jacket and T5s -- the gloves plug right into the jacket.. dont know what to do gloves only... I just set my thermostats where I know I like them.. they are pretty consistent, and then keep the controller box in the jacket pocket. I wear a 'stich over all that and run the main wire out the side pocket.

As for waterproofing, I used the nikwax glove stuff... works pretty good and was pretty easy... no real noticeable change in the leather as far as stiffness, shrinking , or feel either. think a bottle of it was like 8 bucks.

I have my controler stuck in the handle of my tankbag. One wire runs under the seat, the other to the waistband on the jacket. That way it is handy to get to, and gives just the right amount of slack to dismount or stand up.

I also added a 6" extension to the plugs on the jacket so that they hang out from under the waistband of my jackets. (after having to unzip both jackets numerous times to hook-up)

I believe from reading your post that you possibly do not have the Gerbings jacket liner. In this case Gerbings sells a harness that you would run down your sleeves and out the waistband:

http://gerbing.com/Products/accessories.html
glove/insole harness $17.95
ÔÇóThe glove/insole harness connects either two gloves or two insoles if they are not going to be used by interconnecting with our heated jacket or pants.
ÔÇóProvided free with the purchase of our 12v gloves or insoles.

I definatly would recommend getting an electric jacket liner if you don't have one.
I was riding in 30 degree weather the other day and remember thinking "this is just like riding on a really sunny day!"

460

Welcome to the forum Billmoto. +1 on what 460 said. I recently picked up a pair of the G3 Gerbing gloves and was wondering about some water repellent treatment. As for the controller, I just hang it on the tank bag. I have the power supply cord exit the bike on the frame just under the left front of the seat, wired direct to the battery. HTH Gary

I have mounted the temperature controllers behind the knee pad on the K and into the dash on the R. I always found the portable controllers to be not as convenient as I have a history of somehow either losing a cord or pulling out and dragging it on the road until the next gas refill. Now I always travel with a backup cord on each bike.

I called Gerbings as to how to maintain the waterproofing on the gloves and was told to use whatever I use for waterproofing on my boots. For the gloves, a waterproofing in a spray can works well. In the spring, I upend a wheelbarrow, place the gloves over the handles and over a one day period, apply two coats of waterproofing. This is repeated just before the fall/rainy season. I have yet to ever have wet hands with these gloves and they look as good as new. Did this with the G3s and now the T5s.

some options

Welcome to the forum!!!

You have a couple of decisions to make.... One is weather you want a controller where you can adjust the temps on or only a on/off switch. If you want a controller, you can have a permanent mount or a portable, you can also have a single output or a dual output.

Reading you stuff as far as simple: the simple way is to go put a inline fuse from the battery with a line coming out at the tank. It is always there and you can plug up and go.

If you get a portable, I would get a dual one, just incase one side stops working you can plug it into the other one. These do wear out. I have had permanent mount, single portable and dual portable, now I have a line coming directly off the battery (simple with a inline fuse), because I have worn them out and they are expensive or more expensive as a direct line.

As far as having only gloves, you need to get the y-spliter and the extra line from Gerbing or from your local radio shack. You probably need to run the line inside your jacket down each sleeve have them meet somewhere around your chest or inside jacket pocket put the splitter there and then run the single line to the power source. Another way you could do it, get a dual portable controller and plug the gloves individually into each output. That way you could control the temps seperate on the right and left glove... This is why I would use only a glove liner and I could use my regular motorcycle gloves over them, plus they are cheaper than the gloves. Do you have heated grips? That will also make a slight difference.

Stay warm!!! Call the folks at Gerbing, they know their business!!

Paul F, could you tell us the brand of spray waterproofing you use on your gloves, approximate cost, and where you bought it?

Thanks all for the excellent info and advice.

BCKRIDER said:

Paul F, could you tell us the brand of spray waterproofing you use on your gloves, approximate cost, and where you bought it?

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I used KIWI WET PRUF, Water Repellant bought at Cdn Tire. I can only guess that it cost around $5 or $6. It is found in the section with shoe and boot polish. I am certain that you'd find this at any place that sells work boots.

KIWI Mink Oil (also at Cdn Tire), applied with a cloth, is what I use on my leather Russell seat. Sometimes I use this on the boots as well. However, the spray WET PRUF is much easier to apply to the the seams in the gloves.

The folks at Russell had no preference as to whether the seat were treated with the Mink Oil or the silicone spray can.

Hope this helps.

Paul



Paul

I use Penguin Himalaya Wax. It's marketed as a boot protector - which it is also really good at. It's genuine Bees Wax with light silicone oils.

It buffs up to a nice even dull finish and actually increase grip with the gloves.

I got caught in some wet with my T5's and they stayed dry, inside and out, my hands stayed warm and toasty.

Cheap at $4.99 at Big 5 Sporting Goods.

I have the full Gerbing kit. I put an outlet up on the left , just behind the left winglet on my GSA. If you look, you'll see BMW even put a little indentation for it right there. Then I glued the loop part of "hook & loop" on the backside of the dual controller. Next I glued the "hook" part to the left side , just above the left tank.

I put the clothing on, plug it all together, plug in the dual controller. Once on the bike, I plug the dual controller into my power cable mentioned above.

I can ride down the rode and very easily adjust the controller while riding. And you will want to do that because it can get quite toasty after a while.

You'll discover the wiring is a PITA and what ever solution that works for you is a good solution.
My connections at the wrist are the most problematic.
After you connect the glove(s) and pull them on you will notice the wire bends over the wrist cuff.
Mine in time broke and I had to rewire the jacket connectors.

As for water proofing. For me w/ T5's nothing has worked.
I live with the fact I have two black sponges. Albeit, warm sponges.

I was feeding from the accessory socket but something is wrong w/ that as the plug gets hot.
I'm going to wire direct w/ an inline fuse.

GrafikFeat said:

As for water proofing. For me w/ T5's nothing has worked.
I live with the fact I have two black sponges. Albeit, warm sponges.

Click to expand...

the only glove waterproofing that has ever worked for me is aerostich's triple digit rain covers.

man, i'd love to have a pair of these golves....

ian

Thanks for all the suggestions... I've been meaning to do something with my T5s, other than hoping they don't soak through before I get to work or arrive back home.

Speaking of waterproofing, anyone else have trouble with the Gerbing's connectors and wiring shorting out or getting corroded/rusting? I swear, it seems like at least once a year or so I find that I need to cut-off and replace at least one connector... typically on the battery lead coming off the motorcycle.

Last year it was a short in the lead at the base of the female connector and this year it was rust/corrosion on the inside of the female connector. I never found a good way to keep moisture out of the connectors, given that I ride year-round regardless of the weather -- short of ice or the rare heavy snow -- so I'm sure that's the root cause.

After riding home last night fiddling with the connector in an attempt to get a good connection I cut off the lead on my Heatroller and replaced it with by splicing in a two-prong connector from a Battery Tender lead wire and replaced the Gerbing battery lead with a two-prong Battery Tender - battery lead.



It seemed to work pretty good this morning during the 25*F ride to work and the molded rubber cap does a much better job of protecting the connector ends than the plug cover provided by Gerbings for the Heattrollers. Fingerscrossed, this will last for at least two -seasons.

For waterproofing, if you want a silicone product, I recommend mink oil...However, I use Hubers Shoe Oil on ALL my leather these days...waterproofs and treats it. Might be hard to get, try a saddlery or tack shop...I get mine at a shoe repair store in Goleta, or the western shop in Lone Pine when I go thru...