High Performance Alternators for R100RT

Greetings!

I'm contemplating the installation of a High Performance Alternator that also contains the diode and volt reg as well...I'll be using a heated jacket, driving lights, heated grips, and high visibility tail lights, so it makes sense.

Got any suggestions as to who might make the best one to retro fit to my
'95 100RT?

Two choices

Euro Motoelectrics http://tinyurl.com/enduralast
Motorrad Eletrik http://tinyurl.com/omega-charging

Both good reviews.

Independent third party review here:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/AftrMrktAlt.htm

Motorad Electrik sells both a replacement LED taillight/brake light and an auxiliary led brake light. They draw very little current and are brighter than the OEM unit.

In addition to providing higher output electrical power, you can also go the conservation route.

When the battery voltage is above 12.6 - 12.8 volts, the battery is charging. Below that, is when you should be concerned because the battery will discharge until it's dead. Anybody running heated gear should have a voltmeter on the bike to guard against running the battery down.

There are a few ways to get more power for heated gear out of bikes with a limited electrical system.

- Switch to HID lighting. The HID bulb is 35 watts and a digital slim ballast is about 8 watts. This saves about 12 watts per headlamp.

- switch to LED tail lights. I forget what the 1157 bulbs (and equivalent) draw, 15-20 watts maybe. superbrightleds.com

- if you have two lowbeam headlights, pull a headlight connector. This saves 55 watts.

- upgrade your stator to a higher output version or get it rewound for higher output. In general, this is a bad idea and increases the chances of burning it out. Lots of horror stories here. You will also need to upgrade your voltage regulator. (A stator is just wire with no active components.)

- upgrade your voltage regulator to a MOSFET type. See the Eastern Beaver website.

When I had my old CB750. There was zero extra power for heated gear. I used to carry a chunky 12 volt gell cell on the bike to power heated gloves. It was good for a couple of hours and got recharged on my test bench at night.l

With LED lights they draw less power but isn't it true that they are not as bright? And we all know visibility it paramount!

brittrunyon said:

With LED lights they draw less power but isn't it true that they are not as bright? And we all know visibility it paramount!

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The LED brake light that Motorrad Eletrik sells for airheads is a cluster of lights and it is much brighter than stock brake lights.

Bob_M said:

The LED brake light that Motorrad Eletrik sells for airheads is a cluster of lights and it is much brighter than stock brake lights.

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I agree. I have one of their Beacon Two lights and it is noticeably brighter than the standard bulb. I also added a "Stopper" auxiliary LED brake light from the same source. I prefer two have two bulbs or light units for brakes. Ye Olde Airhead doesn't have a bulb warning light and I hate learning that my brake light is out when a minivan runs me over.

For the extreme

And when installed...almost looks like an oilhead

beemerguru said:

And when installed

Click to expand...

Output in watts?

Around 800 depending on what parts you put into the remote rectifier.

The original prototype now resides in Chicago on a green G/S..has over 175K miles on the unit to date with no issues...just belt replacement.

The Keep'emflying column in the Nov 2010 ON by Matt Parkhouse has a story on installing the Enduralast system. I have used it for 2 years and recommend it. It provides 100 watts or more from idle than the stock system which has no net output at idle when the red light comes on.

I've been running the Enduralast with an Odyssey AGM batter for three years, ~ 20K miles. No trouble at all, the voltage (measured by the occasional ride with a DVM strapped to the tank, not the flaky OEM dash meter) seems rock steady at about 14.3 Vdc. Even turning the grips or my heated jacket on/off doesn't seem to budge the output much. There had been talk online that the Enduralast VRR was wasteful in that it always produced maximum output and bled the excess as heat, I have since read that is not the case, it uses thyristors?? to switch on/off and only makes the power required at any instant of time. And if you are thinking of more upgrades down the road.....Enduralast already has a crank mounted timing device to replace the bean can. Its available for point type ignitions (pre '81), I understand it will soon be out for Hall sensor bean cans as well. Having the Enduralast alternator already installed will position you well for the ignition upgrade, if you see yourself going that way.

I can vouch for the Enduralast as well. Been running it for 5 years with great results (R60/6). I live in Chicago and most of my riding is in the city. With no accessories, my battery was constantly in need of a boost with a battery tender to start the bike. Now I don't even hook it up over the winter. Bike starts every time with the slightest touch of the button, even in Spring after sitting all Winter. You also don't have to worry about disconnecting the battery when removing the front cover. Highly recommend!

I designed the one sold by Motorrad Elektrik over 15 years ago and put it through a lot of testing and I had no problems.

What's all the power for?

beemerguru said:

And when installed...almost looks like an oilhead

Click to expand...

I understand need some more power, heated clothes, farkles and what-not, but what is this monster for? Have '60s mods moved all their lights onto Beemers?

That's for a movie or are you not a "Who" fan and saw "Quadrophenia?"


As far as the need, during cold or wet weather riding, at around 270 watts or so for most late model airheads, you end up watching the volt meter almost as much as the speedo.

If you try to ride with heated grips, a heated jacket and a high beam - think end of long day in the fall or early spring - you can watch the voltmeter move down to under 10 volts...alternator running at a deficit and the battery isn't getting enough electrons. If you don't unplug or turn off something before your next stop, you'll end up getting the dreaded "click, click, click" of a flat battery..and either jump or push it to go.

Add a passenger who wants/needs to stay warm and the problem gets worse.

Sure you can go with heavy winter gloves, fully insulated riding suit, etc. to stay warm. Then you can add additional lights and not worry as much.

But some riders like to ride year round (just finished a 5400 mile trip 2 weeks ago - averaged 45 degrees every morning and the last day was sleet and overcast) and ride later at night (need to see all the critters and road conditions) and 2 up (if she's not comfortable on a ride, you're not comfortable after you get home).

Then there's the ability to fix it in the field. Are parts readily available for some long distance touring riders - I'm talking Africa, down the Pan American, across Canada, up and down Baja, Alaska - as well as across Idaho or Montana. You don't find parts at the local NAPA for most systems so you want dependable with some output to support your safety and comfort.

If all your riding is local, daylight, and solo, no real need for any of this stuff. As I stated, that 800 watt kit from Australia is designed for 1/10th of 1 percent of the riders out there. I've installed both the Enduralast and Omega systems on customer's bikes because that's all they needed.

Like a true consultant, my answer to this question is "It all depends."

Check out the current issue of MOA News - Matt Parkhouse writes about the two most likely options.

It's on page 34 of the November issue...and Matt got his information wrong about the Australian kit..Already sent Matt and Vince a correction.

it's a Bosche alternator..parts available anywhere in the world..and you drill and tap one hole..and you section the timing cover and front cover. More involved installation than the other 2 for greater output, reliability and worldwide parts availability.

This could almost get to be as interesting as an oil comparison..everyone has an opinion...and each could possibly be correct depending on the circumstances.