1969 r60/2

Just made a delivery to a woman today. She had a 1969 BMW R60/2 in her garage. It hadn't been ridden in the year since her husband died She is having a garage sale and everything was for sale, including the bike. I asked her if it ran, and if so, if I could ride it. She said it did, and I was welcomed to. Sooooo. I ...put some gas in it, kicked it over 5 times, and it roared to life. AWESOME.

Soooo, she's selling the bike, but doesn't want to get ripped off, and I'm not in the market for the bike, as I don't have a permanent home, and travel for work.

So here are some photos guys. What do you all think? What is this bike worth? The electric lines going into the headlight bucket has been cut, the battery isn't present, but the bike started off the magneto (or whatever is in there). The boot from the motor to the drive shaft is cracked and duck taped. The brakes were slooooow to act. I shifted through 3rd, and about 50 mph, and it did fine. I'm not familiar with the transmission. But it seemed ok. It has nearly 50,000 miles. There is very minimal rust at all, and the gas tank interior seemed fine. The exhaust pipe has some holes in it, but not from rust. The turn signals are in a box, as are the gas tank side panels (rubber pieces). Any other questions?

I had to hang from the ceiling in my spidey suit sideways to view some of the pics but that is in my estimation restorable.
What is she asking?
Paging DarrylRi!
Paging WoodnSteel!

Matching numbers?

The brakes likely need to be adjusted, but you have to realize that you're dealing with 60s technology. I find my R69S front brakes to be quite effective when I really get on them. They'll fade for sure, but I don't plan on canyon carving.

At 45K miles, you'll really need to consider a complete engine overhaul. If you don't, you could destroy the crankshaft, resulting in an even bigger bill.

Depending on your skills, you could do all the work yourself or you could do the prep for a more experienced restorer to work on the bottom and top end. Cylceworks has tools, videos, etc., to do all of this work. For me, the problem might not have been just doing the work, it was the experience to know when something needed to be replaced or repaired, etc. I did all the prep and handed the block off to my mechanic.

The best resource out there is Craig Vechorik at Benchmark Works. Vech is a contributor to the MOA News and is the Vintage Consultant per the MOA magazine. He has a great parts and mechanical shop in Sturgis, MS. His shop is on Earles Fork Road!!

My guess would be that you're going to spend around $5K just to acquire the bike. As far as the mechanical restoration, a bottom and top end is likely going to be around $2K, if you do most of the prep yourself. More if you just send the bike off somewhere.

After that, other things are going to start adding up quickly. Tires, battery (not needed to run the bike as you found out), wiring upgrades (as required), handlebars, possibly new brake shoes, new mufflers. Of course all the basic parts like the driveshaft boot (hopefully the cracked boot hasn't resulted in damage to the shaft), oils, plugs, carb overhaul parts, etc.

You could easily double that $5K to get a mechanically sound, nice looking running bike. Note that the R60/2 will be done on power relative to the R69S. But with coaxing it will easily reach highway speeds but you'll likely want to run it on backroads more.

They're a gas to ride and own.

Cool find. It would need a slinger service for sure. Lots of potential to spend crazy money on a bike like that. I'd make it mechanically sound and campaign it as is. If I were interested in it, I'd offer $2500 and maybe go up to $3K. I'd expect to wind up with a $5000 dollar bike with around $5000 invested in it.

I just sent my R-50 engine in....

Looks like slinger service, bearing service, head and piston service on a running engine the 'doesn't look too bad".
My basic bill is $3200. And I pulled the engine removed all electrics and the clutch plus boxed and shipped delivered to the shop..
When I get it back.. it will be basically new condition and I will be about 4k lighter.
This is engine work only..by a top notch experienced restorer.

I would offer $1800 and not go over $2500... looks like the unit needs a lot of tlc and body work. The bikes take a lot of expensive parts to get there.. and that is why the sell for a lot when nicely done.

Good luck.

jim dahl, Ketchikan, Alaska, I plan just to ride mine.

gertiektn said:

I would offer $1800 and not go over $2500... looks like the unit needs a lot of tlc and body work. The bikes take a lot of expensive parts to get there.. and that is why the sell for a lot when nicely done.

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I think that would be a steel of a price for a runner with all the parts. I'd guess closer to 4-5 K for the bike as is. Yeah, it needs work and new parts. That's part of the game. I believe an R69S in worse (non-running) condition recently went for $6K.

Geez and we'll probably never know the actual selling price.
Do I see cylinder head damage and an open end on one of the bars (both!)?
Like maybe an *ouch* type event at some point?
Just sayin', way too far for me to go and outside my expertise.

The $5k, $5k, $5k stuff is getting to be an urban legend. In running condition like this, it's probably worth $3,500 tops as there are a lot of these out there. $4,000 for an engine overhaul can be reduced to less than $500 in parts for someone mechanically inclined, able to read directions and purchasing the "Many in One" tool from Cycle Works. I bought and restored an R50/2 and, including all the expensive cosmetic parts and professional painting, have about $8,300 in it. As with most restorers, however, that doesn't count my labor and the scooter probably has a market value of about $7,000. This proves the general rule that an individual restoration can't be sold at a profit. At least I have all the tools needed for my new project, a 1952 R51/3.

lbrackr756 said:

$4,000 for an engine overhaul can be reduced to less than $500 in parts for someone mechanically inclined, able to read directions and purchasing the "Many in One" tool from Cycle Works.

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$500 if nothing is found when you tear into the engine save some dirty slingers.

It won't cover the cost of two pistons and a rebore, something that is commonly needed on run down bikes. Got some pitted lifters? $72 each. Need new valves? About $90/side ($120 for a R69S) not including labor to match the valves to the seats. Assuming the seats are good and don't need replacing. And that your heads don't have cracks that need welding. And that the spark plug inserts aren't falling out. Otherwise figure about $300 for head repairs. Yeah, it is a little bit cheaper if you happen to have cylinder boring and valve regrinding equipment in your garage.

And what about the crank? Are the journals the proper size or do they need to be built up so the bearings don't spin. Rods OK? New rods are something like $300.

If $4K is at the upper end to refresh the engine $500 is certainly near the bottom. I suspect most folks will be someplace in between. My last teardown (earlier this year) on my R69S cost closer to $2000 in parts and external labor. That cost included a new camshaft, something that I don't think would commonly need changing.

Bike sold for $2500

I facilitated the sale of the bike to a man for $2500. He's quite pleased to say the least. Yes there was cylinder head damage, and yes, both bar ends are open, not EVERY piece was there, and the steel rims were slightly pitted. We'll see how it goes.

--Alex

Coming late to the pa-rty, but yes, I've seen similar R60 bikes like this going for $2500 - $3500, depending on metal/paint condition, engine, and period accessories.

bigalsmith101 said:

I facilitated the sale of the bike to a man for $2500. He's quite pleased to say the least. Yes there was cylinder head damage, and yes, both bar ends are open, not EVERY piece was there, and the steel rims were slightly pitted. We'll see how it goes.

--Alex

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I should correct myself. I think the bar ends are open because the bar end signals are missing. Not a bad price.