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stripped windscreen screws '05 R1200RT

H

Harrington

Guest
What are my options? I did a quick search and it came back goose eggs. I change my screen every few months depending on the weather. I guess I overtightened and stripped one of the screw holes. Do I need to buy a complete windscreen mounting bracket?
 
If my bike I think it some good epoxy in the hole and cure well thendrill for shield screw.

Ifyou use a wood round toothpick to push epoxy in and leave in it will easily drill.

Or if in hurry just put some steelwool threads in hole to help grab. But there wioo be mors spread inside pressure and may stretch hole more

I suppose others will give smarter ideas.
 
Dear Harrington..

It would be VERY USEFUL if we had some tiny clue, just an inkling, of what bike you've stripped out the windshield screws on. Different bikes lend themselves to different solutions.
 
Heli-Coil

I would suggest repairing them with a Heli-coil (or similar product) to get the thread back to it original size. In aluminum, the repair is stronger than the original thread. You should be able to get these at auto parts stores.

http://www.helicoil.in/
 
I have the exact same problem. 07 rt with cee baileys shield. I change back to oem shield in summer for air flow. I've considered jb weld and then re tapping. Do you think this would be strong enough?
 
JB Weld it. Wait 24 hours and then drill and tap. Make sure you have the proper tap and go SLOW! The last thing you need is a tap broken off inside the JB Weld. DAMHIK
 
Dear Harrington..

It would be VERY USEFUL if we had some tiny clue, just an inkling, of what bike you've stripped out the windshield screws on. Different bikes lend themselves to different solutions.

My 05 RT is listed in my profile. I posted this under hexheads/camheads. By default you can assume it's not a /5 but thanks for asking anyway. Yes, I should have listed the year, model and VIN with a full detailed factory parts list including a description of the failure, torque value at failure with a detailed weather report including all astrological events.

For ****s and giggles lets say it's an 05 RT windshield retaining screw that blew it's tap......

Thanks for playing.
 
I have the exact same problem. 07 rt with cee baileys shield. I change back to oem shield in summer for air flow. I've considered jb weld and then re tapping. Do you think this would be strong enough?

I found info on aftermarket struts. I'd rather just change the pieces out to something more stout. Currently the shield is retained by the other screws so I can still ride. I'm looking to build it better and stronger. I'll go the JB route if I can't find the struts.
 
My 05 RT is listed in my profile.
You miss the point. If you want people who might have something useful to add post to your question - then it behooves you to make it easy for them to know what the actual subject is. That's where your bike model (and year in many cases) is a valuable thing to know. Expecting someone to open the thread, read your posting, then go look in your profile to find information is not realistic. It simply won't happen in the great majority of cases.

I've added the bike info to the thread title. Perhaps you'll get some more suggestions.. FWIW - there are replacement arms made by a 3rd party for the RT - this might be worth considering, they are stronger then the BMW arms.
I posted this under hexheads/camheads. By default you can assume it's not a /5 but thanks for asking anyway. Yes, I should have listed the year, model and VIN with a full detailed factory parts list including a description of the failure, torque value at failure with a detailed weather report including all astrological events.

For ****s and giggles lets say it's an 05 RT windshield retaining screw that blew it's tap......

Thanks for playing.

EDIT: Commentary I made removed - it appeared to one member as too insulting, and he may have been right. Please remember - moderators are also human..
 
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You miss the point. If you want people who might have something useful to add post to your question - then it behooves you to make it easy for them to know what the actual subject is. That's where your bike model (and year in many cases) is a valuable thing to know. Expecting someone to open the thread, read your posting, then go look in your profile to find information is not realistic. It simply won't happen in the great majority of cases.

I've added the bike info to the thread title. Perhaps you'll get some more suggestions.. FWIW - there are replacement arms made by a 3rd party for the RT - this might be worth considering, they are stronger then the BMW arms.


EDIT: Commentary I made removed - it appeared to one member as too insulting, and he may have been right. Please remember - moderators are also human..

FTR I probably could have just done the research myself. I've been uber busy at work and thought a few retired shadetree mechanics would volunteer some obvious fix. I appreciate the constructive responses to date. I was just fishing for something I might have missed. These 3rd party struts might be the ticket but this hush/hush isn't a big sales pitch. I'm looking for a quality product from a reputable company.
Thanks for playing.:wave
 
Quick and dirty fix - longer screw, nut on it where it comes out of the bracket on the other side (assuming the bracket is through drilled.) Not tidy, but it will work.
 
Back to Helicoil

Over torquing probably isn't the problem. Frequent removal and insertion may have worn down the female threads in the aluminum, not uncommon.

This is another reason to do the repair (even install them right away) with Helicoils. The Helicoil is made out of stainless steel and is installed in a few minutes. No waiting for JB Weld to dry and hoping the the new hole you drilled is in the same spot. The repair is much stronger than the bare aluminum and repeated tightening of the bolt is not an issue.

I work in a contract machine shop and we machine many aluminum components where extra strength (or long life due to repeated assembly) is required in the threads. In those cases, Helicoil (or equivalent) installation is called for as part of the original design.
 
This is another reason to do the repair (even install them right away) with Helicoils. The Helicoil is made out of stainless steel and is installed in a few minutes. No waiting for JB Weld to dry and hoping the the new hole you drilled is in the same spot. The repair is much stronger than the bare aluminum and repeated tightening of the bolt is not an issue.

I work in a contract machine shop and we machine many aluminum components where extra strength (or long life due to repeated assembly) is required in the threads. In those cases, Helicoil (or equivalent) installation is called for as part of the original design.

The more I think about it the more the Helicoil setup sounds like the way I want to go. Thanks for the reply.
 
I went with the Heli-coil. It was a snap. I bought the tap/coils and tool at Napa auto parts online. Nobody in town had the M5 heli-coils. I don't think the whole process took 10 minutes including removing and installing the windscreen.
 
Quick and dirty fix - longer screw, nut on it where it comes out of the bracket on the other side (assuming the bracket is through drilled.) Not tidy, but it will work.


I just joined the R1200RT strip club...

My quick and dirty temp fix is a longer screw, period.
There was plenty of good (female) thread that the OEM m5 x .80 x 16 was not using.
Bracket was drilled through and threaded for the entire lenght I think.,
anyway
An m5 x .80 x 20 is holding just fine. Fugly pan head though
Believe I'll take the bracket up for helicoils this winter

dmilan
 
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