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Removing a Battery from the Battery Box R75/6
- Thread starter b25bsaboy
- Start date
85k100lt
Cave Creek AZ
Replace with PC680 Odessey
Replace with PC680 Odessey:
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/album.php?albumid=108&pictureid=807
No more problems dropping the rear subframe. 1/2 the size of stock reccommended battery. Terminals are correct. Comes out easily. Have to modify battery hold down system.
Replace with PC680 Odessey:
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/album.php?albumid=108&pictureid=807
No more problems dropping the rear subframe. 1/2 the size of stock reccommended battery. Terminals are correct. Comes out easily. Have to modify battery hold down system.
Last edited:
crazydrummerdude
advrider.com
Remove the 2 10mm nuts from the sides of the battery tray (behind the sidecovers).
Lift seat.
Disconnect the battery ("negative off, positive on" is what I always say to myself).
Tilt battery tray back.
Wiggle battery out (between the subframe bolts and fender).
Lift seat.
Disconnect the battery ("negative off, positive on" is what I always say to myself).
Tilt battery tray back.
Wiggle battery out (between the subframe bolts and fender).
B
Bill Burke
Guest
Or back off both bolts attaching the upper subframe to the frame (the bolt/nut combo that's clearly in the way of lifting the battery out). Then remove the two 10 mm nuts that allow you to tilt the tray back. Now try it.
photorider
New member
Huh. Never thought of those. Nice!
I've been removing the air filter housing, which is kind of a PIA b/c the intake tubes need to come off and then there's that darn little nut holding the right one on.
I've been removing the air filter housing, which is kind of a PIA b/c the intake tubes need to come off and then there's that darn little nut holding the right one on.
to add to the above...
There are two bolts that hold the sub frame to the mainframe just behind the tank and below the front of the seat. (One of them holds the lift handle on). Remove the nuts on the inside of the frame and back the bolts out till they are flush with the inside of the sub frame tube. You don’t need to remove them completely and probably should not do so. That should provide enough clearance to tilt the battery and tray back touching the rear fender then lift the battery up and out through the opening where the tool tray was. Be especially careful not to get the positive and negative terminals in contact with the frame at least at the same time. It is a very tight fit.
The other means to remove the battery is to pull carbs, air tubes, and air cleaner housing (both sides) with filter. The battery will slide right out over the top of the transmission through the opening created by the removal of the air cleaner housing. The carbs can hang on their cables or sit on the cylinders connected to the cables. The half of the air filter housing that has the choke lever attached can be swung out of the way and held back with wire/string/whatever…this however means you will have to balance the carbs after installing a new battery and putting it all back together. But then a carb balance is easy and required periodically anyway....
There are two bolts that hold the sub frame to the mainframe just behind the tank and below the front of the seat. (One of them holds the lift handle on). Remove the nuts on the inside of the frame and back the bolts out till they are flush with the inside of the sub frame tube. You don’t need to remove them completely and probably should not do so. That should provide enough clearance to tilt the battery and tray back touching the rear fender then lift the battery up and out through the opening where the tool tray was. Be especially careful not to get the positive and negative terminals in contact with the frame at least at the same time. It is a very tight fit.
The other means to remove the battery is to pull carbs, air tubes, and air cleaner housing (both sides) with filter. The battery will slide right out over the top of the transmission through the opening created by the removal of the air cleaner housing. The carbs can hang on their cables or sit on the cylinders connected to the cables. The half of the air filter housing that has the choke lever attached can be swung out of the way and held back with wire/string/whatever…this however means you will have to balance the carbs after installing a new battery and putting it all back together. But then a carb balance is easy and required periodically anyway....
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THOMASPIN
Airhead
Odyssey PC680 straps
Not only will the Odyssey never leak acid on your battery tray, it's so much smaller that I manage to fit a <a href=http://www.nelsonrigg.com/store/product.aspx?pid=487 target=_blank>Nelson-Rigg UV2000 XL half cover</a>, in its provided bag, in the space newly vacated behind the Odyssey by the old lead acid battery. This is in my 1989 R100RT. The tool box ordinarily sits on top and does not interfere with the closing of the seat with the Nelson-Rigg in place as shown.
The rubber straps, two needed, are part number 61211243562 from your BMW dealer.
Not only will the Odyssey never leak acid on your battery tray, it's so much smaller that I manage to fit a <a href=http://www.nelsonrigg.com/store/product.aspx?pid=487 target=_blank>Nelson-Rigg UV2000 XL half cover</a>, in its provided bag, in the space newly vacated behind the Odyssey by the old lead acid battery. This is in my 1989 R100RT. The tool box ordinarily sits on top and does not interfere with the closing of the seat with the Nelson-Rigg in place as shown.
The rubber straps, two needed, are part number 61211243562 from your BMW dealer.
Attachments
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b25bsaboy
New member
Thank you for everyone responding to the question as to how to remove the battery. After reading and giving some thought, I have elected to go and source a Odessey battery and straps. Thank's to all of yopu who chimed in with suggestions!
Rick
