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Need help - R60/5 carb rebuild

subagon

subagon

Hopelessly lost
I just bought a 1971 R60/5 with Bing slide carbs (Type 53). It had been sitting awhile and the carbs are gunked up.

I've torn down the carbs as far as I can for their overnight stay in a can of carb cleaner, but can't remove the tickler (which has a plastic cap, well at least it looks like plastic).

All my manuals say to remove a cotter pin, but I don't have one or the hole to put it in. The end of my tickler has been crimped in order to enlarge the end keeping it in place. The crimp looks like the work of the factory, not some ham fisted mechanic.

So how do I remove it?

PS

I found this nice diagram at Bing's website

http://www.bingcarburetor.com/pdf/T53x.pdf

The tickler is #43 and #45 is the cotter pin that mine isn't designed to have/use.

Thanks,

EDIT:

Added 3 pictures of the end of the tickler;

In the last picture you can see the hole the tickler goes through. The crimped end keeps the tickler from passing through this hole and thus my problem.

DSC_9319_crop.jpg

DSC_9320_crop.jpg

DSC_9321_crop.jpg
 
Last edited:
Do you need to remove it?

All the tickler does is push down the floats to cause flooding to enrichen the mixture as there is no "real" Choke on these type carbs..

Your carbs look pretty crusty.. clean carefully and make sure all the jet are open and clean as well smooth slides..

good luck.
 
The crimp pictured is normal. What is not show would be the shaped washer that works with that shaft. Ever change the drum brake shoes on a 70's Chevy?, it's the exact same fitment. There is a washer the has a punch out in the middle that has the exact same profile as the crimped shaft if you look at it straight on. Push the washer over the shaped end and turn a quarter turn. Now the odd shapes are against each other and the washer can not escape . The hole where the tickler rod passes through the carb body is eccentric shaped as well. There is only one way to get it out and that is to remove the retaining washer and slowly spin the tickler until you find the release point.

I had retro-fitted a type 53 to my R27 and lost a tickler going down the road. It bounced its way around to the release point and jumped right out. Didn't have any retainer on that one. on the next tickler, I wrapped the shaft on the upside of the crimp with several wraps of .020 safety wire to hold it in.
 
Thanks for the reply woodnsteel.

I'd already removed the shaped washer you describe. I've also rotated the tickler and don't see how it's going to get through that hole. maybe it's gunked up to the point where I can't see the eccentric hole shape :dunno




woodnsteel said:
The crimp pictured is normal. What is not show would be the shaped washer that works with that shaft. Ever change the drum brake shoes on a 70's Chevy?, it's the exact same fitment. There is a washer the has a punch out in the middle that has the exact same profile as the crimped shaft if you look at it straight on. Push the washer over the shaped end and turn a quarter turn. Now the odd shapes are against each other and the washer can not escape . The hole where the tickler rod passes through the carb body is eccentric shaped as well. There is only one way to get it out and that is to remove the retaining washer and slowly spin the tickler until you find the release point.

I had retro-fitted a type 53 to my R27 and lost a tickler going down the road. It bounced its way around to the release point and jumped right out. Didn't have any retainer on that one. on the next tickler, I wrapped the shaft on the upside of the crimp with several wraps of .020 safety wire to hold it in.
Click to expand...
 
I need to soak the carb body in carb cleaner and if I leave the tickler attached, the plastic cap on the tickler would get ruined.

gertiektn said:
All the tickler does is push down the floats to cause flooding to enrichen the mixture as there is no "real" Choke on these type carbs..

Your carbs look pretty crusty.. clean carefully and make sure all the jet are open and clean as well smooth slides..

good luck.
Click to expand...
 
I'm tellin' ya man, if you carefully spin that tickler in it's hole, you'll find the release point. You'll be working against the light upward spring tension that holds the tickler up off the float.

That's the way this works, plain and simple. Unless something really wierd has occured like the passage being somehow blocked. You'll never "see" the passage. It's a "feel" thing. Try blowing out the cavity (passage) with Gumout, several times if necesary. Be patient.

Otherwise, your only option is to knock off the crimp with a Dremel or die grinder and get a new or used ticker rod.
 
Same problem

I am rebuilding a '72 R60/5 that hasn't been on the road for 25 years and have the same carbs as the OP here. They need dipping in carb cleaner and I don't want to ruin the plastic knob on the tickler.
The washer on the tickler shaft has no slots or whatever so that it can be removed from the shaft(over the crimped bits).
The washer will slide up the shaft to the crimp and the hole through which the shaft goes doesn't appear to have any grooves through which the crimped ears will fit, thereby allowing the shaft to be pulled out the top.:banghead
I didn't see that Subagon got a definitive answer to his question.
Any help out there? If I get the right answer, I'll post pix. How's that for incentive. OK, not much, but it's all I have.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Those pesky ticklers

I did the rebuild last year. Woodnsteel is right. If you push the washer up the primer shaft (it compresses the spring a little) you might be able to see that the hole up the center of the washer is very slightly elongated and if turned will slip over the crimp. Then the whole works can be pulled out the top except for the washer which is already off. The hole in the carb body is also slightly elongated to let the crimp fit through.

Otherwise, I would also dremel the crimp and and then once its out drill the plunger end to accept a small cotter or clevis pin to hold the washer in place when you reinstall it.
 
felaw said:
Otherwise, I would also dremel the crimp and and then once its out drill the plunger end to accept a small cotter or clevis pin to hold the washer in place when you reinstall it.
Click to expand...

Well, I had to go with otherwise.
Washer is round. I Dremeled the tabs and drilled the shafts for a cotter pin. Looks like it will work.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
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