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First Tire Change?

stanley83

New member
New tires, tubes and rim strips arrived yesterday for my R75/6. I have Dynabeads that I plan to use in lieu of wheel weights.

I've never changed a motorcycle tire before, but have changed countless bicycle tires. I have changed vintage Vespa tires, too, but they have a two-part rim so tire irons are unnecessary. I have only the tire tools from the stock tool kit.

How much time should I set aside for this task?

Are there any other tricks or accessories that would be helpful?

Is talcum powder between tire and tube recommended?

TIA,
Justin
 
This might be a good tutorial:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/tire/index.htm

IMO, it's going to be tough with just the tool kit equipment. The tubeless tires these days aren't as flexible with the steel bead as compared to yesteryear older tires meant for tubes. Worth a try. At least you'll find the point at which you whip out the plastic and pay to have it done. It'll give you some idea of what to do if a flat happens on the road.
 
Thanks for the link...

the tire I have in back is the same size as the one on the link, explaining why my Speedo is off.
 
Have fun!!

The sun is your friend- let the tire sit in the sun to warm it up make it more flexible. :dance


I know it is a challenge but do consider having a "Man with a Machine" do this you will save lots of swearing and busted knuclkles. :dunno
 
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It is a good idea that you have the ability and confidence to change/fix a flat. Once you are comfortable that this is in your skill set, you may want to hire out this task to the previously mentioned "Man with machine".

The pictorial tutorial is pretty good. I have had difficulty breaking the bead in the field. One neat trick is using the bikes side stand as a bead breaker. You may need your riding buddy with a second motorcycle to perform this trick.
 
The owners manual (if you have one) that came with the bike will walk you throught the necessary steps to remove the wheel. The tools in the kit are adequate for changing the tires. From my experience, the tubes come with talc on them. I never bothered changing the rim tape that covers the spoke ends, but if it's rotted, then do so. I have a 75 R60/6. The first time will be the hardest. After that, time will be cut in half. Soapy water helps. After you do it a few times, you may just take the wheel in and pay the 35 bucks or so to have the dealer do it. They will check the bearings at the same time, and spin and balance.
 
I just changed out the rear tire on my GSA using the short tire levers in the Motion Pro kit. No problems at all. Well, let's not talk about breaking the bead. That was not fun. Otherwise, first time - 1 hour to change tire and balance. After you get the hang of it, maybe as quick as half-hour.
 
Three things to consider in my opinion -

Lube - do a search on this forum for multiple discussions about lube. Couple of products come to the top. Seems whichever you choose, it isn't expensive and works much better than soap and water.

Rim Protectors - you can also get these neat little pieces of plastic that clip on the rim and keep the iron from gouging it. If you search on the lube as I mention above, you also read about making rim protectors from empty plastic bottles. The ones I bought were not expensive and I think they probably work better than strips.

Once the tire is off, take the time to clean up the inside of the rim and the edges where bead seats. Its amazing how much crud accumulates and the "man with the machine" doesn't clean as part of the mount and balance.

+1 on all the other tips above and ones to follow.

Kudos for giving it a shot. In my case, I couldn't believe how difficult it was to get the first tire off, but sure enough, it was easier on the second. I'm confident now that the tire kit I carry in the tank bag would allow me to fix a flat on the road. That in itself is worth the effort (I think).

Barron
 
my least fav job. I have done many in my "youth". and it is a good practice for side of the road repairs
I wont do it again unless my son wants to go half on a no-mar machine

however I have moved up to cast tubless rims and a plug kit
which, knock on wood , have not needed yet
 
Lube - do a search on this forum for multiple discussions about lube. Couple of products come to the top. Seems whichever you choose, it isn't expensive and works much better than soap and water.



Barron

+!. The lube is the key. Also make sure the tire seats correctly on the rim. It will 'pop' when it seats. Again, lube helps. There is probably a line molded into the tire that will be exposed adjacent to the rim when the tire is properly seated.
 
Thanks for the posts so far...

I have the owners manual and the BMW, Clymer and Haynes manuals.

I've taken the front wheel off, I rebuilt the forks last fall. I've not taken the rear off yet.

I picked up some longer irons today, but the shop had just moved its accessories and the lube had yet to turn up.

From the sound of it, breaking the bead is the biggest PITA, but I'll see when I take on the job. At least the tire wont be rusted to the rim as is often the case with old Vespas.

For me, the point of the exercise is learning how to do if I need to in the future and learning if it's a job I'm willing to do myself or am happy to pay someone else.
 
A big C-clamp makes a good bead breaker. I use dishsoap for tire lube,little messy but it works. If the old tubes are decent,I'll save them for emergencies. If I tear one,I'll use it for practice with my patch kit.
 
Don't let anyone discourage you. I recently did the same job for the first time because I also wanted to know I could do it. First one, PITA no doubt. I've done several since without even breaking a sweat. All with the BMW tool kit irons (I have three of them and it helps).

You've gotten some good advice here. I would add that Windex makes a perfectly acceptable substitute for lube. When leveraging the irons, take small bites. I kneel on the tire (knee pads help here too) and like the 10, 12 and 2 o'clock positions. Get them all wedged in between the tire and rime before leveraging any of them, then do one at a time (very difficult to get additional irons wedged in after you've stretched the tire with one of them). Just like with a bicycle wheel, if you feel like you hare having to use too much strength to move the levers, you're doing something wrong. With a bicycle you'd probably snap the levers. With a motorcycle you'll damage your rims. Try smaller bites.

+1 on using something to protect the rims. I use cut up shampoo bottles. You'll be glad you did.

About breaking the bead, just deflating it, rolling the bike a little, then walking on the tire might be enough to do it. Much easier than tubeless tires.

To see a video of someone making it look ridiculously easy, check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AerHAYs435s&feature=related

Good luck!
 
Breaking the bead: if worse comes to worst, block the wheel to protect the rims/disk, put it under the car/truck and starting jacking up the car with the jack on the bead. I've only had to do that once.
 
Success!

So I had some time this morning while waiting for the gas company to show up for their every 3rd year inspection.

Two local auto parts place and two Moto shops didn't have tire lube, so I went with 1:1 Dawn + Water.

Breaking the bead was no problem at all, I just stood on it and it came free.

The first bead wasn't a big deal either, I guess a lot of bicycle experience helped.

The second bead was a little tougher, the videos made it look easier than it was.

Getting the new tube in was a little of a pain, but I not ready to buy one of those chain things they sell.

Biggest hassle was getting the back wheel on and off without knocking the bike over. If there's a better way to do this, I'm all ears, as I have a new ding in the tank and a lot of fuel spilled on the drive :(

Thanks for the pointers,
Justin
 
If no one has said this in the previous answers...the easiest way I know of to get the back wheel off is to deflate the rear tire somewhat. Then, you should have ample room to squeeze it out past the muffler (towards the rear, of course). The last time I was mounting my rear wheel, I had trouble squeezing it past the muffler, then I remembered that the dealer had put the air in. I let some air out and it slid right past the muffler.
 
another tip!!

So I had some time this morning while waiting for the gas company to show up for their every 3rd year inspection.

Two local auto parts place and two Moto shops didn't have tire lube, so I went with 1:1 Dawn + Water.

Breaking the bead was no problem at all, I just stood on it and it came free.

The first bead wasn't a big deal either, I guess a lot of bicycle experience helped.

The second bead was a little tougher, the videos made it look easier than it was.

Getting the new tube in was a little of a pain, but I not ready to buy one of those chain things they sell.

Biggest hassle was getting the back wheel on and off without knocking the bike over. If there's a better way to do this, I'm all ears, as I have a new ding in the tank and a lot of fuel spilled on the drive :(

Thanks for the pointers,
Justin


If you remove the front tire first then let bike sit on the center stand and front forks you can remove the rear tire. Bike looks kinda funny with it's A$$ up in the air like that.
Just a thought if you do not have a lift where you can drop the rear tire through an access port built-in.:nyah
 
Doh!

If you remove the front tire first then let bike sit on the center stand and front forks you can remove the rear tire. Bike looks kinda funny with it's A$$ up in the air like that.
Just a thought if you do not have a lift where you can drop the rear tire through an access port built-in.:nyah

Thanks, this would have made things a whole lot easier.
 
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