'84 R100RT Leaking between cases..

Just when you think the plan is comming together... To actually ride to the Rally..

Got the new lower left and tank cleaned up and painted. Letting the paint cure a bit more, bought the POR15 kit for the inside of the tank. Thought I had a leak from one of the sensors, started cleaning up the rest of the of the bike looking at the back of the tranny and started scraping off Crud. Finally got into a position I could see where it seems to be coming from, between the tranny and motor. The stuff dosn't smell like transmision fluid. Havn't used a bunch of oil. Trany is clean and full.

Just guessing Rear Main?

Can one be replaced with the motor in the frame? Whats the easy way? The Clymer is

Pics to follow if I can learn how to use the camera and get pics on the site.

Just did on my /6. Pulled the rear wheel and swingarm, then the trans. Put the bike on center stand first, use a tie-down strap around front wheel to centerstand. Since you'll be removing the clutch to remove the flywheel, check it's condition. You'll need two special tools, one for replacing the seal and one for aligning the clutch disc. Also you'll be replacing the oil pump cover O-ring, right?

manicmechanic said:

Just did on my /6. Pulled the rear wheel and swingarm, then the trans. Put the bike on center stand first, use a tie-down strap around front wheel to centerstand. Since you'll be removing the clutch to remove the flywheel, check it's condition. You'll need two special tools, one for replacing the seal and one for aligning the clutch disc. Also you'll be replacing the oil pump cover O-ring, right?

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VERY important -- before removing the flywheel, block the front of the crankshaft to prevent it from shifting forward, allowing the crank shim to come off its pin.

OK I'll bite

mneblett said:

VERY important -- before removing the flywheel, block the front of the crankshaft to prevent it from shifting forward, allowing the crank shim to come off its pin.

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How?

RAColeman said:

How?

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Lots of different ways -- all based on the general idea of sticking something in front of the alternator rotor bolt between the bolt and the front engine cover and then using the cover's mounting bolts to lightly apply a compressive force against the nose of the alternator (which is mounted directly on the front end of the crank).

Light bulb

Just came on, you could see it in my eyes if you were here.

Got a Favorite parts place, that will use USPS?

Got the camera, know how to get the pics into the computer, will try tonight to get some on line.

Off to work on the Truck.

manicmechanic said:

Just did on my /6. Pulled the rear wheel and swingarm, then the trans.

Click to expand...

Same here, but didn't pull the wheel or swingarm; just the swingarm pivots.

Put the bike on center stand first, use a tie-down strap around front wheel to centerstand.

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+1. You wouldn't want it collapsing/sitting down on you!

Since you'll be removing the clutch to remove the flywheel, check it's condition.

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+1. "While you're in there." Someone will say you need a special tool for these, too. If you can find the right bolts (slightly longer than originals (to let the clutch spring relax), insert them in 3 of the flywheel bolt holes and back out the rest, then back these out.

You'll need two special tools, one for replacing the seal and one for aligning the clutch disc.

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It is possible to get away with neither, as was my case, but special tools would probably make things easier. A special tool is required for holding the flywheel steady while loosening the flywheel bolts, too.

crazydrummerdude said:

I made a flywheel-stay-put thing.

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Also you'll be replacing the oil pump cover O-ring, right?

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+1. "While you're in there."

mneblett said:

VERY important -- before removing the flywheel, block the front of the crankshaft to prevent it from shifting forward, allowing the crank shim to come off its pin.

Click to expand...

+1. VERY IMPORTANT.

RAColeman said:

How?

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Oh, there's a special tool for that, too.. but:

crazydrummerdude said:

crazydrummerdude's patented broken 2x4" chunk taped to the rotor..

..with the front cover replaced, of course.

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If you want to do it the expensive way, with the special (aftermarket) tools from a certain popular vendor, it's $44.50 for rear main seal tool, $32.50 for clutch alignment tool, $8 for crankshaft blocking tool, $14 for flywheel hold-down tool, and $12 for clutch removal bolts. That's $111 of tools for a job you do once per decade/life(?). See if you can contact some local airheads to borrow someone elses and get some tips along the way.

In my case, my rear main seal installation tool is part of a used Fram PH5 oil filter for my truck, my clutch alignment tool is my eyes, my crankshaft blocking tool is a piece of 2x4, my flywheel tool is a z shaped piece of steel plate I bent and cut two holes in, and my clutch removal bolts are $1 worth of long bolts from the hardware store that woodnsteel cut down with a die grinder while in my shop one day.

I think CDD is referring to cycleworks.net. But the rear main seal tool $34 when purchased by itself. They also have tools to hold the flywheel, and to align the clutch parts. As noted here before, many people do fine without these tools though.

your supposed to use new flywheel bolts too, but many people dont
also you have another o-ring on the flywheel other then the main seal,
on models with the bolts drilled through the crank, I put just a wee dab of gasket sealer on the threads of the flywheel bolts
read that someplace, so I did it

some of the tools can be had cheap on fleabay such as the seal installer and the centering tool. think 2 yeqars ago, I paid less then 30 for the pair,

The way she looks now.

The F-350, has 8 new gloplugs, plug relay, inside harness, starter and clean oil.

The Bike starts again tomarrow. This is what it looks like now.

Sometimes you eat the bear, it was good. Don't know if the bike job is gonna get me or not.

How do ya get more than 1 attachment?

Ok heres another.

another

Bob -

To get more than one attachment per post, you have to put the images on another image hosting site and then provide the links to them in your post. Try right clicking on someone else's post with multiple images and look at the properties of the image. You'll see something like photobucket, smugmug, flickr, etc. There's even a free hosting site, http://tinypic.com/, but don't know how that might work with multiple links.

might as well remove the pulse air system at this time(you have most of it off already) and don't forget the o-ring that seals the oil pump cover, they can leak better than than a rear main seal... read up on spline lube also your all the way there for that...

Then sometimes ya just get lucky.

It sure looks like the tranny was the culprit.

Looking at the Clutch

Some sooty substance, but not much else. Never noticed the cluch slipping.

RAColeman said:

It sure looks like the tranny was the culprit.

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You're in this far -- there's no way I would leave there without doing the rear main and oil pump cover seals.

$0.02 from the peanut gallery!

Flywheel

I'm inclined to do all the seals in the tranny, clean and ckeck the clutch, leave the flywheel and other seals alone, and put it back together.

I see nothing comming from the area of the main or the oil pump.

What you guys think?

RAColeman said:

I see nothing comming from the area of the main or the oil pump.

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All that black gunk on the internal sides of the engine case next to the flywheel is just from the transmission? That'd be odd.

But, in your defense, there is apparently no oil/gunk directly under where the main seal and oil pump o-ring go.. but, I'd dig a little deeper at this stage.. with proper precaution.

Well, you've taken it apart once, so you know how to do it again. It's one of those "as long as you're here," jobs.