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Thread: Need help with clutch perch replacement

  1. #1
    bluesguitar
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    Need help with clutch perch replacement

    The clutch perch on my 73 R75/5 has a stripped mirror thread. I have a good mirror for that side and recently picked up a perch with good mirror threads but I have to swap it out.

    I'm figuring this shouldn't be too complicated but the process is really not well described in my Clymer or Haynes manual...

    I'm assuming it's a good time to put in a new clutch cable as it looks original and the action of the clutch lever is a little difficult. It looks like I can get a new one for about $30.

    Anything I should know before I start taking things apart?

    Thanks,

    Mitch

  2. #2
    Registered User ebeeby's Avatar
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    There is a little, um, triangular thingey doofer that is often lost in this process. It is the thing that as the two halves are tightened up is forced down upon the handle bar to make the perch tight to the bar. When you take the old one off, it will fall out on the floor so watch for it. IF it is missing, order a new one with the clutch cable.

    If you are removing the hand grip, use WD40 or some other solvent and a screwdriver to get under the rubber hand grip to break the glue free from the bar. Once everything is off, clean the bar and inside of the hand grip with a non-residue solvent like acrysol. To re-apply the hand grip, spray the inside with hairspray (any cheapo hairspray will do), slide the grip on and let dry for 10 or 20 minutes. I use hairspray for all the rubbers (grips, foot pegs etc) and they never slip.

    As far as the cable goes, you MUST make sure the handle end barrel is seated in the handle properly and pivots. add a little lube to this pivot. If it does NOT pivot correctly, the cable will "hinge" and the barrel and break very very quickly.

    You want to have some free play - can't remember the amount is it 1/8th inch ? sounds about right - at the handle. I like to screw the handle adjustor 2/3rds of the way in and then take up the final slack with it so it ends up about the middle.

    While you're in there. it might be a good time to disassemble the activating lever at the back of the tranny to clean and lube.
    1973 R75/5

  3. #3
    bluesguitar
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    Clymer is telling me I have to pull the gas tank if I want to replace the clutch cable at the same time I'm doing the perch?

    I'm assuming I should disconnect the battery and then detatch the clutch cable at the lower arm.

    At the point, it looks like I'd take the electronics down, which is basically taking off the horn/high beam switch and letting that dangle.

    Then I can pull off the grip and the perch, and it looks like the lever comes out by just removing the screw?

    Then just reverse everything?

    Mitch

  4. #4
    TGHSMITH
    Guest
    if you have access to an aircompressor , use a small tipped air gun nozzle to remove the grip quickly, depends on the cable routing weather the tank needs to be removed, checking all the conections under there isn't the worst thing to do,,,

  5. #5
    Registered User mneblett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluesguitar View Post
    Clymer is telling me I have to pull the gas tank if I want to replace the clutch cable at the same time I'm doing the perch?

    I'm assuming I should disconnect the battery and then detatch the clutch cable at the lower arm.

    At the point, it looks like I'd take the electronics down, which is basically taking off the horn/high beam switch and letting that dangle.

    Then I can pull off the grip and the perch, and it looks like the lever comes out by just removing the screw?

    Then just reverse everything?

    Mitch
    There is no reason to remove the tank on a /5 for this job (other than to protect it from accidental slips/drops of tools, etc.), and no reason to disconnect the battery.

    Three steps:

    1. Disconnect clutch cable (release at tranny arm, then remove from clutch lever).

    2. Release left switch (remove set screws, pull switch forward out of its socket to accesss the single screw holding the socket to the perch).

    3. Remove the perch (remove grip, loosen pinch bolt and slide perch off the bar, chase the little triangular bit that you just dropped ).

    BTDT on the wife's '73 R75/5. Easy job.

    HTH,
    Mark
    Mark Neblett
    Fairfax, VA
    #32806

  6. #6
    bluesguitar
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    That's helpful. I'll contact you if there is any type of explosion...
    Mitch

  7. #7
    Registered User mneblett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluesguitar View Post
    That's helpful. I'll contact you if there is any type of explosion...
    Mitch
    No worries -- as long as your next of kin don't know about this thread.
    Mark Neblett
    Fairfax, VA
    #32806

  8. #8
    bluesguitar
    Guest
    Finally got around to doing the swap. Worked great! Thanks to all.

    Mitch

  9. #9
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    I'm late, as usual. Was there a TTD on your bike? Most have been lost years ago.

    There is a little, um, triangular thingey doofer that is often lost in this process. It is the thing that as the two halves are tightened up is forced down upon the handle bar to make the perch tight to the bar. When you take the old one off, it will fall out on the floor so watch for it. IF it is missing, order a new one with the clutch cable.
    Photobucket

    See this article: http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/perch/index.htm

    With thanks to Duane Ausherman
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  10. #10
    bluesguitar
    Guest
    Sorry for being clueless but what's a TTD?

  11. #11
    Rally Rat
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    Triangular Thingey Doofer.

    Ride Safe
    Mike

  12. #12
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Ha, Ha...I see where Duane call's the knob in the lower corner a "cruise control". I doubt seriously that's what its intended purpose is/was. I think a main purpose is to provide a means to hold the throttle in a given position during carb synching. I suppose it functions as a cruise control by allowing the introduction of some drag on the throttle. I can just see someone reaching down there to loosen the drag to deal with an upcoming traffic situation!!
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  13. #13
    Bill Burke
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    Kurt-
    The "cruise control" actually works pretty well. Not sophisticated, but it works. Once you get accustomed to it, the reach is no big deal and adjustments on the road can be made safely. Even under the most "torqued" circumstances, the nylon "drag" piece making contact with the bar can easily be overcome for a required slow, stop or any other maneuver. At least that's been my experience.

  14. #14
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Bill -

    I understand what you're saying. I haven't touched that knob on my /7 for years. I guess I found a nice spot to create the right amount of drag. On top of that, I have one of those throttle locks that I can easily snick on and off to help rest my right hand on longish stretches of straight road. So I guess I have mine dialed in the way I like it.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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