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Oil Change KGT 1300

Extraction results - the green arrow shows the amount of oil extracted.

Approximately 2L which is the content of the oil tank
 

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Removing the Oil Filter

Here is the second deviation from the standard BMW process.

While BMW requires you to remove the bracket shown below, I did not do that because there are two oil filters that can be used.

The "short" one p/n 11 42 7 673 541 does not require you to remove the bracket (that is the one shown)

The "long" one p/n 11 42 7 721 779 does require, and what I did was just to loosen the three bolts enough to gain enough space to spin on the filter, will need to do the same when you remove it

For reference - the 3 T45 bolts to remove are shown*

If you do need to remove/loosen them you will also need a 13mm wrench tha holds the bolts in place on the back side.
 

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Placement of the oil filter wrench - obtained from Max BMW
 

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Removing the filter - I use a 17mm open end wrench to spin off the filter with the wrench.

Shop Tip - I placed some aluminum foil to guide the waste oil that will drain out of the filter to the drain pan instead of onto the exhaust pipes.
 

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Once the majority of the oil has come out of the filter, remove the filter and clean off the oil on the mounting area for the new filter.

Shop Tip - to facilitate the removal of the filter lifting the it up is better than trying to get it to drop down and out. Also on installation of the new filter it drops down and in

Please note from the image below that the rubber o-ring from the original filter stayed stuck on the engine block.
 

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Remove the O ring (if stuck on the engine casing) and after wiping the area clean, spin on the new filter

The torque required is 11 Nm (8.1 ft-lbs) - I just put it on hand tight
 

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Filling the Oil (3 Stages)

At this point the engine block has been drained, the oil tank has been drained and the oil filter has been removed and replaced.

The refilling process is done in 3 stages:

Stage 1 brings the oil tank to register full on the dip stick - Don't forget to put the screen back in if you used an extraction device

Stage 2 fills the engine by turning on the motor and running it for 20 seconds

Stage 3 completes the fill by putting in the rest of the recommended oil amount then going for a short test ride and checking the oil level and adding additional oil (if needed) to bring the level to recommended requirement.
 

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Pour in some oil and then check the level.

Do Not screw in the dip stick measure with the threads disengaged
 

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The filling process continues.

The green arrow shows the current oil level, the yellow arrow is where we need to be.

At this point about 2.5L of oil have been put in
 

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STAGE 2 - Now that the oil tank is at the correct level, turn the engine on for 20 seconds.

STAGE 3 - After the bike has been shut off, put in the balance of the required oil - to total 3.5L and go for a test ride.

You can ride the bike with out the lower covers.

I went for a quick spin around the block.

Once you return from the road test - check the oil level - and verify that it shows full, add as neccesary.

At this point the oil change is done and you can put the lower panels back on in the opposite order that they were removed.
 
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