Gerbing Permanent Controller Install DIY

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Securing the power side:

The photo illustrates tying off the power cable to some wiring I'd added to the bike earlier. If you're working on a stock bike, I'd suggest securing it to the brake lines - with not-too-tight tie-wraps

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Clean up of the power wiring

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NOTE - as I already had a power connection I plan to splice into it

Connecting the power

Please note that by cutting into the original harness you will void the Controller warranty

For a stock install you have 2 options:

1. If you do not have a fuse panel of any kind follow the manufacturer's instructions to connect directly to the battery
2. If you have a fuse panel connect to it at the appropriate current range (fuse), remember this device already comes fused with 15A fuse

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Once the power line has been routed I connected the orignal cable from the Centech to the new wire.

Part of the process includes cutting out the newly supplied in-line fuse (as I will be utilizing the previous contact point on the Centech panel (15A))

Shop Tip 1 - add a small piece of shrink tube to identify the power side of the wire.

Shop Tip 2 - pre-positioned a piece of shrink tube before crimping the ends together

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The wires crimped - now to shrink over to provide some weather protection.

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"Hot" side completed

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Same thing with the ground.

No need to identify the wire, just have a piece of shrink-tubing in place prior to the crimp installation.

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The more you add to your fuse panel, the messier it gets.

It is good practice to clean it up at the time of any new farkle install.

Here the grounds and power are organized.

On the left hand side (towards headlight) is the positive side, towards the gas tank are the negative (ground) sides. This is totally dependent on the type of fuse panel you have and where/how you located it.

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Power and Ground completed.

Let's mount the controller.....

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The circled area will be the location where the adjustable controller will be mounted.

I selected this area because it is a short and quick reach to the controller.

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The adjustable controller.

Note the nut, washer, washer, nut set up - this is explained in the instuctions.

Note that the knurled knob pulls off with light pressure but retains well on the adjustment shaft

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As the wires on the LED were moved around I noted that there was a small gap of the wire to the conformal coating on the Printed Circuit Board (PCB).

To ensure weather protection I dropped a little bit of super glue to seal the openings.

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This is a how I set up the alignment to drill the hole for the adjustment shaft and the hole for the LED.

There are many different ways to approach this and shown in the following sequence is what I did.

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In the location of where I wanted to put the controller adjuster I encountered an issue that the mounting pin of the panel was directly below the hole to be drilled.

To address that the pin location was identified and a new location hole was selected.

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Shown is the new location