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Camera suggestions

Texpaul

Lost again
Well, it's time for another one of those annoying camera suggestion questions.

I'm looking for suggestions for a new camera to take on bike trips. I currently have a Sony WSC 120 (4X zoom, 7.2 MP, 1080 HD). It took great pics till I dropped it one time too many so now I'm looking to replace it.

I think I would like something with more zoom, say at least 10X. I would consider more but my research seems to indicate that the 20X and 24X cameras have issues with picture quality at higher zooms.

I'm clumsy so image stabilization would help me take better pics (fewer blurry pics?).

Something with at least 7 mp so they can be enlarged. 1080HD would be nice.

Obviously, as small as possible, for space considerations and as rugged as possible (note fate of last camera). It needs to be easy to use because I'm not too smart either.

I would prefer to keep the cost under $350.

Please feel free to correct any misconceptions I may have regarding any of the above requirements and I look forward to your recommendations.
 
I bought one of these a few months back, takes excellent pics and HD video, I am very happy. Has most of what you are looking for, incl stabilization, and has a wide 25mm lens on the low side. Personally I find a wide lens much more useful than a super zoom.

http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-...ix-Digital-Cameras/model.DMC-ZS3S?loomia_si=1

Good reviews on this too.

If you want to check out some camers reviews, try Steve's digicam web site, I find it very helpful.
 
I have a new Cannon D-10 waterproof, shock resistant, cold loving camera.
I am looking forward to wearing it on rainy rides and taking pics.
But in the mean time I'm going to go snorkeling with it in Cancun next week :whistle
 
I have a new Cannon D-10 waterproof, shock resistant, cold loving camera.
I am looking forward to wearing it on rainy rides and taking pics.
But in the mean time I'm going to go snorkeling with it in Cancun next week :whistle

I'll pass on the snorkelingthing, but the D-10 rides well in the rain, takes halfway decent movies, can be operated with a gloved hand, and you can't possibly jam the lens with bugs like my poor Canon D470 (R.I.P.).

As always, YouTube compression artifacts are a killer -- this was taken last fall when I got the D-10.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwbXRcLUVaI
 
I bought one of these...pffog

+1. The Lumix ZS3 is an amazing camera.

Here's a shot my wife took with hers, in the Shaba Reserve, Kenya with the lens fully stretched out (12X):

713156411_5Uwet-M-1.jpg


The Leopard was guarding a Gerenuk which it had just taken, and stached high up in a big tree.

The little Lumix is as capable as my Nikon SLR with Nikkor 200 mm lens.
 
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Although I will add I did go w/ a Nikon D200...

The SLR's in your price range are pretty good if not excellent.
I'd suggest a SLR because you can always add lenses.

Lenses to a camera are what speakers are to a sound system.
Don't cheap out on 'em.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jim_popper/458945067/" title="My Ear. by GrafikFeat, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/458945067_fd91efab3f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="685" alt="My Ear." /></a>
 
Camera Suggestions

Here's my take on motorcycle cameras. I think they really fall into three categories. Nothing beats a DSLR, but they are hard to carry and most have to get off the bike to use them. Another category is a small easy to operate with gloves always ready camera. That could be any simple point and shoot, but Gail talks about above the one that wins the prize for best in the www.dpreview.com shoot out for waterproof cameras. I have used a small Canon for some time for this but am ready to jump to waterproof and will probably buy the same one. I ride in some long distance rallies and waterproof would be a time saver. The third category of camera is the large pocket camera with better optics, image stabilization and a longer lens. I use a slightly older model of the Panasonic Lumix mentioned above. It will take incredible pictures, most could not tell from DSLR and is more portable. A DSLR can still do more, and I love mine, but a camera at the ready always beats one that you can't get to. By the way I carry my small camera on a strap around my neck (tucked into my collar so it can't grab on to anything if I have an inadvertent get off), and even had small pocket made onto my new riding coat to slide it into. I always read www.dpreview.com before buying any digital camera.
So the perfect camera doesn't exist. But the perfect camera for different situations does.
 
Quick Compare.

So I get home form work...
Kick back on the couch and look up to see the subject of this comparison.
Just remember...
There are soooo many cameras out there and color/quality is completely subjective.
End result is also a thought to consider.
Will it be mainly for online use?
Will you print any?

Is it for 'snapshots' or serious work?

It took a few months for me to decide.
Within that few months new models of what I was researching appeared.
That worked for me as the earlier version dropped in price.

One word works for your situation: Research.

Anyway, here is that quick comparison I mentioned at the start.
Both are Nikon.
Both are 10 MegaPixel.
One is a DSLR and the other a Point and shoot.
Both are at maximum focal length.
I tried to "stretch it out" but they wouldn't budge. :laugh

Any way... Go look at DP Review. You'll spend months there.
 
I tried DLSR on the bike and they're too big and klunkie for my taste. I much prefer the high zoom Sony HX-1, H50, or similar offering from Canon.
 
here's another recently updated thread..

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=32708

personally I really like the idea of one of the totally water-weather/shock proof ones now available, rainy day shots can be awesome esp. one including your bike when you're out riding. People who see the shots will soon know just how crazy we really are! :laugh

RM
 
Not to hijack this thread, but, tommcgee, I checked out your video. How do you mount your camera on your bike?
 
I think I got the mount from Aerostich. It's not a perfect solution, but the guys I ride with NEVER stop and I wouldn't get any trip pictures without it. For video, the less the camera weighs, the better.

I'd strongly recommend using a waterproof camera with a mount like this, more for bugs than water. I destroyed a Canon A470 and a Canon G10 lens mechanism with bugs. That's why I bought the Canon D10.

2935236327_1526590ced_o.jpg


2936092132_2879e6a238_o.jpg


2935236143_03365eb425_o.jpg
 
Another solution...

Shoots stills at a pre-determined interval or video.
Comes in a waterproof housing.

The HeroCam. Nice results.

Listed/discussed a million places on here.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jim_popper/3715104508/" title="HeroCam w/ Ram Mount. by GrafikFeat, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2562/3715104508_1d4e30a121_b.jpg" width="1024" height="687" alt="HeroCam w/ Ram Mount." /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jim_popper/3715105162/" title="Over All View. by GrafikFeat, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3509/3715105162_bf1fd3a048.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Over All View." /></a>
 
Another solution...

Shoots stills at a pre-determined interval or video.
Comes in a waterproof housing.

The HeroCam. Nice results.

Listed/discussed a million places on here.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jim_popper/3715104508/" title="HeroCam w/ Ram Mount. by GrafikFeat, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2562/3715104508_1d4e30a121_b.jpg" width="1024" height="687" alt="HeroCam w/ Ram Mount." /></a>

Interesting, I have looking at a weather-proof digital that has a feature for timed exposures that you set to be taken every 10 seconds up 5 minute intervals. Less bulk than a camera with a water-proof housing so it slips nicely into your pocket at the end of the ride.
Can't find the info on the brand at the moment but if I do, I'll post it.
RM
 
My most important feature

It's hard to even contemplate the variety of cameras out there for sale. Regardless of any other feature, size, zoom power, and so forth, the one most important feature for me is image stabilization (IS). One brand now calls it anti-shake.

If you are going to take hand held photos, it's your only chance to be sure of sharp images.

Optical IS tends to be better than digital IS. Some models offer both. For me, Optical IS is a minimum requirement.

DSLRs offer much better control of depth of field, and much better image 'depth.' They are generally better in low light, too. For that, you pay with a large and heavier camera. A DSLR is almost impossible to use while riding.

Another feature that I find important for shooting from a moving bike is a wider angle lens. Lots of cameras offer huge zoom ranges, but the widest angle setting is still fairly narrow. A wide angle lens (like 25-28 mm equivalent (to a 35 mm camera)) when added to IS will allow some fairly sharp shots while riding.

Even if you just shoot people on the ground, the wider angle lens allows you to get closer. This makes the flash much more effective. Most small point-and-shoot cameras have pretty wimpy flashes. They are not much beyond 5 feet away. With a wider angle lens, you can shoot the same portrait at 3 feet, and the flash is effective, even, and under control.

If you attempt to shoot video from a moving bike, you especially want IS and a <28mm equiv. lens. That's what makes the Hero camera so well liked.

Oh, and waterproof. If you simply hold the camera, and have a place like your tank bag to stow it, fine. But a solidly mounted camera is a rain magnet. Murphy lives. You don't want to have to pull over and stop if it starts to sprinkle, or worse.

SO, recapping MY opinion: DSLRs for high quality, control, image depth. Not for hand held shooting in motion on a bike. IS is a minimum requirement unless every shot uses a tripod or unipod. Buy a camera with a wider angle zoom lens, 28mm or less. Frosting on the cake: additional optical viewfinder, or an LCD screen you can read in direct sun. Slim and light for your shirt pocket. Battery life you can live with. A camera you can shoot without looking at it (while riding).

Oh, and widely standardized SDHC capacity, not non-standard memory cards like Sony memory sticks. Even Sony has abandoned them.

If I had my druthers, I'd carry a small, thin, wide angle, IS camera in my pocket.
I'd have a DSLR (optional) with 28mm - >80mm in my top case.

And extra batteries and memory cards for both.

Oh, and one more thing: Before you go to all the expense of a decent camera, and the trouble of carrying it with you, make sure there's someone (possibly more) that might, just by chance, want to see your photos. That someone may be you.

I quit carrying a camera unless I'm doing a photojournalism piece. Nobody wants to be bored by my photos. I'd rather make an effort to remember what gold Aspens looked like. YMMV.

Most of my pictures just use words.

Jim

 


Most of my pictures just use words.

Jim


And at THAT you are a virtuoso, Jim!

My only requirement is that you have it with you. That means small, easy to carry and tough. Most cameras are much smarter than us users. So, my advice is to get to know what your camera does well, check out those special settings, and do lots of that.

Lots of that gives you lots of lessons. And memories that make you sMile!

Voni
doing that
 
I must say... Watching some ones bike videos is kinda like watching porn...
Yer sittin' there viewing something you'd rather be doing. :whistle

It's also like watching someones home movies of their kids school play... ZZZzzz... :hungover
 
It's hard to even contemplate the variety of cameras out there for sale. Regardless of any other feature, size, zoom power, and so forth, the one most important feature for me is image stabilization (IS). One brand now calls it anti-shake.

If you are going to take hand held photos, it's your only chance to be sure of sharp images.

Optical IS tends to be better than digital IS. Some models offer both. For me, Optical IS is a minimum requirement.

DSLRs offer much better control of depth of field, and much better image 'depth.' They are generally better in low light, too. For that, you pay with a large and heavier camera. A DSLR is almost impossible to use while riding.

Another feature that I find important for shooting from a moving bike is a wider angle lens. Lots of cameras offer huge zoom ranges, but the widest angle setting is still fairly narrow. A wide angle lens (like 25-28 mm equivalent (to a 35 mm camera)) when added to IS will allow some fairly sharp shots while riding.

Even if you just shoot people on the ground, the wider angle lens allows you to get closer. This makes the flash much more effective. Most small point-and-shoot cameras have pretty wimpy flashes. They are not much beyond 5 feet away. With a wider angle lens, you can shoot the same portrait at 3 feet, and the flash is effective, even, and under control.

If you attempt to shoot video from a moving bike, you especially want IS and a <28mm equiv. lens. That's what makes the Hero camera so well liked.

Oh, and waterproof. If you simply hold the camera, and have a place like your tank bag to stow it, fine. But a solidly mounted camera is a rain magnet. Murphy lives. You don't want to have to pull over and stop if it starts to sprinkle, or worse.

SO, recapping MY opinion: DSLRs for high quality, control, image depth. Not for hand held shooting in motion on a bike. IS is a minimum requirement unless every shot uses a tripod or unipod. Buy a camera with a wider angle zoom lens, 28mm or less. Frosting on the cake: additional optical viewfinder, or an LCD screen you can read in direct sun. Slim and light for your shirt pocket. Battery life you can live with. A camera you can shoot without looking at it (while riding).

Oh, and widely standardized SDHC capacity, not non-standard memory cards like Sony memory sticks. Even Sony has abandoned them.

If I had my druthers, I'd carry a small, thin, wide angle, IS camera in my pocket.
I'd have a DSLR (optional) with 28mm - >80mm in my top case.

And extra batteries and memory cards for both.

Oh, and one more thing: Before you go to all the expense of a decent camera, and the trouble of carrying it with you, make sure there's someone (possibly more) that might, just by chance, want to see your photos. That someone may be you.

I quit carrying a camera unless I'm doing a photojournalism piece. Nobody wants to be bored by my photos. I'd rather make an effort to remember what gold Aspens looked like. YMMV.

Most of my pictures just use words.

Jim


I'd concur with most of that except that with a DSLR, just like the old SLR's in normal outdoor lighting with anything under a 200MM telephoto lens you can take very clear and sharp pictures without IS. One of the big advantages of a SLR is the fact that they have a high detail, easy to see thru viewfinder and when you are holding the camera up to your eye, pressed against your face, your body is effectively acting as a three-point tripod, your two arms and face. Even the way you hold it can make a differance, a longer lens requires that you hold the lens itself with one hand while the other is on the body working the controls. Its with longer lens (or close-up i.e. 18 inches or less) where the need for a tripod comes in (without P&S). With P&S cameras since you are holding them at arms length and that introduces a lot more motion since you simply can't hold them as steady. There are also several types of IS out now with many cameras coming with 2 or three modes for stills, panning or turned off.

My Nikon D80 does not have IS and gets great sharp shots, though it does partly come from tons of practice over the years. I do have an IS 300MM telephoto and on that the IS really helps esp. when I start to really crop the image but it also weighs in a good 20% more than my non IS 300, that can take its toll on an all day outing. That equipment get heavy as the day goes on and you have no place to stash it!

One other factor people tend to overlook is start-up time and Auto focus speed. Some cameras are pretty slow with the auto focus and that can lead to missed shots since the time between pressing the shutter and when the picture is actually taken makes all the difference between capturing that "moment" or missing it. Its amazing how quickly things change, an expression or a certain pose, or with action shots its down to mere moments a half second may not seem like much but when shooting it can make a Huge difference! Something we don't realize until we try to capture it. I never buy a camera I can't have some face time with. Ten minutes play time can tell you loads about how it acts and reacts to your input.


RM
 
Three waterproof, dust-proof and shockproof (and even temperature resistant to cold) cameras I've been looking at are..

The Olympus Stylus tough

41a4miP9v3L._SL160_AA115_.jpg


the Pentax Optio W series

41tOhXPmVgL._SL160_AA115_.jpg


Fuji FinePix Z33WP

41cNCSQKlKL._SL160_AA115_.jpg


all have some nice features with the Fuji having the setting to take pic at given intervals, that would be great on a bike. set to a fairly short interval and you could make a fun time-delayed mini movie.

There are also some inexpensive options like a water proof clear camera bag like the one below, flexible so you still work the controls and allows for the lens of a standard P&S to adjust

41kkK9BxxDL._SL160_AA115_.jpg


Of course that will degrade the image quality some since the lens is shooting thru the bag material and that area over the lens could get scratched up over time, but at 20 some bux not a big replacement expense for the protection it gives.

RM
 
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