globalrider
Alps Adventurer
dlearl said:Alex, are you certain what you drained out of your rear end isn't a "break-in" forumula? One of the reasons that 600 mile check is so important.
The oil that drained from the rear wheel drive of both my 2003 and 2004 GS Adventure contained molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) additive as far as I'm concerned. No doubt in my mind unless another additive makes oil that black and I mean pitch black. I'm used to seeing it because that is what my hypoid gear oil looks like coming out of the transmission and rear drive of my R100 GS that I mix DC M Gear Guard in with.
At the upcoming show, I will ask BMW what the story is.
As for lubricants, I use what is recommended...period. Why second guess those that know unless there is an issue as there is with airhead transmissions...ones without the circlip...the reason I use an additive.
As for engine oils, I use motorcycle specific oils, but non-synthetic. Being an EC oil isn't an issue since we run a dry clutch, but there are other "ingredients" in MC specific oils that do make a difference over the long haul. I will use a synthetic if going on a long tour if I don't want to have to do an oil change enroute.
NOTE: Although I don't use MolySlip products, they state:
Molyslip Manual Transmission Supplement can be used with any mineral oil (traditional motor oil), synthetic oil or synthetic/mineral blends. For best results, add Molyslip Manual Transmission Supplement at each oil change, however you don't need to change the oil before adding. Just don't overfill.
Molyslip Manual Transmission Supplement should NOT be used in transmissions using a wet clutch system (found on many motorcycles), in automatic transmissions, in manual transmissions using a glycol based fluid or on limited slip differentials.