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air pulse stuff

C

criminaldesign

Guest
i was bumming around in the garage. looking for something to do so I twisted on the pipe connections to the cylinder. what do you know, with little effort it twisted right off. now i had something to do, i preceded to gut the airbox. i kept the vacuum lines from the carbs plugged and tucked under the cover for the time being. checked with Fastenal for plugs but no go, ordered through Holt, should be in by wednesday.
 
I've got the repair kit for this problem from Bobs. I just can't bring myself to wrench them and potentially strip the heads.
 
Why not give them a try, gently? You might surprise yourself - mine came out so easily they must have been overly loose to begin with.
 
Why not give them a try, gently? You might surprise yourself - mine came out so easily they must have been overly loose to begin with.

I messed with them over a year ago and they didn't want to budge.

This time they twisted right out. Sword in the stone stuff going on here.
 
tried both warm and cold first time around. nothing.

This time it was definitely cold (bike, garage and me) and they slipped right out like it was nothing.

yeah, mine seemed "stuck" until i disconnected the pipes at the air box and bent them forward. as soon as i started doing that they magically loosened up.
 
I debated on removing the whole shootin match from mine, but ended up just plugging the pipes with ball bearings (I don't mind the look of the tubes etc), but it is noticably nice to not have that 'popping' noise...:)
 
On all three of our bikes, the tubes were loose in the heads and posed no problems removing.

Rather than plugging vacuum lines, etc., the carb vacuum ports are internally threaded and can be plugged with screws for much nicer look. The "connection" of the carbs via the lines is meaningless.

Of course Euro bikes had airbox lowers without the holes for this system, and I obtained used ones from Motobins for the better look.

I haven't become anal enough to order new top engine covers that would not include the little notches for the vacuum crossover line.
 
Rather than plugging vacuum lines, etc., the carb vacuum ports are internally threaded and can be plugged with screws for much nicer look. The "connection" of the carbs via the lines is meaningless.

I placed an order for the screws. Holt was questioning the parts number and I can't remember if they were included or not. So I kept the vacuum lines around in case. I'll see Wednesday.

Now what about that the 2 valves under the top cover? Is there a point in removing or keeping them on? One hose would be nice from carb to tank and I turn the petcocks off when parked anyway.

I think Jeff addressed this one time.
 
I placed an order for the screws. Holt was questioning the parts number and I can't remember if they were included or not. So I kept the vacuum lines around in case. I'll see Wednesday.

Now what about that the 2 valves under the top cover? Is there a point in removing or keeping them on? One hose would be nice from carb to tank and I turn the petcocks off when parked anyway.

I think Jeff addressed this one time.

Do you mean those solenoids under the starter cover? If so, those solenoids control the fuel vapor recovery system and also shut off fuel to the carbs when the engine is off. These solenoids look to be independent of the pulse air injection system.

I removed all of these items (pulse air system and solenoids) and have not regretted it. The fuel vapor recovery system makes hot starts very difficult. In addition, on a warm day with the bike sitting outside, the vapors collect and are drawn into the engine, thus producing a very rich mixture that will not burn.
 
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