R90/6 valve adjustment question

Hi, all. I note the Clymer manual advises to retorque the heads before adjusting the valves (every 5K miles). Harkening back to my VW working days, I recall this wasn't necessary (after the first break-in). I also don't recall it from other bikes I've owned/maintained. What does anyone knows about the need for this...and does everyone do it? I ask only because this rascal looks an awful lot like half a VW Type I engine...
I'll probably do it anyway, just curious about what's different.

Sagewind1951 said:

Hi, all. I note the Clymer manual advises to retorque the heads before adjusting the valves (every 5K miles). Harkening back to my VW working days, I recall this wasn't necessary (after the first break-in). I also don't recall it from other bikes I've owned/maintained. What does anyone knows about the need for this...and does everyone do it? I ask only because this rascal looks an awful lot like half a VW Type I engine...
I'll probably do it anyway, just curious about what's different.

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I re-torque heads 500 mi after they've been removed (and maybe at 1K), but not at every valve check -- the top forward stud is way too easy to pull out to risk unnecessary re-torquing cycles.

I also don't retorque my head bolts every time I check the valves. What I do, though, is to go ahead and try the torque wrench up to the value (~24-25 ft-lbs)...if it doesn't move, then essentially the torque value hasn't changed from the last time. It's not going to tighten up...loosening is what you're looking for. There are differences in static torque and a sliding torque (the latter is what you want when actually applying the torque), but I figure if it takes the torque value in a static case, it should be fine.

Thanks for the advice

I wondered about that...it was something we had to watch REAL carefully on VWs. I don't need any helicoils in my life at this juncture if I can avoid it. There are no obvious leaks around the pushrod tubes or cylinders, so everything seems to be holding OK.

You only need to re-torque them at 500 miles and again in 2 to 3 thousand after replacing the head gaskets or if you are re-aligning the rocker arms.
Also on motors with high miles the top of the valve stem will become dished. If the rocker seems a little loose after adjusting tighten the ajuster a 1/8 turn more.

Thanks for the replies

I appreciate the good info. I tried the static torque (understanding it's not the same as a dynamic/sliding torque)...nothing moved. Didn't actually even need a valve adj. (none were tight, only 'loose-ness' within normal range, i.e. less than .001". Never hurts to check, though. Take care, Happy New Year, Norm

20774 said:

what i do, though, is to go ahead and try the torque wrench up to the value (~24-25 ft-lbs)

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+1