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Harbor Freight Motorcycle Lift

Sliders for the motorcycle lift



2) When you put the bike on the center stand, it pulls back so far you can't lock the front wheel. I made a slider so that I can put in on the stand, then roll it up to lock the front wheel. I just used those Teflon furniture slides.

-Robo

Thanks for the information on the Harbor Freight coupon in Cycle World. I used that and got a lift for my Christmas gift. Today, I finally put the bike on it. The center stand sits on the removable rear plate and the front tire is only partially in the wheel vise.

Please post some more information on your "slider" modification. A picture would be great.

Also - I need some advice on anchoring the bike to the lift. The K100LT is fully faired and any anchor point on the handle bars causes the strap to be tight across an edge of the fairing. Works ok but will probably wear paint away after a few uses.

Thanks
 
Not sure how well the slider would work with the weight of the LT. I just took a piece of 3/4 ply, about 2 feet by 10 inches, and glued on 4 furniture sliders at the corners. Each slider was about 3 inches in diameter. It worked OK for the RT.

Now, I use the extra chock I added and if I'm not removing tires, I just use the chock to hold the bike. No tiedowns are needed. To remove the tires, I put the bike on far forward so the center stand is not on the plate (I quit using the slider I made). On the stand, the bike is still stable enough that I don't worry about tie downs. I only use one strap on the rear to keep the front wheel elevated so the bike won't tip forward with the wheel off.

 
I might be missing something, but I don't believe the stands are made with you using a centerstand in mind. every time I put mine on a stand, I secure it with straps and leave both stands up.
 
You talking about the lift and not the wheel chock right?

I use the centerstand all the time on all the R's, RT's GS's, K12S and LT's...never an issue.

I only use the tie downs if I am yanking the tranny on on one.

I also just use the front fork pitbull for most front tire changes since the wheel vise can be in the way on some bikes...I have one lift with the vise,another w/out.

Works for me after three plus years anyways
 
I use the center stand, it works fine. The center stand holds a bike firmly on the ground and just as firmly on the lift. The modified wheel chock is convenient and stable as well.
 
Now cut a hole in the floor so you can flush mount your lift!

http://public.fotki.com/Rbertalotto/motorcycle/motorcycle-projects/motorcycle-lift-ins/

I needed to do this as I store a cor over the lift and the lift on the floor was to high.

P1010484-vi.jpg


p10105272-vi.jpg


DSC_0010-vi.jpg
 
That is intense! I see some nice toys in there including the Oxy/Acetylene welder. We need a "show your shop" post. I'm more interested in your tools and shop than the hole!
 
Mod for extending the front wheel stop

I donÔÇÖt use the front wheel vice. I use the center stand. When I roll the bike onto the lift and put it on the center stand the bike pulls back 11 inches which moves the bike back past the center point of the lift. I fabricated this front wheel stop to extend the stop 11 inches forward so that when the bike pulls back when put on the center stand it is more toward the center of the lift.
photo1.gif
 
Mod for extending the front wheel stop

The angle iron on the underside provides reinforcement for the lift surface.
photo2.gif
 
That is a good idea, and very cool. You must be a welder!

I donÔÇÖt use the front wheel vice. I use the center stand. When I roll the bike onto the lift and put it on the center stand the bike pulls back 11 inches which moves the bike back past the center point of the lift. I fabricated this front wheel stop to extend the stop 11 inches forward so that when the bike pulls back when put on the center stand it is more toward the center of the lift.
View attachment 21130
 
No welding necessary

That is a good idea, and very cool. You must be a welder!
Thanks, and I have been a welder by trade, but this mod can be done with a drill and a hack saw. The only welded part is visible from the first picture. I welded the wheel support pieces to the angle iron brackets, but there is no need to weld. Actually, those two pieces could be pop riveted in place.(any thing to keep them from moving around) The strength comes from the angle iron and the support from the bottom piece.
 
Electric Lift

Here are the pics I promised of the HF electric lift.
Lift2traction.jpg

I added traction strips as this lift is not diamond plate.
Lift6raised.jpg

Raised with the wheel chock in place
Lift12bikestrapped.jpg

My RS on the lift. I am going to move the chock further forward as the rear tire is just on the main part of the lift table. The controls come mounted under the front of the table. I moved them up on the deck.
 
Thanks, and I have been a welder by trade, but this mod can be done with a drill and a hack saw. The only welded part is visible from the first picture. I welded the wheel support pieces to the angle iron brackets, but there is no need to weld. Actually, those two pieces could be pop riveted in place.(any thing to keep them from moving around) The strength comes from the angle iron and the support from the bottom piece.

What size angles did you use? How long do they project beyond the bed of the lift? And what did you use to support the front tire between the angles? I am inspired!
 
I don’t use the front wheel vice. I use the center stand. When I roll the bike onto the lift and put it on the center stand the bike pulls back 11 inches which moves the bike back past the center point of the lift. I fabricated this front wheel stop to extend the stop 11 inches forward so that when the bike pulls back when put on the center stand it is more toward the center of the lift.
View attachment 21130

Very cool - I don't use my front stop and as the wheelbase of my wife's ST and my GT differ, this addtion would be great.

Where did you get all the parts?

I can't weld so it would be a bolt on activity

What size angles did you use? How long do they project beyond the bed of the lift? And what did you use to support the front tire between the angles? I am inspired!

+1
 
I have a Miller Matic 180 autoset MIG welder. I taught a 13 year old girl to weld. With the technology today, ANYONE can weld. Gas, TIG, and Stick take practice and skill, but MIG you can learn to weld decently in an hour.
 
More details on the lift table extension

What size angles did you use? How long do they project beyond the bed of the lift? And what did you use to support the front tire between the angles? I am inspired!
wheel stop.gif
Here are some additional notes for the extension project.

Notes
A. Main attachment bolts are 7/16 x 1ÔÇØ

B. Newly drilled holes in the lift table. These also match holes drilled in the bottom support drilled about 3/4ÔÇØ in from the end of the angle iron.

C. This is the original stop that came with the lift. I used it to establish the overall width of the extension.

D. These supports were cut from 1/8ÔÇØ X 3ÔÇØ flat stock. Welding is not necessary. A 1/4ÔÇØ bolt in end of each piece will work just fine. Most anything will work because youÔÇÖre just trying to keep the pieces from moving around.

E. I hammered the leading edge of the angle iron over so that it wouldnÔÇÖt damage the tire if I missed as I roll the wheel onto the extension. (not really necessary)

F. The bottom support is a piece of 1ÔÇØ x 1ÔÇØ x 1/8ÔÇØ angle iron cut to fit between the support rails on the bottom side of the lift. Drill holes to match the width of the extension. See note B
 
I have a Miller Matic 180 autoset MIG welder. I taught a 13 year old girl to weld. With the technology today, ANYONE can weld. Gas, TIG, and Stick take practice and skill, but MIG you can learn to weld decently in an hour.

Just listen for the sizzling bacon sound! The only downer is that with MIG, it is easy to make a weak weld, I think part of the education is learnign what is weak & what is strong, again, about an hour time!
 
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